More work on the jacket

2 files changed, 216 insertions, 2 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/details.val b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/details.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9e1022f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/details.val
@@ -0,0 +1,158 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.0</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>1880s sportswear jacket</patternName>
+    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+    <company></company>
+    <customer></customer>
+    <birthDate>2000-01-01</birthDate>
+    <email></email>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment description="measured on the jacket, will be about neck circumference + 1 cm" formula="39" name="#collar_circumference"/>
+        <increment description="desired height of the collar" formula="5" name="#collar_height"/>
+        <increment description="desired width of the pocket" formula="15" name="#pocket_width"/>
+        <increment description="desired height of the pocket" formula="20" name="#pocket_height"/>
+        <increment description="desired height of the pocket flap" formula="6" name="#flap_height"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="details">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#collar_circumference / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="3" length="#collar_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="2" id="4" length="1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="4" id="5" length="#collar_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="6" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <line firstPoint="4" id="8" lineColor="black" secondPoint="1" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A3_A" angle2="AngleLine_A3_A - 180" color="black" id="9" length1="5" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="6" point4="3" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A3_A + 90" angle2="AngleLine_A3_A -180" color="black" id="10" length1="2" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="4" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A3_A - 180" angle2="AngleLine_A3_A" color="black" id="11" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="4" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="12" length="#pocket_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="13" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="13" id="14" length="#pocket_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="15" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="16" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="15" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="12" id="17" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="15" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="0" color="black" id="18" length1="5" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="17" point4="14" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" color="black" id="19" length1="2" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="14" point4="16" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="20" length="#flap_height" lineColor="black" mx="1.08571" my="-0.196162" name="A12" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="21" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="20" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="22" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="21" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="12" id="23" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="21" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="0" color="black" id="24" length1="1" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="23" point4="20" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" color="black" id="25" length1="1" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="20" point4="22" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="26" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="27" idObject="9" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="28" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="29" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="30" idObject="11" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="31" idObject="4" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="32" idObject="10" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="34" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="35" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="36" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="37" idObject="18" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="38" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="39" idObject="19" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="40" idObject="16" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="42" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="43" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="44" idObject="23" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="45" idObject="24" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="46" idObject="20" inUse="true" mx="1.08571" my="-0.196162" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="47" idObject="25" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="48" idObject="22" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="50" idObject="3" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="51" idObject="1" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="52" idObject="13" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="53" idObject="14" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="54" idObject="13" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="55" idObject="20" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="33" mx="0" my="0" name="collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{4dc45652-9fd2-4dd6-894a-b2e89ca90ccf}" version="2" width="1">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="A" mx="-221.194" my="-143.991" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="-459.094" my="-153.321" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="51" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="50" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="27" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="28" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="30" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="32" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>50</record>
+                    <record>51</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="41" mx="0" my="0" name="applied_pocket" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{3f2556b9-869f-4b60-af74-d7403b56d100}" version="2" width="1">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="B" mx="360.438" my="113.879" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="82.8882" my="116.212" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="53" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="52" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="34" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="35" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="36" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="37" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="38" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="39" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>52</record>
+                    <record>53</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="49" mx="1.48104" my="-6.6647" name="applied_pocket_flap" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{2d939e5f-0925-4a3b-81f5-2613ce217083}" version="2" width="1">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="323.121" my="55.5704" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="150.526" my="55.5704" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="55" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="54" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="43" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="45" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="46" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="47" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="48" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>54</record>
+                    <record>55</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst
index 3af3fa8..16c14ce 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst
@@ -36,12 +36,13 @@ Fabric
 * About 1.5 m of fashion fabric (at least 140 cm wide): mid-weight cotton,
   linen or wool;
 * about 1.5 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen;
-
+* a small piece of canvas / interlining for the collar.
 
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
 
 * sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* hooks and bars;
 
 Pattern
 -------
@@ -68,6 +69,46 @@ Instructions
 Cutting
 ^^^^^^^
 
+Cut all pieces of the jacket from either the fabric or the lining,
+whichever is the most stable. Leave a bigger allowance (e.g. 4 cm) on
+the center back, to fill in the hollows, and on the shoulder and side
+seams, for fitting adjustments.
+
+On the fabric, you may also want to leave a double allowance for the
+hem.
+
+Use the pieces you've just cut as a pattern to cut the other one (fabric
+or lining).
+
+Also cut two collar pieces (on the fold), two applied pockets and four
+pocket flaps from the fabric, two pockets from the lining and one collar
+from the interfacing.
+
+Pockets and collar
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Put the collar pieces right sides together with the interlining on top,
+sew all around at 1 cm from the edge, leaving a few cm open in the
+center bottom.
+
+Press, clip and notch the allowances, turn inside out, press again.
+
+You don't need to whipstitch the opening close, as it will be closed
+with attaching the collar to the jacket.
+
+Leave aside until the jacket is finished.
+
+Put the lining on top of the pocket pieces, right sides together, sew at
+1 cm from the edge, leaving a few cm open to one side.
+
+Put the two parts of the pocket flaps right sides together, sew at 1 cm
+from the edge, leaving a few cm open at the top.
+
+Press, clip and notch the allowances of the pockets and pocket flaps,
+turn inside out, press again.
+
+The openings will be closed when applying the pockets to the jacket.
+
 Flatlining
 ^^^^^^^^^^
 
@@ -103,6 +144,9 @@ allowances are very useful in case you need to adapt the jacket to body
 shape changes in the future. Using a steam iron to help the fabric
 follow the curves can be useful, especially with wool.
 
+Assembly
+^^^^^^^^
+
 Pin and baste the side seam, starting from the waist and allowing for
 any lenght difference at the two edges. Also pin and baste the shoulder
 seams, easing the longer back into the front.
@@ -110,7 +154,19 @@ seams, easing the longer back into the front.
 While wearing your full underwear and supports, try on the jacket,
 pinning the center fronts together, and adjust the fit as needed.
 
-Mark the position for the welt pockets above the bust.
+If the side and shoulder seams have to be unpicked and redone, but you
+are already sure about the position of the pockets, you may want to
+proceed to attach them on the fronts, otherwise continue with the seams
+and attach them later to the finished jacket body.
+
+Sew the side and shoulder seams, press open, press back 1 cm and
+herryingbone stitch the allowances to the lining.
+
+Pockets
+^^^^^^^
+
+Try the jacket on, mark the position for the welt pocket above the bust,
+and pin the pockets and pocket flaps in their position.
 
 Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^