diff options
| author | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2023-01-25 13:13:57 +0100 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2023-01-25 13:13:57 +0100 |
| commit | 8c9d9849aadd860721ac1fe8aa7b9a39f504373e (patch) | |
| tree | 7dff5a80add63d7766eaa65e9a2fc823b168e7e0 /source/historical_womenswear | |
| parent | 34f48a79643e7f94e9d8f5d1f648e03209f645ec (diff) | |
Migrated the blocks based on Cutter's Practical Guide from another repo
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear')
8 files changed, 913 insertions, 7 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4965a96 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="bust_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="120"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_highbust_b" value="20"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="39"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/> + <m name="height_armpit" value="120"/> + <m name="across_back_b" value="30"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="45"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="70"/> + <m name="across_chest_f" value="40"/> + <m name="armfold_to_armfold_bust" value="44"/> + <m name="neck_circ" value="40"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_armfold_front" value="30"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_bust_front" value="40"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/> + <m name="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front" value="41"/> + <m name="height_waist_front" value="100"/> + <m name="height_waist_side" value="102"/> + <m name="height_waist_back" value="105"/> + <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="30"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d6c88d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val @@ -0,0 +1,216 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Foundation Skirt</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company>Cutter's Practical Guide</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements>cutters.vit</measurements> + <increments> + <increment formula="2.5" name="#placket_depth"/> + <increment formula="45" name="#pocket_depth_from_waist"/> + <increment formula="14" name="#pocket_width"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="height_waist_front + 1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A40" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="3" length="hip_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="18" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="5" mx="-3.64244" my="-0.0496415" name="A20a" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-0.405192" my="-1.61245" name="A1" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="6" id="7" length="1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Ah" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A40f" p1Line="7" p2Line="4" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point center="7" firstPoint="1" id="9" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" radius="waist_circ / 8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfContact"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="10" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="11" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20sb" p1Line="10" p2Line="5" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="9" id="12" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5h" secondPoint="10" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="10" id="13" length="(waist_circ / 2 - 4 - Line_Ah_A4) / 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16h" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="13" id="14" length="(CurrentLength - Line_A19_A16h * 2) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13h" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="14" id="15" length="Line_A19_A16h" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="15" id="16" length="Line_A16h_A13h" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="13" id="17" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.63311" my="-2.05897" name="A15w" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="15" id="18" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.52148" my="-1.94734" name="A9hw" secondPoint="16" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="12" id="19" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.19126" my="-2.05897" name="A4qqqw" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="19" id="20" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4qqq" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="18" id="21" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9h" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="17" id="22" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="21" id="23" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9hh" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="11" id="24" length="33" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="25" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B13" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="24" id="26" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="27" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0r" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="160" color="black" id="28" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="27" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="-10" angle2="180" color="black" id="29" length1="3" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="9" point4="7" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="10" id="30" length="25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="10" id="31" length="13" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="31" id="32" length="14" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="30" id="33" length="#placket_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="33" id="34" length="1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" color="black" id="35" length1="1" length2="1" penStyle="hair" point1="30" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <line firstPoint="11" id="82" lineColor="black" secondPoint="8" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="83" length="#pocket_depth_from_waist" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="32" id="97" mx="0.610273" my="-2.45507" name="A12" secondPoint="83" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="97" id="99" length="#pocket_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="-2.17437" name="A13" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="99" id="100" length="18" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="-30" angle2="90" color="black" id="101" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="31" point4="100" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="36" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="37" idObject="13" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="38" idObject="22" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="39" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="40" idObject="15" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="41" idObject="21" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="42" idObject="16" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="43" idObject="12" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="44" idObject="20" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="45" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="46" idObject="29" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="47" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="48" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="49" idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="50" idObject="23" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="51" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="52" idObject="32" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="53" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="54" idObject="31" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="56" idObject="27" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="57" idObject="28" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="58" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="59" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="60" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="62" idObject="21" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="63" idObject="23" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="64" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="front_seam" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="62" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="71" idObject="7" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="72" idObject="8" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="73" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="74" idObject="27" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="75" idObject="24" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="76" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="77" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="78" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="79" idObject="34" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="81" idObject="35" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="89" idObject="31" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="95" idObject="32" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="102" idObject="101" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="103" idObject="100" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="104" idObject="99" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="-2.17437" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="105" idObject="97" inUse="false" mx="0.610273" my="-2.45507" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="55" mx="0" my="0" name="front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2"> + <data annotation="Some or all darts can be changed to pleats" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="-860.641" my="1020.96" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%pAnnotation%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-852.203" my="860.641" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="72" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="71" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="36" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="37" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="38" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="39" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="41" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="43" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="46" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="47" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="0" idObject="48" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="0" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="49" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="50" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="51" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="52" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="53" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="54" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="64"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>71</record> + <record>72</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="61" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="B" mx="-3484.65" my="340.019" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-3478.89" my="109.498" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="75" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="74" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="0" idObject="56" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="57" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="58" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" idObject="60" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>74</record> + <record>75</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="80" mx="-4.26945" my="-1.82976" name="facing" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="C" mx="-1926.44" my="142.309" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="AngleLine_A19_A2 - 180" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="2" mx="-1961.25" my="369.961" rotation="AngleLine_A19_A2 - 180" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="76" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="2" idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="2" idObject="78" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="96" mx="56.8095" my="-11.4161" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="-1826.44" my="1108.4" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1828.3" my="920.986" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="102" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="103" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="104" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="95" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dec05d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,117 @@ +The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments +============================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`. + +At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they +have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances +from Valentina used instead. + +All measurements have also been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book +itself. + +Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3 + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle + +Skirts and Trousers +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Riding Habits etc. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +S. B. tight-fitting Jacket +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate +21. + +* :download:`ladies_jacket.val` + +Skirt +^^^^^ + +Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38. + +* :download:`foundation_skirt.val` + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7854452 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val @@ -0,0 +1,521 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Tight Fitting Ladies Jacket</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements>cutters.vit</measurements> + <increments> + <increment description="full length of the garment" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + 25" name="#full_length"/> + <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/> + <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#ease"/> + <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="hip_circ" name="#hips_with_bustle"/> + <increment description="width of the button stand, button side" formula="4" name="#stand_width_buttons"/> + <increment description="width of the button stand, buttonholes side" formula="2.5" name="#stand_width_holes"/> + <increment description="circumference of the sleeve at the elbow" formula="30" name="#sleeve_circ_elbow"/> + <increment formula="24" name="#sleeve_circ_wrist"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point 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<record path="187"/> + <record path="190"/> + <record path="196"/> + <record path="202"/> + <record path="214"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="240" mx="-20.8932" my="1.32422" name="topside_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e9b97690-8894-49cc-8df1-b3eed34ec2e8}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="E" mx="-1060.34" my="814.188" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-1044.05" my="211.689" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="266" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="265" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="231" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="232" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="233" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="234" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="235" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="236" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="237" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="238" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="244" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="239" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="243" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="271"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>265</record> + <record>266</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="262" mx="2.57767" my="0.147135" name="under_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{ebbd3e7c-9d6f-48c8-abe5-ba108e213f39}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="F" mx="-994.115" my="1060.45" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-994.115" my="677.778" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="268" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="267" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="252" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="253" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="254" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="255" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="256" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="257" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="258" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="259" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="260" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="261" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="274"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>267</record> + <record>268</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..89b8387 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +**************************************** + Historical Womenswear Drafting Methods +**************************************** + +Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + cutters/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index d67d4c7..dd4ddf8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -12,3 +12,4 @@ considered womenswear. skirts/index accessories/index + drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val index c1e2e3f..c10a1da 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <pattern labelPrefix="en" passmarkLength=""> - <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> <version>0.9.0</version> <unit>cm</unit> <description>Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf) @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> </patternLabel> - <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements> + <measurements>../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit</measurements> <increments> <increment formula="3" name="#waistband_height"/> <increment formula="3" name="#placket_width"/> @@ -306,7 +306,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <node after="1" idObject="169" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="12"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="2"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="F" mx="-506.416" my="3129.19" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> @@ -322,12 +322,12 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, </nodes> </detail> <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="190" inLayout="false" mx="0.183511" my="20.1862" name="facing_back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c902fb54-8e8b-410d-a464-2005c37fb46c}" version="2" width="2"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-2863.48" my="3146.41" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-3203.17" my="3128.24" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="facing %mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3345.82" my="3155.02" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3636.51" my="3141.39" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> <nodes> <node after="1" before="0" idObject="186" type="NodePoint"/> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index 0ec412f..9c5908a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -55,6 +55,8 @@ Notions Pattern ------- +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -73,8 +75,8 @@ You need to take the following measurements: ``hip_circ`` (G09) circumference of the hips. -the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file -and has the list of needed measurements. +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern ^^^^^^^ |