Shirt: collar band

3 files changed, 146 insertions, 59 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
index 7f87d0b..ddea168 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
@@ -38,6 +38,7 @@ treasury…</company>
         <increment formula="shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b - #cuff_length / 2" name="#sleeve_length"/>
         <increment formula="45" name="#sleeve_width"/>
         <increment formula="30" name="#sleeve_wrist_circumference"/>
+        <increment formula="2" name="#collar_band_height"/>
         <increment formula="0.6" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
     </increments>
     <previewCalculations/>
@@ -116,99 +117,115 @@ treasury…</company>
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@@ -220,6 +237,24 @@ treasury…</company>
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+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="329.869" my="-1367.72" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="171" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="170" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="162" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="163" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="164" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="165" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="166" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="167" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="168" reverse="1" type="NodeArc"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>170</record>
+                    <record>171</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
         </details>
         <groups/>
     </draw>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 268ceb6..57d574d 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -127,6 +127,9 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
 ``sleeve_wrist_circumference``
    the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before
    gathering it into the cuff;
+``collar_band_height``
+   the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2
+   cm is usually fine;
 ``sewing_allowance``
    the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering
    that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be
@@ -140,8 +143,8 @@ from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can
 ignore them.
 
 The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as
-those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements from the
-Draw mode as follows:
+those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements in Draw
+mode as follows:
 
 back:
    a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as
@@ -159,6 +162,11 @@ sleeves:
    ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained
    below.
 
+This pattern also includes just a collar band, which is used with
+detached collars; you can of course add a full collar from any other
+source. There is however a choice between a straight collar band (as
+used in the book) and a more fitted curved collar band.
+
 Instructions
 ------------
 
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/shirt.vit b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/shirt.vit
index 3e3b911..963ac4d 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/shirt.vit
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/shirt.vit
@@ -14,14 +14,14 @@
     </personal>
     <body-measurements>
         <m name="height_neck_back_to_knee" value="100"/>
-        <m name="neck_circ" value="32"/>
+        <m name="neck_circ" value="38"/>
         <m name="bust_circ" value="92"/>
         <m name="neck_front_to_waist_f" value="38"/>
         <m name="neck_side_to_waist_f" value="41.5"/>
-        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="40"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="43"/>
         <m name="shoulder_length" value="11"/>
-        <m name="shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b" value="35.4"/>
-        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="59"/>
-        <m name="arm_wrist_circ" value="16.5"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b" value="38"/>
+        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="80"/>
+        <m name="arm_wrist_circ" value="23"/>
     </body-measurements>
 </vit>