Fitting jersey top: new pattern

12 files changed, 457 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst
index 0ed5993..34ee605 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst
@@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts.
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
 
+   tops/index
    trousers/index
    underwear/index
    drafting_methods/index
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2ef686d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c0fa1f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bb6a109
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7209312
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0a8c05a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..833c533
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e74f762
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b7536bb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val
@@ -0,0 +1,255 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern>
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.1</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description>Fitting jersey top, flat cutting.
+
+Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Fitting Jersey Top</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment description="" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_side_to_hip - 5" name="#finished_length"/>
+        <increment description="" formula="16" name="#short_sleeve_length"/>
+        <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="block">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#finished_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="CurrentLength/8" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A5" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="neck_circ / 6 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="7" id="8" length="1.3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="225" color="black" id="9" length1="4" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="8" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="10" length="across_back_b / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="11" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" name="A9" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="12" mx="-2.20412" my="0.415319" name="A10" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="12" id="13" length="-1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A11" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="8" id="14" lineColor="black" secondPoint="13" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="4" id="15" length="bust_circ / 4 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" secondPoint="10" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="15" id="16" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A13" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="15" id="17" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A14" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A7_A11 - 90" angle2="90" color="black" id="18" length1="3" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="13" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="135" color="black" id="19" length1="5" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="15" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="16" id="20" length="(bust_circ - waist_circ ) / 4 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A15" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="21" length1="8" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="15" point4="20" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="22" length1="8" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="20" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="23" length="neck_circ / 6 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A16" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="0" color="black" id="24" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="8" point4="23" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="25" length="40" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A17" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="25" id="26" length="Line_A_A3 / 2 + 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A18" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="25" id="27" length="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - 4 + 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A19" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="13" id="28" lineColor="black" secondPoint="15" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="200" angle2="230" center="25" color="black" id="30" penStyle="hair" radius="Line_A11_A12 + 0.5" type="simple"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="26" curve="30" id="31" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="31" id="34" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A21" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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+            <point angle="0" firstPoint="35" id="36" length="0.6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A20d" secondPoint="31" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
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+            <point angle="0" firstPoint="37" id="38" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.03316" my="-1.69498" name="A21u" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A17 + 180" color="black" id="39" length1="1" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="31" point4="36" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A21_A17" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A17 + 25 + 180" color="black" id="40" length1="1" length2="1" penStyle="hair" point1="36" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A21_A17 + 25" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A17 + 180" color="black" id="41" length1="2" length2="1" penStyle="hair" point1="34" point4="38" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A21_A17" angle2="180" color="black" id="42" length1="2" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="38" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="27" id="43" length="arm_wrist_circ / 2 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A22" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="25" id="44" length="#short_sleeve_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A23" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="44" id="45" lineColor="black" mx="-2.20083" my="0.464565" name="A24" p1Line="31" p2Line="43" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
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+            <point angle="0" basePoint="117" id="118" length="hip_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A27" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
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+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="120" length1="8" length2="7" penStyle="hair" point1="20" point4="119" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="47" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="106" type="NodePoint"/>
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+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="60" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c5902dca-3189-4411-8f5e-3a04800711bb}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="70.4492" my="278.177" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
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+                    <node after="0" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="107"/>
+                </iPaths>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="25.2883" my="-0.174358" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{efe4addb-171c-4997-abf0-b284a4056dfb}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
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+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="290.354" my="146.222" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="0" idObject="61" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="62" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="64" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="65" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="66" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="two" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="67" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="121" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="122" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="0" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="110"/>
+                </iPaths>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>103</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="86" mx="38.3642" my="6.50306" name="long_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{59632df6-007e-40f6-8b98-4034a776263b}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="1313.81" my="356.404" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1312.28" my="168.612" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="75" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="76" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="78" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="79" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="80" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="81" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="82" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="83" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>99</record>
+                    <record>101</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="98" mx="24.3967" my="-7.50429" name="short_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{29930ecd-c8ec-4452-bc80-9b896a52beea}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="1322.05" my="333.584" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1324.11" my="145.316" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="88" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="89" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="90" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="91" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="92" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="94" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="96" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..13fced5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,191 @@
+Fitting jersey top
+==================
+
+.. figure:: top.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+This is a simple, figure-hugging top with a round neck and a choice of
+long or short sleeves, designed for knit fabric.
+
+Beside being a good, if somewhat boring, wardrobe staple, this pattern
+is also suitable for sports- and technical-wear: try it in lightweight
+merino jersey as a thermal 1st layer, or in wicking jersey for something
+like a cycling shirt.
+
+In these cases, you may also want to make a pair of matching
+:doc:`../../trousers/leggings_shorts/index`, and if you have fabric
+leftovers you can add a matching
+:doc:`../../trousers/underwear/camisole/index`.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 1.5 m of fabric with a high stretch for a long sleeved top, 1 m
+  for short sleeves.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* ~20 cm cotton tape, 1 – 1.5 cm wide;
+* matching sewing thread.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G.04)
+   circumference around the bust.
+``waist_circ`` (G.07)
+   circumference of the waist.
+``hip_circ`` (G.09)
+   circumference of the hips.
+``across_back_b`` (I.08)
+   width of the back from armscye to armscye.
+``neck_circ`` (G.02)
+   circumference at the base of the neck.
+``arm_wrist_circ`` (L.15)
+   circumference of the wrist.
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H.19)
+   length from the nape of the neck to the waist, on the back.
+``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21)
+   depth of the armscye.
+``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L.01)
+   from the tip of the shoulder to the bent elbow to the wrist.
+``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
+   distance from the waist to the hip, measured on the side.
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`fitting_jersey_top.val`.
+
+In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following
+increments that need to be set; the defaults are reasonable:
+
+``finished_length``
+   measured from the nape of the neck, on the back;
+``short_sleeve_length``
+   desired length of the short sleeve;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the front and back on the fold; to cut the sleeves it may be
+convenient to trace the pattern on the fold of a piece of paper and use
+that to cut two sleeves flat.
+
+Also cut a strip about 4 cm wide and as long as the neck opening plus 2
+cm on the cross-grain or the direction where the fabric has more give.
+
+.. figure:: 0101-cutting_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Use the pattern for the front to cut the right length of tape for the
+shoulders.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+.. note::
+   All seams except for the shoulders are sewn with a french seam, using
+   a narrow zig-zag stitch or another elastic stitch, if available on
+   the machine used.
+
+   For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm
+   allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one
+   side.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0201-shoulders.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the shoulder seams: right sides together, put the front over the
+back and add the tape so that it's mostly over the allowances but will
+get just caught by the seam. Sew with a *straight* stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-shoulder_flat.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the allowances and the tape towards the back, trim the allowances
+so that they are shorter than the tape, and topstitch with a straight
+stitch at 8 mm from the first seam, enclosing the raw edges under the
+tape.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the band over the neck opening, right sides together and starting in
+the center back with the raw edge folded back once, sew with a narrow
+zig-zag, pulling the fabric a bit to preserve the elasticity in the seam.
+
+Check that the head can still pass through the neckline; if it doesn't
+redo the seam pulling the fabric a bit more (or enlarge the neckline a
+bit).
+
+Press the band and allowances up, fold the band to cover all raw edges
+and sew it down by hand with a herringbone stitch.
+
+Check again that the head passes through.
+
+.. note:: alternatively, you can fold the allowance down once towards
+   ther inside and stitch in the ditch by machine from the right side,
+   remembering to use an elastic stitch.
+
+.. tip::
+   Finishing the neck at this stage will keep it stable, avoiding the
+   need for stay stitching it; after the first seam you can however
+   postpone the hand stitching until the end.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-sleeves.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the sleeves to the back and front with a french seam, aligning the
+center of the sleeve with the shoulder seams.
+Press the seam towards the body.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the side and sleeve seams with a french seam. Press the seam towards
+the back.
+
+.. figure:: 0207-hems.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the hem of the shirt up towards the inside 2 cm, then again, and
+topstitch from the front with an elastic stitch such as a 3-step zig zag
+or a twin needle.
+
+Do the same to the hem of the sleeves.
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+Simpler hems and neckline
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+If making this as 1st layer, you can make even simpler hems and neckline
+finish by cutting them with just 1 cm allowance, folding it towards the
+wrong side and top stitching with a 3-step zig-zag.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3758261
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..01c3afa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+*****************
+ Tops and Shirts
+*****************
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   fitting_jersey_top/index
+