More instructions

1 files changed, 59 insertions, 3 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 57d574d..f88f3a1 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -29,8 +29,9 @@ were most definitely a thing.
 If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine
 everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything
 else, or to sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every
-time the instructions say to hemstitch something; buttonholes should
-probably still be done by hand, however.
+time the instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for
+historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however,
+unless that's not a concern.
 
 Materials
 ---------
@@ -184,6 +185,12 @@ bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces.
 Cutting
 ^^^^^^^
 
+.. tip::
+
+   While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular
+   pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip
+   them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread.
+
 Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
 
 .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
@@ -205,12 +212,61 @@ complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this
 won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough
 for it not to be a problem.
 
+.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern_directional.svg
+   :align: center
+
+If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong
+side, you probably need to cut gussets from both sides of the sleeves
+and 
+
 Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
-collar piece and four of each cuff piece.
+collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue.
+
+Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small
+reinforcement patches.
 
 Front
 ^^^^^
 
+Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front.
+
+On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice
+towards the front.
+
+.. note::
+
+   This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket,
+   and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct
+   right or wrong side.
+
+   If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you
+   can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in
+   place instead of applique stitching it.
+
+Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing
+outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half
+the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket
+(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other).  Overlap the
+pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams.
+
+Press everything.
+
+Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line.
+
+Applique stitch the plackets over the seam of the first pleat.
+
+On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from
+each edge.
+
+Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom
+horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers.
+
+With right sides facing backstitch all around the tongue except for the
+top, press, trim the corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and
+press again.
+
+Press the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side
+
 Back
 ^^^^