diff options
| author | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2024-01-11 10:09:26 +0100 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2024-01-20 19:05:31 +0100 |
| commit | 17b8c8c4fe475e8ffceb3eef1a178b4bca0da77c (patch) | |
| tree | 3b221854e734e186f89dcae93c2d3e22198a1675 /source/contemporary_womenswear | |
| parent | 9cf683beb4f5fa4b4053fb3800288908dbdb30c3 (diff) | |
Jeans adaptation
Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val | 662 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst | 69 |
2 files changed, 698 insertions, 33 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val index 47c8028..0abcf07 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val @@ -14,13 +14,17 @@ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="knee circumference: %finalMeasurement_knee_circ% cm"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="crutch ease: %finalMeasurement_crutch_ease% cm"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> </patternLabel> <finalMeasurements> <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/> <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#crutch_ease" name="crutch_ease"/> <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_knee_width * 2" name="knee_circ"/> </finalMeasurements> <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/> <increments> @@ -28,9 +32,25 @@ <increment formula="5" name="#waist_position"/> <increment formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/> <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/> + <increment formula="#jeans_bottom_width + 4" name="#jeans_knee_width"/> <increment description="3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/> <increment description="4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/> <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#hips_ease"/> + <increment formula="12" name="#pocket_opening_width"/> + <increment formula="7.5" name="#pocket_opening_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#pocket_facing_width"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#pocket_facing_depth"/> + <increment formula="26" name="#pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#pocket_depth_side"/> + <increment formula="9.5" name="#pocket_depth_front"/> + <increment formula="8" name="#coin_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="10" name="#coin_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#fly_piece_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#back_pocket_point_depth"/> + <increment formula="0.5" name="#back_pocket_raster"/> <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> </increments> <previewCalculations/> @@ -44,7 +64,7 @@ <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="6" length="hip_circ / 12" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <point firstPoint="6" id="7" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> <point firstPoint="6" id="8" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> - <point firstPoint="7" id="9" length="hip_circ / 4 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="7" id="9" length="hip_circ / 4 - #hips_ease / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point firstPoint="6" id="10" length="- (hip_circ / 16 - 0.5)" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point firstPoint="8" id="11" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="6" color="cornflowerblue" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="#front_curve_distance" type="simple"/> @@ -53,7 +73,7 @@ <point firstPoint="11" id="15" length="#waist_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="16" length="#jeans_bottom_width / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="280" angle2="90" color="black" id="18" length1="4" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="15" point4="9" type="simpleInteractive"/> - <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="19" length="Line_A3_A12 + 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="19" length="#jeans_knee_width / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <point firstPoint="4" id="20" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="16" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point firstPoint="5" id="21" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="19" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <line firstPoint="19" id="22" lineColor="black" secondPoint="16" typeLine="hair"/> @@ -73,7 +93,7 @@ <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="48" color="cornflowerblue" id="60" penStyle="hair" radius="#back_curve_distance" type="simple"/> <line firstPoint="53" id="61" lineColor="black" secondPoint="51" typeLine="hair"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A19" color="black" id="62" length1="8" length2="12" penStyle="hair" point1="59" point4="51" type="simpleInteractive"/> - <point firstPoint="49" id="63" length="hip_circ / 4 + 1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="49" id="63" length="hip_circ / 4 + #hips_ease * 1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point firstPoint="16" id="64" length="-2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A26" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point firstPoint="19" id="65" length="-2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A27" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="280" angle2="90" color="black" id="66" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="55" point4="63" type="simpleInteractive"/> @@ -84,7 +104,7 @@ <line firstPoint="69" id="71" lineColor="black" secondPoint="70" typeLine="hair"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A28_A29" angle2="290" color="black" id="72" length1="10" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="70" point4="59" type="simpleInteractive"/> <point firstPoint="53" id="73" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.321201" my="-2.33678" name="A30" secondPoint="55" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> - <point angle="0" firstPoint="73" id="74" length="6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A31" secondPoint="53" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" firstPoint="73" id="74" length="6" lineColor="black" mx="0.183627" my="0.315919" name="A31" secondPoint="53" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> <point firstPoint="73" id="75" length="0.75" lineColor="black" mx="-2.27381" my="-2.14152" name="A32" secondPoint="53" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point firstPoint="73" id="76" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="1.53378" my="-2.04389" name="A33" secondPoint="75" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point angle="180" basePoint="3" curve="62" id="103" lineColor="black" mx="1.04563" my="-2.14152" name="A34" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> @@ -107,12 +127,142 @@ <item idObject="109" mx="-0.321201" my="-2.33678"/> <item idObject="110" mx="1.53378" my="-2.04389"/> <item idObject="111" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/> - <item idObject="112" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/> + <item idObject="112" mx="0.264583" my="0.307823"/> </destination> </operation> <line firstPoint="106" id="114" lineColor="black" secondPoint="107" typeLine="hair"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A19a1_A21a1 + 180" color="black" id="115" length1="8" length2="12" penStyle="hair" point1="59" point4="106" type="simpleInteractive"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="80" color="black" id="120" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="112" point4="63" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point id="127" length="#waistband_depth" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B1" showLabel="true" spline="18" type="cutSpline"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="128" length="#waistband_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B2" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="128" id="129" length="1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B3" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="127" id="130" length="#pocket_opening_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B4" secondPoint="129" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="131" length="Spl_A11_B1 + #pocket_opening_depth" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B5" showLabel="true" spline="18" type="cutSpline"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_B1_B4 + 90" angle2="180" color="black" id="132" length1="5" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="130" point4="131" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="130" id="133" length="#pocket_facing_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B4a" secondPoint="129" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="134" length="Spl_A11_B1 + #pocket_opening_depth + #pocket_facing_depth" mx="0.507456" my="-1.70799" name="B5a" showLabel="true" spline="18" type="cutSpline"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="135" length="#pocket_depth_front" lineColor="black" mx="-1.59741" my="-1.06034" name="C1" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="136" length="#pocket_depth_side - Spl_A11_A8" mx="1.23606" my="-0.169819" name="C2" showLabel="true" spline="23" type="cutSpline"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="130" id="137" length="#pocket_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180 + 45" angle2="0" color="black" id="138" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="136" point4="137" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="0" color="black" id="139" length1="10" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="137" point4="135" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="140" length="#fly_piece_width" lineColor="black" mx="-0.140199" my="1.04453" name="C4" secondPoint="15" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="141" length="Spl_A9_A6 - 2" mx="-3.20206" my="-1.8699" name="C5" showLabel="true" spline="14" type="cutSpline"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A10_A6 + 90" basePoint="141" id="142" length="#fly_piece_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point id="148" mx="-2.32602" my="0.639744" name="C7" p1Line1="1" p1Line2="127" p2Line1="2" p2Line2="129" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_B1_B4 + 90" angle2="180" color="black" id="150" length1="7" length2="12" penStyle="hair" point1="133" point4="134" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="127" id="158" length="#pocket_opening_depth + #pocket_facing_depth / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.40698" my="-0.898426" name="C8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="107" id="203" length="#waistband_depth" lineColor="black" mx="-2.81176" my="-1.62703" name="B6" secondPoint="106" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="204" length="#waistband_depth" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B7" showLabel="true" spline="120" type="cutSpline"/> + <point firstPoint="203" id="205" length="7" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B8" secondPoint="106" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="206" length="#waistband_depth + 3" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B9" showLabel="true" spline="120" type="cutSpline"/> + <point id="209" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C9" p1Line1="1" p1Line2="205" p2Line1="2" p2Line2="206" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="211" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C10" p1Line1="205" p1Line2="109" p2Line1="206" p2Line2="111" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="212" mx="1.33321" my="-1.47322" name="C11" p1Line1="203" p1Line2="110" p2Line1="204" p2Line2="111" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="213" mx="-2.58508" my="-2.45279" name="C12" p1Line1="203" p1Line2="108" p2Line1="204" p2Line2="111" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <line firstPoint="212" id="214" lineColor="black" secondPoint="213" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="211" id="215" lineColor="black" secondPoint="212" typeLine="hair"/> + <operation angle="-asinD(Line_C11_C12/Line_C10_C11/2)" center="211" id="216" suffix="a2" type="rotation"> + <source> + <item idObject="205"/> + <item idObject="203"/> + </source> + <destination> + <item idObject="217" mx="0.531739" my="-1.20606"/> + <item idObject="218" mx="1.28463" my="-1.44893"/> + </destination> + </operation> + <line firstPoint="218" id="219" lineColor="black" secondPoint="217" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="204" id="220" lineColor="black" secondPoint="206" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_B6a2_B8a2 + 90" angle2="AngleLine_B7_B9 - 90" color="black" id="221" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="218" point4="204" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_B6a2_B8a2 + 90" angle2="AngleLine_B7_B9 - 90" color="black" id="222" length1="3" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="217" point4="206" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A30a1_C10" basePoint="109" curve="221" id="232" lineColor="black" mx="1.68941" my="-2.809" name="C13" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="209" id="237" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C14" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="237" id="238" length="#back_pocket_depth" lineColor="black" mx="-3.16392" my="-0.190868" name="C15" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="238" id="239" length="#back_pocket_point_depth" lineColor="black" mx="-2.87005" my="-0.680654" name="C16" secondPoint="237" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="237" id="240" length="#back_pocket_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C17" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="238" id="241" length="#back_pocket_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C18" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="239" id="242" length="#back_pocket_width - #back_pocket_raster" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C19" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="239" id="243" length="#back_pocket_raster" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C20" secondPoint="242" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="237" id="257" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C21" secondPoint="240" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="4" id="260" length="#waistband_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="260" id="261" length="(Line_B1_B4 + Line_B4_B3+ Spl_B6a2_B7 ) * 2 - (#waist_circ)" lineColor="black" mx="-3.49309" my="0.599993" name="Dw_diff" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="262" length="#waist_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="1.01886" my="0.181373" name="D2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="4" id="263" length="#waist_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="-2.21374" my="0.396873" name="D3" secondPoint="262" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="263" id="264" mx="-2.33128" my="0.0638207" name="D4" secondPoint="260" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="262" id="265" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D5" secondPoint="260" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <operation angle="radTodeg(Line_D1_Dw_diff / 6 / #waistband_depth)" center="4" id="266" suffix="a3" type="rotation"> + <source> + <item idObject="263"/> + <item idObject="262"/> + <item idObject="265"/> + <item idObject="264"/> + <item idObject="260"/> + </source> + <destination> + <item idObject="267" mx="-2.86025" my="-2.4047"/> + <item idObject="268" mx="1.01886" my="0.181373"/> + <item idObject="269" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/> + <item idObject="270" mx="-3.61452" my="-1.86594"/> + <item idObject="271" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/> + </destination> + </operation> + <operation angle="radTodeg(Line_D1_Dw_diff / 3 / #waistband_depth)" center="267" id="272" suffix="a4" type="rotation"> + <source> + <item idObject="268"/> + <item idObject="269"/> + <item idObject="270"/> + </source> + <destination> + <item idObject="273" mx="1.01886" my="0.181373"/> + <item idObject="274" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/> + <item idObject="275" mx="0.15683" my="-2.83571"/> + </destination> + </operation> + <point firstPoint="270" id="276" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="2.7429" my="-0.465148" name="D6" secondPoint="275" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="267" id="277" length="#waistband_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D7" secondPoint="276" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_D3a3_D7 - 90" color="black" id="278" length1="8" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="4" point4="267" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <line firstPoint="273" id="279" lineColor="black" secondPoint="274" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_D3a3_D7 + 90" angle2="AngleLine_D2a3a4_D5a3a4 - 90" color="black" id="280" length1="6" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="267" point4="273" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_D2a3a4_D5a3a4 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_D3a3_D7 + 90" color="black" id="281" length1="4" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="274" point4="277" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_D3a3_D7 - 90" angle2="0" color="black" id="282" length1="6" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="277" point4="260" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <operation axisType="1" center="4" id="284" suffix="a5" type="flippingByAxis"> + <source> + <item idObject="278"/> + <item idObject="267"/> + <item idObject="280"/> + <item idObject="273"/> + <item idObject="274"/> + <item idObject="281"/> + <item idObject="277"/> + <item idObject="282"/> + </source> + <destination> + <item idObject="285"/> + <item idObject="286" mx="-2.86025" my="-2.4047"/> + <item idObject="287"/> + <item idObject="288" mx="1.01886" my="0.181373"/> + <item idObject="289" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/> + <item idObject="290"/> + <item idObject="291" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/> + <item idObject="292"/> + </destination> + </operation> + <point firstPoint="288" id="294" length="-#fly_piece_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D8" secondPoint="286" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" firstPoint="294" id="295" length="-#waistband_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D9" secondPoint="286" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="260" id="323" length="(Line_B1_B4 + Line_B4_B3+ Spl_B6a2_B7 ) * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D10" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="260" id="324" length="#waistband_depth * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D11" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="323" id="325" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D12" secondPoint="324" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="324" id="326" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D13" secondPoint="325" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="326" id="327" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D14" secondPoint="325" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="324" id="328" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D15" secondPoint="326" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="260" id="329" length="#fly_piece_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D16" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="329" id="330" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D17" secondPoint="324" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="324" id="355" length="#coin_pocket_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="324" id="356" length="#coin_pocket_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="356" id="357" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E3" secondPoint="355" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="129" id="363" length="#fly_piece_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C4a" secondPoint="127" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="AngleLine_A10_A6 - 180" color="black" id="364" length1="5" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="363" point4="142" type="simpleInteractive"/> </calculation> <modeling> <point id="26" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> @@ -136,7 +286,6 @@ <node idObject="41" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> </path> - <point id="43" idObject="1" inUse="false" type="pin"/> <point id="44" idObject="4" inUse="false" type="pin"/> <point id="45" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> <point id="46" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> @@ -154,7 +303,6 @@ <point id="85" idObject="70" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> <spline id="86" idObject="72" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> <point id="87" idObject="59" inUse="false" mx="-2.66434" my="0.299244" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> - <point id="91" idObject="1" inUse="false" type="pin"/> <point id="92" idObject="4" inUse="false" type="pin"/> <point id="97" idObject="49" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> <point id="98" idObject="63" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> @@ -173,20 +321,164 @@ </nodes> </path> <spline id="116" idObject="115" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> - <point id="118" idObject="107" inUse="false" mx="-2.95723" my="-1.84863" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> - <point id="119" idObject="112" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> <spline id="121" idObject="120" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> <point id="122" idObject="106" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> - <point id="123" idObject="108" inUse="false" mx="-2.27381" my="-2.14152" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> - <point id="124" idObject="111" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> - <point id="125" idObject="110" inUse="false" mx="1.53378" my="-2.04389" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> - <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="126" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <point id="144" idObject="131" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="145" idObject="132" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="146" idObject="130" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="147" idObject="129" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="149" idObject="148" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="151" idObject="133" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="152" idObject="127" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="153" idObject="134" inUse="false" mx="0.507456" my="-1.70799" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="154" idObject="150" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <spline id="156" idObject="132" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="157" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="front_alignment" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="156" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="159" idObject="127" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="160" idObject="158" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="161" idObject="129" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="162" idObject="130" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="163" idObject="132" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="164" idObject="131" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="165" idObject="18" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="166" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="167" idObject="23" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="168" idObject="136" inUse="false" mx="1.23606" my="-0.169819" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="169" idObject="138" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="170" idObject="137" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="171" idObject="139" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="172" idObject="135" inUse="false" mx="-1.59741" my="-1.06034" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="174" idObject="135" inUse="false" mx="-1.59741" my="-1.06034" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="175" idObject="136" inUse="false" mx="1.23606" my="-0.169819" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="176" idObject="130" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="177" idObject="137" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="178" idObject="129" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="179" idObject="127" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="180" idObject="18" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="181" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="182" idObject="23" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="183" idObject="136" inUse="false" mx="1.23606" my="-0.169819" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="184" idObject="138" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="185" idObject="137" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="186" idObject="139" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="187" idObject="135" inUse="false" mx="-1.59741" my="-1.06034" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="189" idObject="130" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="190" idObject="137" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="194" idObject="142" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="195" idObject="141" inUse="false" mx="-3.13558" my="-1.8699" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="196" idObject="14" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="197" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="200" idObject="142" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="207" idObject="205" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="208" idObject="206" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="210" idObject="209" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="223" idObject="218" inUse="false" mx="1.28463" my="-1.44893" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="224" idObject="221" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="225" idObject="204" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="226" idObject="120" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="227" idObject="206" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="228" idObject="222" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="229" idObject="217" inUse="false" mx="0.531739" my="-1.20606" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="235" idObject="232" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="236" idObject="211" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="244" idObject="237" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="245" idObject="240" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="246" idObject="242" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="247" idObject="241" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="248" idObject="243" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="249" idObject="237" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="250" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="pocket" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="244" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="245" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="246" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="247" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="248" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="249" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="251" idObject="237" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="252" idObject="240" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="253" idObject="242" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="254" idObject="241" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="255" idObject="243" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="258" idObject="257" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="259" idObject="241" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="296" idObject="294" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="297" idObject="288" inUse="false" mx="1.01886" my="0.181373" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="298" idObject="287" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="299" idObject="286" inUse="false" mx="-2.86025" my="-2.4047" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="300" idObject="285" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="301" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="302" idObject="278" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="303" idObject="267" inUse="false" mx="-2.86025" my="-2.4047" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="304" idObject="280" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="305" idObject="273" inUse="false" mx="1.01886" my="0.181373" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="306" idObject="274" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="307" idObject="281" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="308" idObject="277" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="309" idObject="282" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="310" idObject="260" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="311" idObject="292" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="312" idObject="291" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="313" idObject="290" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="314" idObject="289" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="315" idObject="295" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="317" idObject="288" inUse="false" mx="1.01886" my="0.181373" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="318" idObject="289" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="319" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="center_front" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="317" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="318" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="320" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="321" idObject="260" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="322" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="center_back" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="320" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="321" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="331" idObject="329" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="332" idObject="260" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="333" idObject="323" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="334" idObject="325" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="335" idObject="327" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="336" idObject="326" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="337" idObject="328" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="338" idObject="324" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="339" idObject="330" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="341" idObject="260" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="342" idObject="324" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="343" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="center_front" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1"> <nodes> - <node idObject="123" type="NodePoint"/> - <node idObject="124" type="NodePoint"/> - <node idObject="125" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="341" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="342" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> </path> + <point id="344" idObject="141" inUse="false" mx="-3.13558" my="-1.8699" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="345" idObject="14" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="348" idObject="142" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="349" idObject="141" inUse="false" mx="-3.13558" my="-1.8699" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="350" idObject="14" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="351" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="358" idObject="324" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="359" idObject="356" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="360" idObject="357" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="361" idObject="355" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="365" idObject="364" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="366" idObject="363" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="368" idObject="363" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="369" idObject="129" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="370" idObject="129" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="371" idObject="363" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="372" idObject="363" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="373" idObject="142" inUse="false" type="pin"/> </modeling> <details> <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="39" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{aca767c9-bc8e-4412-8050-3ab799c177a2}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> @@ -196,42 +488,50 @@ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> </data> <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="26.6224" my="642.636" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> - <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="44" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="43" visible="true"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="44" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="149" visible="true"/> <nodes> - <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> - <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="147" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="146" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="145" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="144" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="28" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="175" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="30" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="32" type="NodePoint"/> - <node idObject="33" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance " idObject="33" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="34" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="35" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> <node idObject="36" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="345" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="344" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="37" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> <node idObject="38" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="174" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> <iPaths> <record path="42"/> <record path="47"/> </iPaths> <pins> - <record>43</record> <record>44</record> + <record>149</record> </pins> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="90" mx="41.2065" my="-0.419404" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{d7421c46-845c-4ec6-825a-830838baea80}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="90" mx="41.4436" my="-0.419404" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{d7421c46-845c-4ec6-825a-830838baea80}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="31.703" my="1030.35" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> </data> <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="35.6659" my="645.948" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> - <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="92" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="91" visible="true"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="92" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="210" visible="true"/> <nodes> - <node idObject="118" type="NodePoint"/> - <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="207" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="208" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="121" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> <node idObject="80" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> @@ -247,25 +547,331 @@ <iPaths> <record path="99"/> <record path="102"/> - <record path="126"/> + <record path="250"/> </iPaths> <pins> - <record>91</record> <record>92</record> + <record>210</record> </pins> </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="155" mx="13.7493" my="-4.6226" name="front_side_piece" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{1cfccc36-c8a6-44ce-a7c1-c2e0a70a7c59}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="218.6" my="257.505" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="429.151" my="257.505" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="160" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="159" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="0" idObject="151" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="152" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" idObject="153" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="154" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="157"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>159</record> + <record>160</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="173" mx="-6.28199" my="-34.9658" name="pocket_bag_1" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{db546f6e-8a8c-4ede-87fb-265feafb876b}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="D" mx="174.712" my="509.292" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Pocketing, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="-71.6768" my="504.813" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="177" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="176" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="162" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="163" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="164" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="165" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="166" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="167" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="168" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="169" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="170" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="171" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="172" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>176</record> + <record>177</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="188" mx="23.5871" my="-37.0993" name="pocket_bag_2" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{85fc8b74-f9d1-46ee-b415-a5047ca90df9}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="E" mx="179.192" my="436.855" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Pocketing, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="-67.1971" my="427.896" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="190" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="189" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="178" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="179" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="180" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="181" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="182" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="183" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="184" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="185" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="186" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="187" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>189</record> + <record>190</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="198" mx="-10.6675" my="-1.06675" name="fly_facing" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{9838f0fb-6f4a-4078-b917-d646466eaab2}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="F" mx="-239.468" my="391.077" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="3"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="-222.524" my="260.217" rotation="0" visible="true" width="3"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="200" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="371" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="369" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="366" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="365" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="194" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="196" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="197" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>200</record> + <record>371</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="230" mx="43.0127" my="-6.98009" name="back_yoke" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{94e22e5c-fcf4-4810-9826-4fd369810633}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="I" mx="380.783" my="98.5557" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="-26.8788" my="0" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="236" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="235" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="223" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="224" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="225" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="226" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="227" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="228" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="229" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>235</record> + <record>236</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="256" mx="48.6437" my="-38.8041" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{527a0e85-4faf-4d08-88c8-dbb65d45cd65}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="8" letter="J" mx="377.129" my="369.44" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="8"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="8" mx="62.8548" my="364.202" rotation="0" visible="true" width="8"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="259" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="258" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="251" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="252" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="253" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="254" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="255" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>258</record> + <record>259</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="316" inLayout="false" mx="21.0743" my="32.8712" name="shaped_waistband" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{81da4b94-5b76-49bf-8a87-2be10cff1848}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="L" mx="48.9348" my="3827.08" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="-217.488" my="3827.08" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="296" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="297" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="298" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="299" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="300" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="301" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="302" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="303" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="304" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="305" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="306" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="307" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="308" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="309" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="310" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="311" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="312" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="313" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="314" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="315" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="319"/> + <record path="322"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="340" mx="0" my="0.863156" name="waistband" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7a60e787-7551-4600-a6ef-f2cbe9d939b1}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="K" mx="521.971" my="3992.99" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="103.307" my="3998.42" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="331" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="332" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="333" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="334" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="335" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="336" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="337" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="338" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="339" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="343"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="352" mx="-20.9868" my="-2.00376" name="fly_extension" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7890f179-b3e3-4d27-843c-8f09dc4c9dbb}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="G" mx="-244.128" my="387.849" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="3"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="-230.405" my="261.98" rotation="0" visible="true" width="3"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="373" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="372" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="370" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" idObject="368" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="0" idObject="348" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="349" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="350" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="351" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>372</record> + <record>373</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="362" mx="-23.1365" my="-130.579" name="coin_pocket" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7571a314-782f-41d8-8145-10642a70705b}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="H" mx="83.8514" my="4455.02" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="83.8514" my="4275.34" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="358" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="359" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="360" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="361" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> </details> <groups> - <group id="113" name="crutch_ease" tool="104" visible="true"> + <group id="113" name="crutch_ease" tool="104" visible="false"> <item tool="51"/> <item tool="53"/> <item tool="55"/> + <item tool="61"/> + <item tool="62"/> <item tool="73"/> <item tool="74"/> <item tool="75"/> <item tool="76"/> <item tool="103"/> </group> + <group id="201" name="fly_piece" visible="true"> + <item tool="140"/> + <item tool="141"/> + <item tool="142"/> + <item tool="363"/> + <item tool="364"/> + </group> + <group id="202" name="pocket" visible="false"> + <item tool="130"/> + <item tool="131"/> + <item tool="132"/> + <item tool="133"/> + <item tool="134"/> + <item tool="135"/> + <item tool="136"/> + <item tool="137"/> + <item tool="138"/> + <item tool="139"/> + <item tool="148"/> + <item tool="150"/> + <item tool="158"/> + </group> + <group id="231" name="back_yoke" visible="false"> + <item tool="211"/> + <item tool="212"/> + <item tool="213"/> + <item tool="214"/> + <item tool="215"/> + <item object="217" tool="216"/> + <item object="218" tool="216"/> + <item tool="221"/> + <item tool="222"/> + <item tool="232"/> + </group> + <group id="283" name="back_pocket" visible="false"> + <item tool="237"/> + <item tool="238"/> + <item tool="239"/> + <item tool="240"/> + <item tool="241"/> + <item tool="242"/> + <item tool="243"/> + <item tool="257"/> + </group> + <group id="293" name="curved_waistband" tool="284" visible="false"> + <item object="267" tool="266"/> + <item object="268" tool="266"/> + <item object="269" tool="266"/> + <item object="270" tool="266"/> + <item object="271" tool="266"/> + <item object="273" tool="272"/> + <item object="274" tool="272"/> + <item object="275" tool="272"/> + <item tool="276"/> + <item tool="277"/> + <item tool="278"/> + <item tool="279"/> + <item tool="280"/> + <item tool="281"/> + <item tool="282"/> + <item object="285" tool="284"/> + <item object="286" tool="284"/> + <item object="287" tool="284"/> + <item object="288" tool="284"/> + <item object="289" tool="284"/> + <item object="290" tool="284"/> + <item object="291" tool="284"/> + <item object="292" tool="284"/> + <item tool="294"/> + <item tool="295"/> + </group> </groups> </draw> </pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst index 1aa4e7d..bc090b7 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -6,7 +6,8 @@ Basic Jeans These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`, -drafted +drafted for a body shape that requires more space on the back than on +the front. The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can be adjusted to go to the natural waist. @@ -65,7 +66,12 @@ Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`basic_jeans.val`. In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following -increments: +increments; for styling you probably want to change ``waist_position`` +(and the related ``waist_circ``), ``jeans_bottom_width`` (and possibly +the related ``jeans_knee_width``) and ``hips_ease``; for curvier people +you may need to change ``front_curve_distance``, ``back_curve_distance`` +and / or crutch_ease, for everything else the default should be +generally fine: ``waistband_depth`` height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm; @@ -77,13 +83,52 @@ increments: ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm; ``jeans_bottom_width`` width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a - straight cut on average sizes; + straight cut on average sizes, make sure that it is at least as wide + as the diagonal circumference across the heel and ankle; +``jeans_knee_width`` + width at the knee (half the circumference): 2 cm more than the hem, + but it can be increased a bit for skinny jeans where the hem is quite + narrow; ``front_curve_distance`` 3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise; ``back_curve_distance`` 4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise; ``crutch_ease`` 5 or 6 cm; +``hips_ease`` + added ease at the hips, per side, e.g. 1 cm; +``pocket_opening_width`` + how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm; +``pocket_opening_depth`` + how deep the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; +``pocket_facing_width`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm; +``pocket_facing_depth`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; +``pocket_depth_side`` + where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; +``pocket_depth_front`` + where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``coin_pocket_width`` + how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm; +``coin_pocket_depth`` + how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm; +``fly_piece_width`` + the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm; +``back_pocket_width`` + the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_depth`` + the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_point_depth`` + the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom + lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm; +``back_pocket_raster`` + how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom + lines, e.g. 0.5 cm; ``sewing_allowance`` enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. @@ -93,8 +138,22 @@ A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs. Instructions ------------ -See the instructions for the -Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index` +Follow the instructions for the +Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`. + +.. tip:: + + If you want to make a quick mockup, you can do so with the :ref:`block + used to draft the jeans <aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans>`, + as that only uses four pieces, but can be used to double check the + measurements. Be sure to set the increments to the same values as in the + jeans pattern. + +When sewing the waistband you may want to add a third piece of elastic +at the center back, just like the two on the side seams. +Alternatively, there is a shaped waistband variant: to use that cut two +pieces, right sides together sew the top seam, and then treat it as the +straight waistband, skipping the elastic. Gallery ------- |