diff options
| author | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2023-08-22 20:25:57 +0200 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2024-01-07 10:47:55 +0100 |
| commit | 5eb60325377f0b77d4274ef4bfd7b1c26f4ac7e4 (patch) | |
| tree | 70c5e07b2581c6f8e7b6613c9681d1b16db7bee8 | |
| parent | ebefff7726775f763f1c1a6972073c0eabc0b3aa (diff) | |
Corset pattern
4 files changed, 949 insertions, 53 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..404f5f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt @@ -0,0 +1,367 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<!--Layout created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> +<layout version="0.1.2"> + <properties> + <unit>cm</unit> + <title></title> + <description></description> + <control warningSuperposition="true" warningOutOfBound="true" stickyEdges="true" piecesGap="18.8976" followGrainline="false"/> + <tiles visible="true" matchingMarks="standard" printScheme="true" tileNumber="true"> + <size width="1122.52" length="793.701"/> + <margin/> + </tiles> + <scale xScale="1" yScale="1"/> + <watermark showPreview="true"></watermark> + </properties> + <unplacedPieces> + <piece 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Materials --------- @@ -19,8 +20,9 @@ Notions * strong sewing thread to match the fabric; * boning: either ~ 14 m 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 10 mmspiral - steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel; -* one steel busk; + steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel (precise amounts will depend on the + height of the corset); +* one steel busk to fit the center front height; * ~ 4 m 25 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same amount premade boning channel tape; * less than 1 m 10 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; @@ -138,15 +140,44 @@ table of variables: Instructions ------------ +Mockup +^^^^^^ + +If this is the first time you're making a corset from this pattern it's +strongly recommended that you start by making a mockup: + Cutting ^^^^^^^ -Cut 2 of panels 2-5, cut 2 of panels 1 and 5 *on the fold* (both the -center front and the center back panels will have two layers, everything -else will be single layer). +Making sure to follow the grainline, cut 2 each of panels 2-6, 1 of panels 1 +left, right and right facing (both the center front and the center back +panels will have two layers, everything else will be single layer). + +Note that the pattern is for a corset with internal boning channels: if +making external boning channels you will have to mirror all panel 1 +pieces. + +Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. Optionally +mark also the center panel line (grainline) if you want to add boning on +it. + +Busk Insertion +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Panels +^^^^^^ + +Boning +^^^^^^ -Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. +Lacing holes +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Binding +^^^^^^^ +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ Variants -------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit index 27a24d8..ccb1b45 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit @@ -18,8 +18,8 @@ <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/> <m name="highhip_circ" value="90"/> <m name="hip_circ" value="90"/> - <m name="bust_arc_f" value="50"/> - <m name="lowbust_arc_f" value="35"/> + <m name="bust_arc_f" value="42"/> + <m name="lowbust_arc_f" value="36"/> <m name="waist_arc_f" value="35"/> <m name="highhip_arc_f" value="45"/> <m name="hip_arc_f" value="45"/> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val index 534577f..a81329b 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val @@ -5,13 +5,24 @@ <unit>cm</unit> <description/> <notes/> + <patternName>Midbust corset</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> <increments> <increment formula="bust_to_waist_f + 1" name="#waist_to_top_f"/> - <increment formula="armpit_to_waist_side - 4" name="#waist_to_top_side"/> + <increment formula="min(armpit_to_waist_side - 4;#waist_to_top_f - 4)" name="#waist_to_top_side"/> <increment formula="#waist_to_top_f" name="#waist_to_top_b"/> - <increment formula="(waist_to_highhip_f + waist_to_hip_f) / 2" name="#waist_to_bottom_f"/> - <increment formula="waist_to_highhip_f " name="#waist_to_bottom_side"/> + <increment formula="(waist_to_highhip_f + waist_to_hip_f) * 0.4" name="#waist_to_bottom_f"/> + <increment formula="waist_to_highhip_f - 0.5" name="#waist_to_bottom_side"/> <increment formula="#waist_to_bottom_f" name="#waist_to_bottom_b"/> <increment 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