Pattern updates

2 files changed, 68 insertions, 21 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
index a576f4d..7f87d0b 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@
     <description/>
     <notes/>
     <patternName>1880 gentleman's shirt</patternName>
-    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+    <patternNumber/>
     <company>Beeton's housewife's
 treasury…</company>
     <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
@@ -109,6 +109,13 @@ treasury…</company>
             <line firstPoint="104" id="112" lineColor="black" secondPoint="105" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point id="114" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A32" p1Line1="105" p1Line2="101" p2Line1="103" p2Line2="40" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
             <point id="118" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A33" p1Line1="104" p1Line2="99" p2Line1="102" p2Line2="1" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="99" id="122" length="#cuff_length" lineColor="black" mx="-2.81127" my="0.751782" name="A34" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="99" id="123" length="arm_wrist_circ + 2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A35" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="123" id="124" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A36" secondPoint="122" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="122" id="125" length="-#cuff_length * 0.1" lineColor="black" mx="0.501187" my="0.633479" name="A37" secondPoint="124" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="124" id="126" length="-Line_A34_A37" lineColor="black" mx="-3.0594" my="0.330096" name="A38" secondPoint="125" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="123" id="132" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A39" secondPoint="99" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="132" id="133" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A40" secondPoint="122" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
             <point id="24" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
@@ -185,31 +192,34 @@ treasury…</company>
             <point id="89" idObject="76" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="90" idObject="75" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="91" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="93" idObject="78" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="94" idObject="77" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="97" idObject="95" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="98" idObject="96" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="106" idObject="105" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="107" idObject="104" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="108" idObject="102" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="109" idObject="100" inUse="false" mx="-3.34636" my="-2.01042" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="113" idObject="103" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="115" idObject="101" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="116" idObject="114" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="117" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="gusset cut line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+            <point id="97" idObject="95" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="98" idObject="96" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="106" idObject="105" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="107" idObject="104" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="108" idObject="102" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="113" idObject="103" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="115" idObject="101" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="116" idObject="114" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="117" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="gusset cut line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="115" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="116" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="119" idObject="99" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="120" idObject="118" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="121" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="second gusset cut line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+            <point id="119" idObject="99" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="120" idObject="118" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="121" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="second gusset cut line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
+            <point id="127" idObject="126" inUse="true" mx="-3.9943" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="128" idObject="125" inUse="true" mx="0.501187" my="0.633479" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="129" idObject="99" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="130" idObject="123" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="134" idObject="133" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="135" idObject="132" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" inLayout="false" mx="-0.177998" my="-0.707165" name="back" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
@@ -300,6 +310,25 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <record path="121"/>
                 </iPaths>
             </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="131" mx="0" my="0" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="E" mx="-251.224" my="-1417.12" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-553.868" my="-1417.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="135" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="134" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="127" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="128" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="129" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="130" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>134</record>
+                    <record>135</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
         </details>
         <groups/>
     </draw>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 71c4852..268ceb6 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -9,6 +9,13 @@ treasury of domestic information
 <https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_
 from 1880.
 
+While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern
+instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either),
+so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual
+for a modern pattern.
+
+Before making this shirt in expensive fabric 
+
 This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
 seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
 a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but
@@ -155,6 +162,17 @@ sleeves:
 Instructions
 ------------
 
+Pattern adjustments
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Print the shoulder piece pattern and try it on; make any adjustments to
+it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck
+and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving
+the space for the button placket.
+
+You may also want to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then
+bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces.
+
 Cutting
 ^^^^^^^
 
@@ -164,11 +182,11 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
    :align: center
 
 If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the
-best way to cut it is as described on the book: fold the rectangle in
-such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center and bast
-them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a – g and
-h – g is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of fabric
-along the fold.
+best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the
+rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center
+and bast them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a
+– g and h – g is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of
+fabric along the fold.
 
 .. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
    :align: center