Shift: instructions

2 files changed, 80 insertions, 2 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index 9e46db4..97a715f 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -75,7 +75,8 @@ included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows).
 
 Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd
 reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table
-and measuring them directly on the fabric.
+and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just
+the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore.
 
 Instructions
 ------------
@@ -83,11 +84,88 @@ Instructions
 Cutting
 ^^^^^^^
 
+Measure and cut the front and back from the full width of the fabric,
+side to side on wide fabric or one on top of the other on narrow.
 
+If the sleeves fit nicely in the width of the fabric cut them
+horizontally, if making more than one shift it may be more convenient to
+cut them vertically.
+
+Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and
+bosom gores from the rest of the fabric.
+
+.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`1838_drawers` note that
+   many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the drawers.
+
+.. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be
+   cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the
+   latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave
+   more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or
+   other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps cut in
+   one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance on
+   the middle, and sew them together before continuing.
+
+Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are
+perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the
+middle of the side seam, open it again. 
+
+Fold the fabric in half on the vertical and carefully align all four
+edges, measure on the top edge, from the side, the width of the gore and
+cut a triangle from there to a point 3-4 cm below the middle of the
+body.
+
+.. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle
+   of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing
+   allowances this gives a seam 
 
 .. figure:: shift_layout.svg
    :align: center
 
+Gores
+^^^^^
+
+Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which
+side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam:
+
+fold down one allowance from the body towards the wrong side and press;
+fold down one allowance from the gore towards the *right* side and
+press; wrong sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it
+so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the gore to
+the body from the wrong side.
+
+Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of
+the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the body to the gore to fell
+the seam.
+
+Bosom Gores
+^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped
+slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the
+bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts).
+
+Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side
+by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about
+one allowance wide.
+
+Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance.
+
+Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place
+and applique-stitch from the right side
+
+and hemstitch from the wrong side.
+
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+
+Gussets
+^^^^^^^
+
+Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
+mitering the corners, hemstitch.
+
+
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^
 
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val
index f02eb1c..e0b10eb 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val
@@ -39,7 +39,7 @@
             <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#width_of_fabric / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="3" length="#shift_length - #shoulder_strap_length + 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="2" id="4" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
-            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2 + 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="2" id="6" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="1" id="7" length="#side_gore" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="2" id="8" length="Line_A_A6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>