New pattern: Low Waste Elastic Neck Top

22 files changed, 769 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
index cf4e154..6443484 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
@@ -10,5 +10,6 @@ breasts.
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
 
+   tops/index
    leisurewear/index
    accessories/index
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..213df9e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+******
+ Tops
+******
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0101-gusset_flat.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0101-gusset_flat.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0101-gusset_flat.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0102-gusset_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0102-gusset_back.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0102-gusset_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0103-sleeve_finished.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0103-sleeve_finished.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0103-sleeve_finished.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0201-sleeve_on_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0201-sleeve_on_front.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0201-sleeve_on_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0202-sleeve_between_front_and_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0202-sleeve_between_front_and_back.jpg
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index 0000000..f12d079
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0202-sleeve_between_front_and_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0203-side_french_seamed.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0203-side_french_seamed.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0203-side_french_seamed.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0204-main_shape_of_the_top.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0204-main_shape_of_the_top.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0204-main_shape_of_the_top.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0205-neck_gusset_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0205-neck_gusset_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0205-neck_gusset_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0206-neck_gusset_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0206-neck_gusset_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0206-neck_gusset_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0301-casing_sewn.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0301-casing_sewn.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0301-casing_sewn.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0302-casing_finished.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0302-casing_finished.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0302-casing_finished.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0303-casing_over_neck_gussets.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0303-casing_over_neck_gussets.jpg
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0303-casing_over_neck_gussets.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0401-rolled_hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0401-rolled_hem.jpg
new file mode 100644
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0401-rolled_hem.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0402-elastic_gathers.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0402-elastic_gathers.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0402-elastic_gathers.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,258 @@
+Low Waste Elastic Neck Top
+==========================
+
+.. figure:: top_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+   .. contents::
+
+This is a simple top made of rectangles with a gathered neckline (and
+optionally cuffs) that can be optionally worn off-the shoulders.
+
+It's a pretty quick and easy project that can be sewn by hand or by machine.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 1.5 m lightweight shirt material (cotton, linen, viscose…).
+
+Because of the gathering, this pattern will require a pretty
+lightweight, woven material.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* about 60 cm good looking elastic;
+* sewing thread to match the fabric.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+After straightening the cuts, measure your fabric; you can draw the
+pattern directly on the fabric, or make a scale drawing on paper first.
+
+The fit of this garment is given mostly by the gathering, so the pattern
+dimensions don't have to be precise and depend mostly on the size of the
+available fabric.
+
+.. figure:: top.svg
+   :align: center
+
+For fabric that is at least 140 cm wide, you can use the cutting scheme
+in the image above.
+
+Measure the length of the sleeves, from the tip of the shoulder to the
+wrist, following the bent arm. Add as much extra length you want and
+measure this in the width of the fabric.
+The remaining width of the fabric will be the width of the front and
+back pieces: check that it is enough to go around the widest part of the
+body (bust, waist/belly or hips) with at least 40 cm ease
+
+Divide the fabric on this measurement; divide the part with the front
+and back pieces in two, of equal length.
+
+Measure around the top of the arm, add quite some ease, and make this
+the width of the sleeve; for an average arm something like 50 cm are a
+good starting measure, but feel free to go wider.
+
+From the remaining part of the fabric cut enough stripes for the casing
+to go around the top of the body and the sleeves, 3 cm plus two sewing
+allowances high, and two square gussets for the sleeves with a side
+between 20 and 30 cm.
+Finally cut four small square gussets for the neck, with a side of
+around 4 – 5 cm, and cut them on the diagonal to make eight right
+triangles.
+
+.. figure:: narrow_fabric.svg
+   :align: center
+
+For narrower fabric or bigger pieces you can cut the sleeves from the
+full width of the fabric; the casing and the gussets can be cut from any
+remaining width beside the front and back.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut all pieces taking care to follow the straight grain: depending on
+the fabric you may rip it or pull out a thread and follow that.
+
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0101-gusset_flat.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, align one side of a gusset to the top of the
+sleeve so that the gusset extends by one seam allowance, sew with a bit
+less than half of the allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-gusset_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the gusset to that it makes a right triangle under the arm, put it
+on the other side of the sleeve, wrong sides together and sew with a bit
+less than half of the allowance starting from the gusset and continuing
+with the length of the sleeve.
+
+.. tip:: if sewing by machine you will want to stop at the point of the
+   gusset, and start again the sleeve seam (or the side seam below); you
+   may also want to stop a bit before the actual gusset point, and then
+   sew it close by hand, for the best accuracy.
+
+.. figure:: 0103-sleeve_finished.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press, turn the sleeve inside out, with right sides together, and sew
+again the same seams with a bit more than the allowance, starting with
+one side of the gusset and continuing with the other side of the gusset
+and down the length of the sleeve to make a french seam.
+
+Repeat for the other sleeve.
+
+.. tip:: if the pattern can only be matched between the gusset and the
+   sleeve on one side, make sure to do it symmetrically on the two
+   sleeves, so that the matching part can go on the front.
+
+Body
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-sleeve_on_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the gusset part of the sleeve on the front body piece, wrong sides
+together, so that the top of the body aligns with the seam between the
+gusset and the sleeve. Sew the gusset to the front with a bit less than
+the seam allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-sleeve_between_front_and_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the back body piece wrong sides together over the remaining gusset
+edge, again aligning the top of the body to the seam between gusset and
+sleeve, and sew with a bit less than the seam allowance starting from
+the gusset and then continuing sewing the back to the front down the
+side of the body.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-side_french_seamed.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press, turn inside out, with right sides together, sew again the same
+seams, first the gusset to the front, then the gusset to the back,
+continuing down with the side seam, to make a french seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-main_shape_of_the_top.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Repeat with the other side.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-neck_gusset_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down and press the straight grain edges of a neck gusset, put it
+over a corner between the body and the sleeve, wrong side of the gusset
+on the right side of the garment; topstitch or applique stitch it down.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-neck_gusset_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down and press the straight grain edges of another neck gusset, put
+it wrong sides together over the gusset you've just applied and
+hemstitch it down, covering the right edges of the garment. Leave the
+bias edge free, as it will be covered by the casing.
+
+Repeat with the four other gussets.
+
+Casing
+^^^^^^
+
+Sew the stripes for the casing together into a long strip.
+
+.. figure:: 0301-casing_sewn.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Hem one edge of the casing and put it right sides together on the top
+edge, starting from the center front; sew all around until you almost
+reach the center front, cut and hem the other end and finish sewing.
+
+.. tip:: if sewing by hand you can also start sewing the individual
+   strips to the body, joining them as needed just before you reach the
+   end of each piece.
+   This can be useful if you need to match a pattern.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-casing_finished.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The casing over the front and back
+
+.. figure:: 0303-casing_over_neck_gussets.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The casing over the neck gussets and sleeves
+
+Press the casing up, fold it in half towards the back, press the raw
+edge up and hemstitch it to the back, covering all raw edges.
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0401-rolled_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the bottom of the front and back twice towards the wrong side to
+make a narrow hem, either topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, or
+make a rolled hem by hand.
+
+Use the same technique to make a hem on the sleeves.
+
+.. figure:: 0402-elastic_gathers.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut a piece of elastic as long as you want the (widest) neckline to be,
+plus 40 cm; thread it through the casing, gathering the neckline, and
+close it with a knot in the front.
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+Gathered cuffs
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+To make gathered cuffs, fold back the edges of the sleeves by 1 cm twice
+towards the wrong side; hemstitch down to make a casing leaving 1.5 cm
+not sewn.
+
+Cut enough elastic to go easily around the wrist plus allowance, thread
+it into the casing, sew it into a loop and finally close the casing.
+
+This works best with sleeves that have been made extra long.
+
+Ruffle-look casing
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+To add a small ruffle to the neckline, cut the casing strips a bit
+higher, maybe 8-9 cm plus two sewing allowances.
+
+Attach them to the top like in the instructions above, then sew a
+straight seam just above the raw edges and another one 1 cm above that
+and insert the elastic between these two seams.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+For reference, with a bust size of 84 cm, this top was made with fronts
+and backs 83 cm × 61.5 cm, sleeves 54 cm × 42 cm and 20 cm gussets.
+
+.. figure:: top_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: off_the_shoulders.jpg
+   :align: center
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/narrow_fabric.svg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/narrow_fabric.svg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..04e522b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/narrow_fabric.svg
@@ -0,0 +1,226 @@
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ec90f44
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/off_the_shoulders.jpg
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3e2bf80
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/top.svg
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..aafc367
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+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/top_back.jpg
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5dc3692
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