More shift instructions

1 files changed, 44 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index bb6ff71..f9d2692 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -200,16 +200,60 @@ the band and stopping at the pin.
 Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem
 all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners.
 
+Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing
+all raw edges.
+
 Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides
 together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the
 gusset and the other side of the sleeve.
 
+.. tip::
+   Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam,
+   when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on the three
+   other raw edges.
+
+   Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners.
+
+   Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and
+   whipstitch until the end of the gusset;
+
+   then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right
+   sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and
+   continuing into the sleeve.
+
+   And then finish the band as above.
+
+   This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the
+   sleeve seam three times instead of one; the same method could also be
+   used for the side seams of the shift, below, but there the additional
+   work starts to be significant, since the seam is much longer.
+
 Shoulder Straps
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
 Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side,
 mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch.
 
+Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap.
+
+Side seams
+^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of tbe
+back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and
+mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece.
+
+Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores.
+
+Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece
+over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is
+one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the
+back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and
+stopping at the point marked for the gusset.
+
+Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the back, and
+hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners.
+
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^