Started instructions for old style sleeves

1 files changed, 35 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index 997f9a8..a5a0eb6 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -754,6 +754,41 @@ Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the
 sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular
 instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt.
 
+Old Style Sleeves
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+To make old style straight sleeves with a gusset, cut two rectangles as
+long as ``sleeve_length`` and as wide as ``sleeve_width`` and two
+squares for the gussets: note that this style of sleeve works best when
+it's quite wide, at least 3/4 of the body width is probably best; as for
+the gusset, 20-25 cm is usually good.
+
+Put a side of a sleeve over a gusset, aligned at the top, and with the
+gusset one sewing allowance out from the sleeve, sew with a (running)
+backstitch from the top until one sewing allowance from the end of the
+gusset. Press the allowances open and then towards the sleeve, but don't
+finish the seam.
+
+Fold the sleeve in half lenghtwise, right sides together, fold the
+gusset on the diagonal and align it and the rest of the sleeve over the
+free side of the sleeve, at one sewing allowance from the edge, sew down
+the gusset and then continue through the sleeve. Press the allowance
+open, and then towards the side with the gusset.
+
+Fold the wider allowance of the gusset over the narrower allowance of
+the sleeve to make a flat-felled seam, then the wider allowance of the
+sleeve over that of the gusset and the rest of the seam, making sure
+that at the point of the gusset everything is neat. Hemstitch.
+
+Repeat with the other sleeve, making sure to make the sleeves
+symmetrical, so that on each sleeve all seams are pressed towards the
+back.
+
+Open a slit and add the cuff like in the instructions above, noting that
+there will be significantly more sleeve material to be gathered in the
+cuff.
+
+
 Gallery
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