More shift instructions

1 files changed, 22 insertions, 11 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index d3ce260..bcad59a 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -133,13 +133,13 @@ side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam:
 
 fold down one allowance from the body towards the wrong side and press;
 fold down one allowance from the gore towards the *right* side and
-press; wrong sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it
-so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the gore to
-the body from the wrong side.
+press; right sides together put the body on top of the gore, aligning it
+so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to
+the gore from the wrong side of the body.
 
-Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of
-the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the body to the gore to fell
-the seam.
+Press the seam open, so that the fold of the gore covers the raw edge of
+the body, and hemstitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the
+seam.
 
 Bosom Gores
 ^^^^^^^^^^^
@@ -159,6 +159,15 @@ and applique-stitch from the right side
 
 and hemstitch from the wrong side.
 
+Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the
+wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them.
+
+Gussets
+^^^^^^^
+
+Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
+mitering the corners, hemstitch.
+
 Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^
 
@@ -170,13 +179,15 @@ make box pleats 2 cm ? wide and 6 mm ? deep to
 distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands, leaving at
 least 4 time the allowance unpleated near the side edges.
 
-Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve.
+Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve, sew a running stitch
+at less than one allowance from both edges to keep the pleats in place.
 
-Gussets
-^^^^^^^
+Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back,
+press.
+
+Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and
+applique stitch the folded edge.
 
-Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
-mitering the corners, hemstitch.
 
 Shoulder Straps
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^