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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2025-08-12 19:17:00 +0200
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2025-08-12 19:17:00 +0200
commit4fd51853707f27c9e908a9afad3776af09acab2e (patch)
treea2074f45cad3d1f7a11481395a53d1f7781c2ab9
parent91ea7a74175adcffcf524da988594179ca912941 (diff)
Added step-by-step pictures for the 1838 drawers
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpgbin0 -> 733644 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpgbin0 -> 670748 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpgbin0 -> 673224 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpgbin0 -> 1082100 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpgbin0 -> 704286 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpgbin0 -> 700790 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpgbin0 -> 683473 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpgbin0 -> 678853 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpgbin0 -> 837872 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpgbin0 -> 679476 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst49
11 files changed, 39 insertions, 10 deletions
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
index 56aff5b..04568a0 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
@@ -75,22 +75,36 @@ Instructions
Cutting
^^^^^^^
+
+
.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're
cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same.
Legs
^^^^
+.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that
the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running
backstich.
+.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of
the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch.
+.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming
stitch.
+.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side,
sew with a hemming stitch.
@@ -100,13 +114,19 @@ Assembly
Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing
allowance towards the inside on both long ends.
+.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the
short ends, press and turn inside out.
-Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern; run
-separate gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back
-of the legs; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and
-pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio.
+.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G);
+run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of
+each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass
+over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio.
.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center
of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness
@@ -116,14 +136,25 @@ pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio.
Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big
needle or a pin.
+.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends
by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter
points.
+.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance,
matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and
overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if
-it's on the front. Distribute the gathers and whipstitch the leg to the
+it's on the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the
waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the
back.
@@ -134,6 +165,9 @@ back.
Finishing
^^^^^^^^^
+.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband.
Variants
@@ -146,8 +180,3 @@ Gallery
See also
--------
-
-* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/
-* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/
-* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/
-* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797