Start writing pattern for a nightgown

2 files changed, 286 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e18d60a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,135 @@
+Liliana Nightgown
+=================
+
+.. .. figure:: 
+   :align: center
+
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 1 m double width cotton or linen fabric.
+
+Yarn
+^^^^
+
+* Thin crochet cotton or linen yarn.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread matching the yarn;
+* sewing thread matching the fabric.
+
+Yoke Pattern
+------------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+   Bust circumference.
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+   Waist circumference.
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be
+   needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown.
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+   Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+   Circumference at the base of the neck.
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+   Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
+
+the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`.
+
+Fabric Pattern
+--------------
+
+After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end
+of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for
+sewing allowances.
+
+The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance
+measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ``
+measurement, up to the full width of the fabric.
+
+The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length
+of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Yoke
+^^^^
+
+Following the shape of the pattern, ignoring the sewing allowances, make
+the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding
+a decorative pattern to the front.
+
+Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to
+make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with
+sewing allowances.
+
+Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is
+appropriate for the tecnique used.
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the
+body and the two sleeves.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body
+with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the
+fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance.
+
+Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are
+covered and topstitch.
+
+Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*,
+sew about 2 mm from the fold.
+
+Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and
+fold down its top edge.
+
+Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your
+machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use
+that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple
+straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric.
+
+Do the same to the hem of the sleeves.
+
+Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the
+body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any
+scalloped edge of the yoke.
+
+Start in the center back with the flat felled seam and distribute the
+excess fabric into the front by making pleats that face towards the
+sides.
+
+Using the thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag.
+
+Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the
+armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..be2b221
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val
@@ -0,0 +1,151 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.0</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description>Sleeping gown with crochet yoke
+
+Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Liliana Nightgown Yoke</patternName>
+    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+    <company></company>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements>../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit</measurements>
+    <increments/>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="block">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="CurrentLength/8" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A5" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="neck_circ / 6 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="7" id="8" length="1.3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="225" color="black" id="9" length1="4" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="8" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="10" length="across_back_b / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="11" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" name="A9" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="12" mx="1.83487" my="-2.02332" name="A10" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="12" id="13" length="-1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A11" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="8" id="14" lineColor="black" secondPoint="13" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="4" id="15" length="bust_circ / 4 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" secondPoint="10" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="15" id="16" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A13" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A7_A11 - 90" angle2="90" color="black" id="18" length1="3" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="13" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="135" color="black" id="19" length1="5" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="15" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="16" id="20" length="(bust_circ - waist_circ ) / 4 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A15" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="21" length1="8" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="15" point4="20" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="23" length="neck_circ / 6 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A16" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="0" color="black" id="24" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="8" point4="23" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <line firstPoint="13" id="28" lineColor="black" secondPoint="15" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="4" id="125" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="125" curve="21" id="126" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="129" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="-0.421283" my="-2.11797" name="A20" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="8" id="130" lineColor="black" secondPoint="129" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="23" id="131" length="Line_A7_A20" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A7_A11 - 90" color="black" id="132" length1="6" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="131" point4="129" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <operation axisType="1" center="1" id="142" suffix="a1" type="flippingByAxis">
+                <source>
+                    <item idObject="132"/>
+                    <item idObject="129"/>
+                    <item idObject="13"/>
+                    <item idObject="18"/>
+                    <item idObject="11"/>
+                    <item idObject="19"/>
+                    <item idObject="15"/>
+                    <item idObject="21"/>
+                    <item idObject="126"/>
+                </source>
+                <destination>
+                    <item idObject="143"/>
+                    <item idObject="144" mx="-0.421283" my="-2.11797"/>
+                    <item idObject="145" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+                    <item idObject="146"/>
+                    <item idObject="147" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319"/>
+                    <item idObject="148"/>
+                    <item idObject="149" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+                    <item idObject="150"/>
+                    <item idObject="151" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/>
+                </destination>
+            </operation>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="64" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="65" idObject="18" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="66" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="67" idObject="19" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="68" idObject="15" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="69" idObject="21" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="103" idObject="11" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="108" idObject="2" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="109" idObject="20" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="110" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="waist_line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="108" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="109" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+            <point id="133" idObject="131" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="134" idObject="132" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="139" idObject="129" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="140" idObject="126" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="141" idObject="125" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="152" idObject="151" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="153" idObject="150" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="154" idObject="149" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="155" idObject="148" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="156" idObject="147" inUse="true" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="157" idObject="146" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="158" idObject="145" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="159" idObject="144" inUse="true" mx="-0.421283" my="-2.11797" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="160" idObject="143" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="25.1558" my="-0.041815" name="front yoke" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e557f9eb-f417-48c5-9358-94a733d06c35}" version="2" width="1">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="75.235" my="645.375" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Crochet, work %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-172.04" my="645.679" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="133" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="134" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="139" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="64" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="65" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="66" passmark="false" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="two" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="67" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="140" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="141" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="152" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="153" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="154" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="155" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="156" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="157" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="158" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="159" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="160" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="110"/>
+                </iPaths>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>103</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>