Merge branch 'bathrobe'

20 files changed, 544 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
index a3bd070..e192d6b 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
@@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ breasts.
 .. toctree::
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
+
+   leisurewear/index
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0c4938
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+*************
+ Leisurewear
+*************
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   low_waste_bathrobe/index
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..973171d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a282ed9
--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg
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--- /dev/null
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index 0000000..eb9c918
--- /dev/null
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--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0401-sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0401-sleeves.jpg
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index 0000000..81e2482
--- /dev/null
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--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg
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--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg
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new file mode 100644
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new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.jpg
new file mode 100644
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
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+Low Waste Bathrobe
+==================
+
+.. figure:: bathrobe.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+   .. contents::
+
+This is a simple bathrobe made out of fabric rectangles, shaped by a
+single pleat in the center back and a self-fabric belt.
+
+It is a pretty quick project (making it took me about half a day), but
+maybe not the best for beginner sewists, as inserting the sleeves can be
+a bit fiddly.
+
+I'm calling it low waste rather than no-waste because folding up the
+sleeves to make cuffs rather than cutting them down to the correct
+length (and having a leftover) sounds like cheating (and the pleat in
+the back is a *design choice*, but also a bit of cheating with regards
+to fabric waste).
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Less than 2 m of towel material (see the pattern below for precise amounts);
+* 15 cm cotton jersey in a matching or contrasting color, for binding.
+
+The fabric should be both absorbent and somewhat elastic in all
+directions: honeycomb is a great choice, while terry may be a bit tricky
+to work with.
+
+Specifically, the sleeves and the end of the shoulder seam towards the
+neckline will require an elastic fabric; if not using one you can add
+small triangular gussets to ease the transition between the straight
+lines.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
+   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee (or to where
+   you want the bathrobe to end);
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+   from armscye to armscye on the back;
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist;
+``shoulder_length`` (I01)
+   distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder;
+``armscye_circ`` (L19)
+   circumference around the armscye.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: bathrobe.svg
+   :align: center
+
+Measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the fabric and as high
+as the desired length of the bathrobe (A18) plus 2 cm sewing allowance.
+
+Near the top, mark the quarter points, where you will cut the armscye
+slits, half ``armscye_circ`` (L19) long. From each quarter point,
+measure half ``across_back_b`` (I08) towards the center back, and
+measure the position of the center back seam, which should be
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) plus 2 cm long.
+Mark two slits, 5 cm tall for the belt in the pleat fabric, parallel to
+the seam at about 2 cm of distance, and aligned with the end of the
+seam.
+
+For the sleeves, measure two rectangles as tall as half the width of the
+fabric and as high as ``armscye_circ`` (L19) plus 4 cm allowance.
+
+For the belt, measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the
+fabric, and 10 cm long.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+When sewing it's important to use a stretch stitch to preserve the
+elasticity of the fabric: if your machine has a lighting bolt stretch
+stich you can use that, otherwise a narrow zig-zag (1.5 mm wide) will
+do.
+
+Since all seams are fully enclosed (either french or flat-felled) a
+serger is not required, and using one will require adjustment of the
+pattern.
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the rectangles described in the Pattern section; mark the position
+of the armscye slits with a partial cut 5–10 cm long, but don't cut them
+fully until you're ready to insert the sleeves.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   As long as the selvedges aren't horribly different from the fabric,
+   don't cut them away, but let them be part of the pattern pieces.
+
+From the jersey, cut cross-grain strips 4-5 cm wide for the binding;
+with wide jersey 3 strips will usually be enough.
+
+Slits
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+From the binding, cut two rectangles 8-9 cm tall, mark a rectangle 1 cm
+wide and 5 cm tall in their middle and align them over the slits marked
+on the fabric, on the right side.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew over the rectangle, carefully cut the slit in the center, angling
+towards the corners.
+
+.. figure:: 0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn the binding to the wrong side, and topstitch at 1 cm from the slit
+to keep it in place.
+
+Pleat
+^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0202-basted_pleat.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the center back pleat.
+
+Baste the pleat flat near the top border.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-hanging_loop.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If you have scraps from straighening the fabric, cut a rectangle about 3
+cm wide and 10 cm long, fold in in 3 and sew it in the middle with a
+wide zig-zag, otherwise you can use a bit of sturdy ribbon.
+
+Sew its short sides to the top border, near the center of the pleats.
+
+Shoulders
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0301-shoulders.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, put the front over the back and sew
+``shoulder_length`` (I01) starting from each sleeve slit with 8 mm
+allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-shoulders.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn inside out, and sew again at 1 cm allowance to make a french seam.
+
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0401-sleeves.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, align one long side of the sleeve at 1 cm distance
+from the other, and sew with a 2 cm sewing allowance.
+
+Repeat with the other sleeve, taking care to do so simmetrically.
+
+.. figure:: 0402-felled_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the large allowances over the smaller one and topstitch to flat
+fell.
+
+Finish cutting the sleeve slits on the body.
+
+.. figure:: 0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, insert each sleeve in the body, pinning the sleeve
+seam at the bottom of the slit.
+
+Sew with a seam allowance of 8 mm, starting just before the bottom of
+the slit and ending just after it, so that there is a double line of
+sewing for strenght.
+
+.. figure:: 0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn the sleeve inside out, sew again with a 1 cm allowance to finish
+the french seam, sewing again twice near the bottom of the slit.
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0501-binding.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the binding all around the edge of the
+bathrobe, starting from the center top. Also sew the remaining binding
+to the sleeve cuffs.
+
+Fold the binding over the edge, enclosing all raw edges, and hemstitch
+it by hand or topstitch it from the right side.
+
+Belt
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0601-belt_sewn.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the belt in half lengthwise, sew at 1 cm from the side.
+
+.. figure:: 0602-belt_finished.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn inside out; if you're using the selvedge of the fabric there will
+be no need to finish the ends.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: bathrobe_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+