more shirt

1 files changed, 26 insertions, 4 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 1fdeb61..212463e 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -369,7 +369,7 @@ symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the opposite direction).
 Cut the slit one third of the way in, towards the front of the sleeve,
 fold down the edges twice and hem stitch them down.
 
-From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 2.5 cm wide, cut them on the
+From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the
 diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to
 the top of the slit on both sides, using an applique stitch on the
 outside and a hemstitch on the inside.
@@ -380,6 +380,9 @@ edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching
 each gather with a stitch. Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the
 wrong side.
 
+Run two lines of gathering thread for about 20 cm at the center of the
+sleeve.
+
 Assembly of the body
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
@@ -401,9 +404,28 @@ seam, and hemstitch.
 
 <inserting the sleeves, felling the side seam>
 
-From the scraps of fabric cut four squares 2.5 cm wide, fold down their
-edges and sew them to the bottom of the side seams on both sides, using
-an applique stitch on the outside and a hemstitch on the inside.
+.. tip::
+
+   Even when doing straight seams by machine, it is probably easier and
+   quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and
+   sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance.
+
+.. note::
+
+   Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original
+   instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming
+   it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (this is
+   already marked in the valentina pattern), put the sleeve in with
+   wrong sides facing, backstitch at a bit less than the sewing
+   allowance from the edge, press; turn the sleeve inside out, right
+   sides facing, backstitch the straight part at a bit more than the
+   sewing allowance from the previous seam, turn it right side out and
+   hemstitch the gathered part catching each gather with a stitch.
+
+From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on
+the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the
+bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the
+outside and a hemstitch on the inside.
 
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^