New pattern: combination suit.

25 files changed, 720 insertions, 1 deletions

diff --git a/source/bibliography/web.bib b/source/bibliography/web.bib
index 5ca93ae..6278ee5 100644
--- a/source/bibliography/web.bib
+++ b/source/bibliography/web.bib
@@ -5,4 +5,11 @@
     url = "https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/womens-tie-pockets",
     note = "Accessed 2022-04-18",
 }
+@misc{2010:combinations
+    author = {FIDM Museum},
+    title = {Combination undergarments},
+    year = {2010},
+    url = "https://fidmmuseum.org/2010/10/combination-undergarments.html",
+    note = "Accessed 2023-05-05",
+}
 
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit
index 7936b21..44b5eea 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit
@@ -33,5 +33,6 @@
         <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/>
         <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/>
         <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/>
+        <m name="leg_waist_side_to_knee" value="60"/>
     </body-measurements>
 </vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst
index 0b97cf8..c4e54a1 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst
@@ -66,6 +66,8 @@ page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`..
 +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
 | Inside Arm           | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``                      |
 +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Drawers Length       | M14 | ``leg_waist_side_to_knee``                   |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
 
 Blocks
 ------
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png
index a0e9ea9..a0e9ea9 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
index 53e77f3..97321bc 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
@@ -8,5 +8,5 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files.
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
 
-   blairs/index
+   blair/index
    cutters/index
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2848667
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c76297d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7b6a91e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cf26b5c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..36a99e4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ea36482
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/07-sewing_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/07-sewing_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ebd554a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/07-sewing_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/08-finishing_back_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/08-finishing_back_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7522b72
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/08-finishing_back_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/09-side_seams.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/09-side_seams.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..66034d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/09-side_seams.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/12-sleevelet_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/12-sleevelet_hem.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9138acc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/12-sleevelet_hem.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/13-sleevelet_attached.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/13-sleevelet_attached.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed0239b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/13-sleevelet_attached.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..746a584
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/15-neck_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/15-neck_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..feaf4c7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/15-neck_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..74c2230
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combination_suit.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combination_suit.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e6b4df3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combination_suit.val
@@ -0,0 +1,395 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.1</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Combination Suit</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit"/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment description="add 1/8 of the difference for waist circumferences above 65 cm" formula="2" name="#dart_distance"/>
+        <increment description="lenght of the dart from the waist down" formula="16" name="#dart_waist_down"/>
+        <increment description="ease around the bust circumference: no more than a couple of cm" formula="2" name="#bust_ease"/>
+        <increment formula="1" name="#front_facing"/>
+        <increment formula="6.35" name="#front_added_depth"/>
+        <increment formula="6.35" name="#back_added_depth"/>
+        <increment formula="1" name="#shoulder_overlap"/>
+        <increment formula="6" name="#sleevelet_depth"/>
+        <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="combination">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="-1.66688" my="-1.64042" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="0.6" lineColor="black" mx="-2.32833" my="0.0264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="3" length="10" lineColor="black" mx="-1.89384" my="-0.926031" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="4" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="-1.89384" my="-0.786778" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="4" id="5" length="armpit_to_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="-2.17235" my="-0.508271" name="A4" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="6" length="neck_circ / 8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="7" length="20" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="8" length="across_back_b / 2 + 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="11" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.82422" my="-1.48304" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="11" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 - 7 + 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="13" length="shoulder_length" lineColor="black" mx="-3.356" my="-0.647525" name="A10a" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="14" length="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="13" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="14" id="15" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="16" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.28637" my="-0.717151" name="A2a" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A12_A5 + 90" color="black" id="17" length1="8" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="16" point4="15" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="20" length="50" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="269.647" basePoint="20" id="21" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="21" id="22" length="15" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="22" id="23" length="armpit_to_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.85432" my="-1.70933" name="B3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="20" id="24" length="neck_circ / 8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B4" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="21" id="25" length="23" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="22" id="26" length="bust_circ / 2 - Line_A4_A7 + #bust_ease / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="24" id="28" length="Line_A12_A5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B11a" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="28" id="29" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B11b" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="26" id="30" mx="1.10707" my="-1.96207" name="B14" secondPoint="23" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="80" angle2="280" color="black" id="31" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="30" point4="26" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="22" id="33" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B12a" secondPoint="21" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="33" id="34" length="across_chest_f / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B12" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="225" color="black" id="35" length1="3" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="26" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="45" angle2="AngleLine_B4_B11a + 90" color="black" id="36" length1="2" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="34" point4="29" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="33" id="37" length="1.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.85432" my="-1.11959" name="B15a" secondPoint="20" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_B4_B11a + 90" angle2="180" color="black" id="38" length1="8" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="28" point4="37" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="270.513" angle2="279.938" center="24" color="black" id="39" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_waist_front - neck_circ / 8" type="simple"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="20" curve="39" id="40" lineColor="black" mx="1.6968" my="-2.63606" name="B17" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="30" id="41" length="CurrentLength - (waist_circ / 2 - Line_A8_A9)" lineColor="black" mx="-3.86358" my="-2.72031" name="Bdarts" secondPoint="40" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="40" id="42" length="#dart_distance" lineColor="black" mx="-0.662147" my="-2.63606" name="Bd1a" secondPoint="30" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="42" id="43" length="Line_B14_Bdarts * 0.4" lineColor="black" mx="-1.67312" my="-3.2258" name="Bd1b" secondPoint="30" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="43" id="44" length="#dart_distance" lineColor="black" mx="-0.662155" my="-2.13057" name="Bd2a" secondPoint="30" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="44" id="45" length="Line_B14_Bdarts * 0.6" lineColor="black" mx="-3.0211" my="-2.38332" name="Bd2b" secondPoint="30" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="42" id="46" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.99914" my="-1.87783" name="Bd1c" secondPoint="43" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="44" id="47" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.914892" my="-2.04632" name="Bd2c" secondPoint="45" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="46" id="48" length="bust_to_waist_f" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Bd1t" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="92" basePoint="47" id="49" length="bust_to_waist_f + 1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="30" id="50" length="-2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C1" secondPoint="40" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="50" id="51" length="waist_circ * 4 / 7" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C6" secondPoint="40" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" firstPoint="51" id="52" length="#front_added_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C5" secondPoint="50" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" firstPoint="50" id="53" length="-leg_waist_side_to_knee" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C" secondPoint="52" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="50" id="54" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C3" secondPoint="53" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" firstPoint="54" id="55" length="leg_waist_side_to_knee * 3 / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C4" secondPoint="53" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="54" id="56" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C4b" secondPoint="55" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" firstPoint="53" id="59" length="waist_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C2b" secondPoint="54" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="53" id="60" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C2" secondPoint="59" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="AngleLine_C3_C4 + 90 + 45" color="black" id="61" length1="10" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="40" point4="55" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_C3_C4 - 90 - 45" angle2="AngleLine_C3_C4 + 90 " color="black" id="62" length1="10" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="55" point4="60" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_C3_C4 + 90 " angle2="AngleLine_C3_C4 - 90 + 45" color="black" id="63" length1="10" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="59" point4="56" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="50" id="98" length="7.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C18" secondPoint="54" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="46" id="114" length="-#dart_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Bd1d" secondPoint="48" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="47" id="115" length="-#dart_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Bd2d" secondPoint="49" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="40" id="128" lineColor="black" secondPoint="51" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="37" id="129" length="Line_B17_C6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <line firstPoint="129" id="130" lineColor="black" secondPoint="51" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_C6_C5" angle2="AngleLine_C3_C4 + 90 + 45" color="black" id="131" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="51" point4="55" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A12_A5 + 90" angle2="120" color="black" id="176" length1="3" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="14" point4="8" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="250" angle2="90" color="black" id="179" length1="10" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="8" point4="12" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <operation id="181" p1Line="50" p2Line="53" suffix="a1" type="flippingByLine">
+                <source>
+                    <item idObject="51"/>
+                </source>
+                <destination>
+                    <item idObject="182" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/>
+                </destination>
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+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="219" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="sleevelet" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e9aa93fd-e7de-4c6f-bc84-7bc3270d9766}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="D" mx="797.223" my="-156.43" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Optional %mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="585.46" my="-156.43" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="221" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="220" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="214" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="215" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="216" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="217" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="218" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>220</record>
+                    <record>221</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..11c8779
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,313 @@
+1904 Combination Suit
+=====================
+
+.. figure:: combinations_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+   .. contents::
+
+This is a combination suit (chemise and drawers) based on
+:cite:`1904:blair`, or the previous edition :cite:`1897:blair`, with
+knee-length split drawers, no sleeves (but armhole flaps) and a round neck.
+
+It should be suitable for the whole period when combinations were in
+use, in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 2-3 m of lightweight cotton or linen.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
+* small buttons;
+* optional but recommended lace.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/blair/index`;
+see that page for the required measurements.
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit` is
+used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed
+measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`combination_suit.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible.
+
+``dart_distance``
+   2 cm up to a waist circumference of 65 cm, then add 1/8 of the
+   difference.
+``dart_waist_down``
+   length of the lower part of the darts.
+``bust_ease``
+   how much ease to leave at the bust: no more than 2 cm.
+``front_facing``
+   width of the facing on the front and crotch opening; enough to add
+   buttons and buttonholes, but note that it will have to go around a
+   tight curve, where a narrower facing will work easily.
+``front_added_depth``
+   how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the front.
+``back_added_depth``
+   how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the back.
+``shoulder_overlap``
+   how much the sleevelet should overlap at the shoulder: 1 cm for a
+   shoulder strap with buttons, a bit more if the shoulder strap is
+   closed.
+``sleevelet_depth``
+   widest part of the sleevelet.
+``seam_allowance``
+   e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut 2 fronts; if your fabric isn't especially wide you may need to cut
+each individual front in the full width of the fabric, rather than
+cutting two at a time on folded fabric; make sure to cut them so that
+they are symmetrical.
+Cut the back on the fold of the fabric.
+Cut two of the sleevelets.
+
+.. note::
+   The length of the legs on the pattern is the length of plain legs,
+   finished just with a hem.
+
+   To add a ruffle or lace at the bottom, remove its height from the
+   bottom of the leg, to add pintucks add twice their depth to the
+   bottom of the leg.
+
+   Or keep the leg as is, and make enough pintucks to precisely match
+   the height of the ruffle.
+
+Mark all darts.
+
+From the remaining fabric also cut enough bias strips, about 4 cm wide,
+to face the neck and enough cross-grain strips, 3 times the width set in
+the pattern as ``front_facing`` to face the front and the crotch
+opening.
+
+.. note::
+   It is important that the facing on the front is on the grain or
+   cross-grain, but not on the bias, as it will have to stabilize the
+   bias cut front for the buttons and buttonholes.
+
+   If you want to make a shaped facing instead of a straight one, cut it
+   with the front part on the (cross-)grain.
+
+Assembly
+^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 01-darts.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the darts in the front, press them towards the side.
+
+.. figure:: 02-sewn_legs.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 03-hemstitching_legs.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together sew the legs, press the seam open, trim the front
+allowance, press the allowances towards the front, folding the back to
+cover the raw edges and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam.
+
+.. figure:: 04-sewn_front_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the cross-grain facing to the front and
+crotch, using the ``front_facing`` measurement for the allowance
+(default is 1 cm).
+
+.. warning::
+   The line on the pattern is not the seam line, but the *center line*,
+   and will have to lie halfway through the facing where the buttons
+   will be, allowing for the overlapping.
+
+
+.. figure:: 05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold it towards the inside, fold again to cover all raw edges, hemstitch
+it down.
+
+.. figure:: 06-basted_gathering.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Baste two lines of gathering stitches between the marks of the drawers'
+back, at 18 and 22 mm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 07-sewing_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the bottom edge of the back towards the wrong side, pin it to the
+fronts in such a way that the side seam aligns with back seam of the
+side dart and the two fronts overlap in the middle up to the mark
+closest to the center back (between points C8 and A10).
+
+.. tip::
+   In the overlap I'd put the left leg on top, closest to the fabric of
+   the back, and the right leg on the bottom, closest to the body,
+   unless making the combinations for somebody who is left-handed.
+
+Gather the excess of the fabric and hemstitch the back over them,
+catching each gather with a stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 08-finishing_back_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Trim the allowance on the back, fold the allowance from the drawers over
+it and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam.
+
+.. tip::
+   To reduce bulk, you can also trim both allowances and cover
+   everything with a band of fabric hemstitched to the inside to cover
+   them.
+
+.. figure:: 09-side_seams.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the side seams continuing down into the side
+darts, and the shoulder seams.
+
+Press open and then towards the back, trim the allowances of the back
+until you reach the dart, flat fell the seam with a hemstitch.
+
+.. figure:: 12-sleevelet_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Hem the straight edge of the sleevelets with a narrow hem.
+
+.. figure:: 13-sleevelet_attached.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   This picture and the next have been taken on the variant with
+   buttoned shoulders; with sewn shoulders it should be similar, but the
+   ends of the sleevelet would overlap by a few cm.
+
+Put the sleevelet over the armhole, right sides together, such that the
+curved edge follows the line of the armhole, extending by 1 cm from the
+allowance of the armhole, and in such a way that the ends overlap a bit
+close to the shoulder seam and any fullness is gathered around the side
+seam. Sew with 1 cm allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the allowances open and then towards the body, fold the allowance
+of the sleevelet to cover all raw edges and hemstitch down to fell the
+seam.
+
+.. figure:: 15-neck_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the facing to the neck, press towards the
+inside, fold to cover the raw edges and hemstitch down.
+
+.. figure:: 16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   Here instead of a simple hem the edge has been folded up by 3 cm,
+   sewn at 1 cm from the fold, and then the raw edge has been folded
+   down 1 cm twice, to hide the raw edge and make a receiving tuck for
+   lace.
+
+Fold the leg hem up twice by 2 cm towards the wrong side, hemstitch it down for a plain finish, or add pintucks, ruffles and lace as desired.
+
+Starting from the top and going down to about the end of the darts or a
+bit above it, make buttonholes every 4 cm on the right front and attach
+corresponding buttons to the left front.
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+Buttoned shoulders
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+To be able to wear these combinations under an evening dress it is
+useful to be able to open the shoulder strap to move them out of the
+way.
+
+To do so, add 5 mm to the allowances at the shoulder seams and instead
+of sewing the fronts to the back finish each allowance by folding it
+twice towards the wrong side 1 cm after the sleevelets have been added.
+
+Make two buttonholes on each front and add the corresponding buttons to
+the back.
+
+Fullness instead of darts
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Instead of a fitted front with darts, the combination suit can be made
+with fullness in the front, controlled with e.g. a drawstring or a
+ribbon passed through beading lace at the waist.
+
+In that case, print piece C ``front_with_fullness`` instead of piece B
+``front_with_gathers``, avoid sewing the darts (of course) and add a
+mean to control the fullness to the waistline.
+
+Drawers
+^^^^^^^
+
+To make just a pair of drawers print piece C ``front_with_fullness``,
+cut the drawers part 5 cm under the waistline, add a 5 cm waistband and
+gather the legs to it.
+
+Knit fabric combinations
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: knit_combinations_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+To make this a combination suit in knit fabric you can use the pattern piece
+with darts, without sewing them, and sew the center front down to the
+end of the darts rather than make buttons.
+
+Before finishing the neckhole check that it is wide enough to enter the
+suit: if it isn't you may have to lower it, or to open a small length of
+the center front and make buttons and buttonholes.
+
+Also make sure that the neckhole finishing maintains the required
+elasticity.
+
+To give any kind of longevity to the garment you will have to use an
+elastic stitch: since sewing it from flat knit fabric is not a common
+historical construction method anyway I'd use modern stitches such as a
+narrow zig-zag.
+
+You can also avoid the facings and simply fold the raw edges towards the
+wrong side once and topstitch them down (a 3-steps zig zag stitch would
+work nicely): the raw edge will remain visible, but protected.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: combinations_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+See also
+--------
+
+* `Fediverse thread on whether people would have sewn knit underwear at
+  home
+  <https://social.gl-como.it/display/3e3ce0df-2464-65d0-644b-412075423818>`_
+  (I suspect not).
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3e08e19
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
index 5762350..3b96774 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
@@ -7,4 +7,5 @@
    :caption: Contents:
 
    combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index
+   1904_combination_suit/index