Started drafting a corset

4 files changed, 309 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
index 3b96774..c266de8 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
@@ -8,4 +8,5 @@
 
    combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index
    1904_combination_suit/index
+   single_layer_midbust_corset/index
 
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e037678
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,168 @@
+Single Layer Midbust Corset
+===========================
+
+.. figure:: 
+   :align: center
+
+This is a simple corset in 6 panels, suitable for a generic victorian 
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* less than 1 m of strong corset fabric, e.g. coutil.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* strong sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* boning: either ~ 14 m 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 10 mmspiral
+  steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel;
+* one steel busk;
+* ~ 4 m 25 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same
+  amount premade boning channel tape;
+* less than 1 m 10 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape;
+* buttonhole twist silk for flossing.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern
+file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+These measurements should be taken while wearing just modern underwear
+(including a well fitting bra); a tight camisole with side seams can
+help to take the arc measurements, and it's helpful to mark at least the
+waist, but ideally all of the circumferences with tape.
+
+Full circumferences:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+   Circumference around Bust;
+``lowbust_circ`` (G05)
+   Circumference under the breasts;
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+   Circumference around the Waist;
+``highhip_circ`` (G08)
+   Circumference at the hip bone level;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   Circumference around the widest part of the hips;
+
+The same measurements, just on the front, from an ideal side seam to an
+ideal side seam:
+
+``bust_arc_f`` (G12)
+   ;
+``lowbust_arc_f`` (G13)
+   ;
+``waist_arc_f`` (G15)
+   ;
+``highhip_arc_f`` (G16)
+   ;
+``hip_arc_b`` (G17)
+   ;
+
+And the corresponding back arcs; in the valentina file these are
+calculated from the two measurements above (but you may want to take
+these measurements as a double check):
+
+``bust_arc_b`` (G28)
+   ;
+``lowbust_arc_b`` (G29)
+   ;
+``waist_arc_b`` (G31)
+   ;
+``highhip_arc_b`` (G32)
+   ;
+``hip_arc_b`` (G33)
+   ;
+
+Vertical measurements; except for the first one taken straight in the
+front (i.e. not following the curve of the body) between the heights
+where the above measurements had been taken:
+
+``armpit_to_waist_side`` (H03)
+   this is used to check the height of the corset under the armpit and
+   should follow the curve of the body;
+``bust_to_waist_f`` (H10)
+   ;
+``lowbust_to_waist_f`` (H11)
+   ;
+``waist_to_highhip_f`` (H30)
+   ;
+``waist_to_hip_f`` (H31)
+   ;
+
+And finally, a custom measurement that is specific for corsets:
+
+``reduced_waist_circ``
+   this can be the natural waist, a couple of cm less, or more if you so
+   desire.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`midbust_corset.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables:
+
+``waist_to_top_f``
+   from the waist to the top of the corset in the front: around the
+   measurement of ``bust_to_waist`` is usually good;
+``waist_to_top_side``
+   from the waist to the top of the corset under the armpit: this should
+   be less than ``armpit_to_waist_side``;
+``waist_to_top_b``
+   from the waist to the top of the corset on the back: often, but not
+   always, the same as ``waist_to_top_f``;
+``waist_to_bottom_f``
+   from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center front;
+``waist_to_bottom_side``
+   from the waist to the bottom of the corset on the side;
+``waist_to_bottom_b``
+   from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center back: often,
+   but not always, the same as ``waist_to_bottom_f``;
+``lacing_gap``
+   usually 5 - 10 cm;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   2 cm will allow for easy adjustments of the pattern.
+
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut 2 of panels 2-5, cut 2 of panels 1 and 5 *on the fold* (both the
+center front and the center back panels will have two layers, everything
+else will be single layer).
+
+Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline.
+
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+Boning Variant
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Instead of having two wide bones per seam, you can use narrower boning
+and add an additional bone in the middle of each panel.
+
+To do so, after you've inserted the busk sew a channel in the middle of
+each panel except for the back ones, perpendicular to the waist line,
+and then proceed as per the instructions above.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: 
+   :align: center
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..27a24d8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,38 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+    <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.5.2</version>
+    <read-only>false</read-only>
+    <notes/>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+    <personal>
+        <customer/>
+        <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+        <gender>unknown</gender>
+        <email/>
+    </personal>
+    <body-measurements>
+        <m name="bust_circ" value="80"/>
+        <m name="lowbust_circ" value="70"/>
+        <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/>
+        <m name="highhip_circ" value="90"/>
+        <m name="hip_circ" value="90"/>
+        <m name="bust_arc_f" value="50"/>
+        <m name="lowbust_arc_f" value="35"/>
+        <m name="waist_arc_f" value="35"/>
+        <m name="highhip_arc_f" value="45"/>
+        <m name="hip_arc_f" value="45"/>
+        <m name="bust_arc_b" value="(bust_circ - bust_arc_f)"/>
+        <m name="lowbust_arc_b" value="(lowbust_circ - lowbust_arc_f)"/>
+        <m name="waist_arc_b" value="(waist_circ - waist_arc_f)"/>
+        <m name="highhip_arc_b" value="(highhip_circ - highhip_arc_f)"/>
+        <m name="hip_arc_b" value="(hip_circ - hip_arc_f)"/>
+        <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/>
+        <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="18"/>
+        <m name="lowbust_to_waist_f" value="13"/>
+        <m name="waist_to_highhip_f" value="10"/>
+        <m name="waist_to_hip_f" value="20"/>
+        <m description="Circumference around the waist with a confortable reduction." full_name="Reduced Waist circumference" name="@reduced_waist_circ" value="60"/>
+    </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..534577f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val
@@ -0,0 +1,102 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.1</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
+    <measurements path="measurements.vit"/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment formula="bust_to_waist_f + 1" name="#waist_to_top_f"/>
+        <increment formula="armpit_to_waist_side - 4" name="#waist_to_top_side"/>
+        <increment formula="#waist_to_top_f" name="#waist_to_top_b"/>
+        <increment formula="(waist_to_highhip_f + waist_to_hip_f) / 2" name="#waist_to_bottom_f"/>
+        <increment formula="waist_to_highhip_f " name="#waist_to_bottom_side"/>
+        <increment formula="#waist_to_bottom_f" name="#waist_to_bottom_b"/>
+        <increment formula="5" name="#lacing_gap"/>
+        <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="corset">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="-0.471952" my="-1.99686" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="2" length="bust_to_waist_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.877097" my="-2.09406" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="lowbust_to_waist_f" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="4" length="waist_to_hip_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.656086" my="-2.4572" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="waist_to_highhip_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.656086" my="-2.27306" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="6" length="lowbust_arc_f" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="7" length="CurrentLength/3 * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="8" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="9" length="lowbust_arc_b - #lacing_gap" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="10" length="CurrentLength/3 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="11" length="CurrentLength/3*2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="12" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="7" id="13" mx="-1.11642" my="-2.36513" name="A12" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="8" id="14" mx="-1.02435" my="-2.181" name="A13" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="15" mx="-1.20849" my="-2.27306" name="A14" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="16" mx="-1.11642" my="-2.4572" name="A15" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="9" id="17" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="18" length="(lowbust_arc_f - waist_arc_f) / 8" lineColor="black" mx="-2.77362" my="0.488942" name="A17" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="19" length="(lowbust_arc_f - waist_arc_f) / 8" lineColor="black" mx="0.632851" my="0.581009" name="A18" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="14" id="20" length="(lowbust_arc_f - waist_arc_f) / 4" lineColor="black" mx="-2.31329" my="0.488942" name="A19" secondPoint="13" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="14" id="21" length="(lowbust_arc_f - waist_arc_f) / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="22" length="(lowbust_arc_f - waist_arc_f) / 4" lineColor="black" mx="-2.58949" my="0.857209" name="A21" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="23" length="(lowbust_arc_b - waist_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.172516" my="0.488942" name="A22" secondPoint="15" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="15" id="24" length="(lowbust_arc_b - waist_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="-1.57675" my="0.488942" name="A23" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="15" id="25" length="(lowbust_arc_b - waist_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" secondPoint="16" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="16" id="26" length="(lowbust_arc_b - waist_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.40536" my="0.396875" name="A25" secondPoint="15" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="16" id="27" length="(lowbust_arc_b - waist_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A26" secondPoint="17" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="28" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A27" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="7" id="29" mx="-1.11642" my="-2.08893" name="A28" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="8" id="30" mx="-1.02435" my="-2.4572" name="A29" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="31" mx="-1.02435" my="-2.27306" name="A30" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
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+            <point firstPoint="2" id="70" length="(bust_arc_f - lowbust_arc_f) / 12" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A69" secondPoint="63" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="2" id="71" length="(bust_arc_b - lowbust_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="-0.980886" my="0.604453" name="A70" secondPoint="62" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="63" id="72" length="(bust_arc_b - lowbust_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.01878" my="0.604453" name="A71" secondPoint="64" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="63" id="73" length="(bust_arc_b - lowbust_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A72" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="64" id="74" length="(bust_arc_b - lowbust_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.64151" my="0.396875" name="A73" secondPoint="65" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="64" id="75" length="(bust_arc_b - lowbust_arc_b) / 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A74" secondPoint="63" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling/>
+        <details/>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>