More instructions and pictures for the 1838 shift

32 files changed, 175 insertions, 43 deletions

diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib
index 52a9b8b..07c6b3e 100644
--- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib
+++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
     author = {Workwoman},
     title = {The workwoman's guide, containing instructions in cutting out and completing articles of wearing…},
     publisher = {},
-    year = {1840},
+    year = {1838},
     url = "https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00hale",
     note = {See also https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog for another scan of the same book.},
 }
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c116540
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..232ae62
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8838b18
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7a6c072
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f2c414e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b9c0c56
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3659458
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0401-hemming_gussets.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0401-hemming_gussets.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..03c43c6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0401-hemming_gussets.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0501-making_box_pleats.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0501-making_box_pleats.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2eb623e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0501-making_box_pleats.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e09c97a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9f309d2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f12f449
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0505-measuring_gusset.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0505-measuring_gusset.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..219e2fd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0505-measuring_gusset.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b5bd61e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8d98d56
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6c09740
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0509-inserting_gusset.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0509-inserting_gusset.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..20aeedd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0509-inserting_gusset.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a61157f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..17a85ab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b67d52a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7182eb5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..36e05d3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..64b7b3e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2d22133
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c30d4b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..55f9cd2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4b5411d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8d80e49
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a3d6245
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2a18d5b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index 5a0339b..e2f6047 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -8,7 +8,22 @@
 
    .. contents::
 
-:cite:`1838:workwoman`
+This is a shift or chemise based on the instructions for women's shifts
+on page 47 of :cite:`1838:workwoman`.
+
+It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also
+suitable for evening dresses.
+
+There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold
+them over the corset straps and keep the pointy bit in place.
+
+Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the
+corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use,
+especially if cut together with matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`.
+
+Because of the period, the construction methods assume handsewing and
+would require some changes to be adapted to the sew-and-then-finish
+methods required to use a sewing machine.
 
 Materials
 ---------
@@ -17,7 +32,7 @@ Fabric
 ^^^^^^
 
 * Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm
-  wide.
+  wide or more for bigger sizes.
 
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
@@ -29,7 +44,7 @@ Pattern
 
 :cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes,
 with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made
-for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters.
+for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimetres.
 
 ==  =========================  ===  ====  === ============================
  #  Name                       1st  2nd   3rd Valentina increment
@@ -38,24 +53,33 @@ for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters.
  2  Widest width of ditto       10   8.5    7 #shoulder_strap_top_width
  3  Sloped off to                4   3.5    3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width
  4  Length of plaited sleeve    46  40     34 #sleeve_width
- 5  Depth of ditto              14  11      8 #sleeve_lenght
+ 5  Depth of ditto              14  11      8 #sleeve_length
  6  Size of gusset              11  10      9 #gusset_side
  7  Length of sleeve-band       26  21     16 #sleeve_band_length
  8  Width of ditto               3   3      3 #sleeve_band_width
- 9  Lenght of bosom gore         6   5      4 #bosom_gore_length
+ 9  Length of bosom gore         6   5      4 #bosom_gore_length
 10  Width of ditto at the top    5   5      5 #bosom_gore_width
 ==  =========================  ===  ====  === ============================
 
 .. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the
    regularity in grading.
 
-For modern bodies I would adapt them as follows: measure from the top of
-the shoulder to where you want your neckline to be, somewhere around the
-highbust, and use it to choose your size column for most other
-measurements except for the lenght of sleeve-band, to be based on the
-circumference of your upper arm plus 1 cm for ease, and the lenght of
-plaited sleeve (i.e. the width of the sleeve), which should be about
-twice the sleeve band.
+For modern bodies I would take the following measurements:
+
+* ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18): from the back of the neck to the
+  knee, where the hem of the shift will be;
+* ``bust_circ`` (G04): circumference of the bust;
+* ``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` (H15): from the top of the shoulder to the
+  highbust, or where the neckline should be;
+* ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` (L12): circumference of the arm at the sleeve
+  band;
+
+and adapt the numbers in the table as follows: choose the column where
+the Length of shoulder-strap most closely matches your
+``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` and use most of the other values in that
+column, except for the sleeve ones: for those use the column where the
+Length of sleeve-band most closely matches your ``arm_above_elbow_circ``
+plus at least 1 cm for ease.
 
 As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width
 of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80
@@ -64,20 +88,26 @@ long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger
 sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length,
 somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps.
 
-The side gores should be somewhere between 10 and 15 cm wide at the top,
-in such a way that the remaining fabric (including the bosom gores) is
-enough to go around the bust with 1-2 cm of ease.
+The book suggests that the side gores should be somewhere between 10 and
+15 cm wide at the top, but depending on the width of the fabric they can
+be adjusted even outside that range in such a way that the remaining
+fabric (including the bosom gores) is enough to go around the bust with
+1-2 cm of ease.
 
-There is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` which does all of these
-calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding
-:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are
-included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows).
+Alternatively, there is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` and
+corresponding :download:`measurements.vit`: by entering your
+measurements and the ``width_of_fabric`` and ``bosom_gore_width``
+increment it will calculate the size for all pieces.
 
 Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd
-reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table
+recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table
 and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just
 the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore.
 
+Note that all sewing allowances are included in the pieces, and should
+be as small as the fabric allows, e.g. 4-5 mm for typical underwear
+fabric.
+
 Instructions
 ------------
 
@@ -94,16 +124,17 @@ cut them vertically.
 Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and
 bosom gores from the rest of the fabric.
 
-.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`1838_drawers` note that
-   many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the drawers.
+.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`
+   note that many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the
+   drawers.
 
 .. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be
    cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the
    latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave
    more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or
-   other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps cut in
-   one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance on
-   the middle, and sew them together before continuing.
+   other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps are cut
+   in one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance
+   on the middle, and sew them together before continuing.
 
 Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are
 perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the
@@ -131,32 +162,59 @@ Gores
 Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which
 side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam:
 
-fold down one allowance from the body towards the wrong side and press;
-fold down one allowance from the gore towards the *right* side and
-press; right sides together put the body on top of the gore, aligning it
+.. figure:: 0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+fold down one allowance from the body towards the *right* side and press;
+fold down one allowance from the gore towards the wrong side and
+press; right sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it
 so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to
 the gore from the wrong side of the body.
 
-Press the seam open, so that the fold of the gore covers the raw edge of
-the body, and hemstitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the
+.. figure:: 0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of
+the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the
 seam.
 
+.. note:: I suggest using an hemming stitch on the wrong side and an
+   applique stitch on the right side as to minimize the visible thread
+   on the outside; the original book didn't mention a difference using
+   an hemming stitch on both sides, and with white thread on white
+   fabric it's often not a big deal.
+
 Bosom Gores
 ^^^^^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped
 slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the
 bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts).
 
+.. figure:: 0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side
 by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about
 one allowance wide.
 
+.. figure:: 0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance.
 
+.. figure:: 0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place
 and applique-stitch from the right side
 
+.. figure:: 0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 and hemstitch from the wrong side.
 
 Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the
@@ -165,62 +223,109 @@ wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them.
 Gussets
 ^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0401-hemming_gussets.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
 mitering the corners, hemstitch.
 
 Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0501-making_box_pleats.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the
 sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the
-sleeve, sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges
+sleeve;
+
+.. figure:: 0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges
 to keep the pleats in place.
 
 Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back,
 press.
 
+.. figure:: 0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and
 applique stitch the folded edge.
 
+.. figure:: 0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance
 towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the
 raw edges, press.
 
 Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve.
 
+Wait until later to sew these.
+
+.. figure:: 0505-measuring_gusset.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with
 the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends.
 
+.. figure:: 0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the
 band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one
 side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and
 hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from
 the band and stopping at the pin.
 
+.. figure:: 0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem
 all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners.
 
+.. figure:: 0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing
 all raw edges.
 
-Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides
+.. figure:: 0509-inserting_gusset.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put a side of the gusset on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides
 together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the
 gusset and the other side of the sleeve.
 
 .. tip::
    Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam,
-   when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on the three
-   other raw edges.
+   when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on three
+   raw edges, whipstitch the sleeve and the gusset and finally hem the
+   band..
+
+   .. figure:: 0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg
+      :align: center
 
    Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners.
 
+.. figure:: 0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg
+   :align: center
+
    Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and
    whipstitch until the end of the gusset;
 
+.. figure:: 0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
    then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right
    sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and
    continuing into the sleeve.
 
+.. figure:: 0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg
+   :align: center
+
    And then finish the band as above.
 
    This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the
@@ -231,48 +336,78 @@ gusset and the other side of the sleeve.
 Shoulder Straps
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side,
 mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch.
 
+.. figure:: 0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap.
 
 Side seams
 ^^^^^^^^^^
 
-Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of tbe
+.. figure:: 0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of the
 back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and
 mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece.
 
 Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores.
 
+.. figure:: 0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece
 over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is
 one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the
 back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and
 stopping at the point marked for the gusset.
 
-Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the back, and
-hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners.
+.. figure:: 0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the wrong side,
+and hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners.
 
 Attaching the sleeves
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together,
 pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides
 together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short
 edges.
 
+.. figure:: 0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the
 shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and
 whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset.
 
+.. figure:: 0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Turn inside out.
 
 Hem
 ^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0901-bottom_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch.
 
+Variants
+--------
+
 Front Ruffle
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
@@ -280,11 +415,8 @@ Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as
 the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm
 high; finish all edges with a narrow hem.
 
-TODO: gather and attach
-
-Variants
---------
-
+Sew a gathering thread on one edge, pull it to the size of the front
+edge, right sides together whipstitch to the front edge.
 
 Gallery
 -------