New pattern: cartridge pleated skirtHEADmaster

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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
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+Cartridge Pleated Skirt
+=======================
+
+.. figure:: full_skirt_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+These are quite generic instructions for a skirt made of a long
+rectangle cartridge pleated into a waistband (or into a bodice).
+
+As a general style, it can be useful for a variety of periods, including
+the mid 19th century and I believe Elizabethan period, but also many
+styles of European folk dress.
+
+These instructions add a waistband and attach the cartridge pleats to
+it: for many historical styles you will have to skip the waistband and
+attach the pleats directly to a finished bodice.
+
+These instructions assume handsewing: attaching the cartridge pleating
+needs to be done by hand, but as usual all (running) backstitches can be
+sewn by machine with a straight stitch without showing, and prick
+stitching and hem/applique stitching can be visibly substituted by a
+straight (or decorative) topstitch.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen, silk or wool;
+* 70+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* stronger thread for the gathering seam, e.g. linen buttonhole;
+* optional stiffening for the hem facing (tarlatan or sturdy linen);
+* at least 3 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+You need the following measurements, taken over the underpinnings and
+skirt supports you plan to use:
+
+* length from your waist to the hem of the skirt, over the skirt
+  supports;
+* circumference of the skirt support at the hem;
+* circumference of the waist.
+
+The skirt will be made of panels that are as wide as the full width of
+the fabric and as high as the length of the skirt plus 5 (heavier
+fabric) - 10 (lighter fabric) cm at the top and 2 cm at the hem (total 7
+- 12 cm).
+
+You need enough panels to make a skirt that is wider than the
+circumference of the skirt supports: with modern 150 cm wide fabric two
+panels may be just enough for a relatively narrow skirt, worn over
+petticoats, but a crinoline cage will almost always require at least
+three panels.
+
+Similarly for the hem facing you need to piece together enough
+rectangles 20 cm tall to cover the full circumference of the skirt.
+
+Finally, if you're not attaching the skirt directly to a bodice, you'll
+need a waistband: a rectangle as wide as your waist measurement plus 2
+cm allowance plus the width of an optional placket, and twice as tall as
+the desired waistband height (e.g. a total of 8 cm), plus another
+rectangle in facing fabric that is half a cm smaller in both directions.
+
+.. note:: you can also make the waistband from just a rectangle of the
+   main fabric that is as wide as described above and four times as tall
+   as the desired height, e.g. a total of 16 cm.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Panels
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0101-sewing_panels.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put two panels on each other, right sides together, sew one of the side
+seams with a running backstitch, starting from the hem and stopping at
+30 - 35 cm from the top.
+
+Press open; if you don't have a selvedge also press the raw edge under
+towards the seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-prick_stitch_finish_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0103-prick_stitch_finish_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If you have a selvedge on both sides pressing the seam open may be
+enough, otherwise press the seam open, then fold the raw edges under and
+press them; working from the right side, sew the raw edges down
+with a prick stitch, i.e. a backstitch where the stitch in the front is
+much shorter than the stitch on the back, catching just a couple of
+threads of the fabric; stop this seam at some point before the top, as
+you will finish it after folding down the top edge.
+
+.. tip:: if your edges are raw rather than selvedges, you can also sew
+   the side seams with a mantua maker's stitch, which already encloses
+   the raw edges.
+
+Repeat the same for the other seams between panels: if you want to add
+pockets stop again at 30 - 35 cm from the top and resume sewing for the
+top 10 - 15 cm, otherwise continue until the top edge.
+
+On these seams also sew the prick stitch up to the top edge of the
+fabric, or at least until past the place where it will be folded down.
+
+Hem
+^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-sewing_facing_strips.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the facing strips together with a running
+backstitch.
+
+Press open. There is no need to finish any raw edge as they will be
+encased under the facing.
+
+Fold and press under the raw edge on one short side of the facing.
+
+Also press one of the long sides of the facing by 1 cm towards the wrong
+side.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-attaching_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the non-folded side of the facing on the hem
+of the petticoat, starting from the folded edge at the center back of
+the skirt, sew with a running backstitch.
+
+Press flat and then press up.
+
+.. tip:: if the facing is in a “ugly” fabric you should press the facing
+   up in such a way that about 1 mm of the main fabric shows on the
+   back, to make sure that none of the facing shows on the front.
+
+   If, on the other hand, the facing is in the same fabric as the skirt,
+   or a nicely contrasting one, you can press it in such a way that
+   about 1 mm of the facing shows on the front, giving a sort of piping
+   effect.
+
+   In the latter case, if the skirt doesn't touch the ground you may
+   also skip the skirt protector, and change the whole facing when the
+   hem gets ruined.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-stiffening_the_hem_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with multiple
+lines of running stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-hemstitching_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-applique_sewing_hem_protector.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Applique stitch the skirt to the hem protector, letting about 1 mm of
+the protector show in the front;
+
+.. figure:: 0206-hemstitcching_hem_protector.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+and hem stitch the other side of the hem protector to the skirt,
+catching only the facing.
+
+Top edge
+--------
+
+If your fabric is heavier, fold it down the top edge 5 cm, finish the
+raw edge e.g. with whipstitches or by covering it with tape.
+
+If using a lighter weight fabric, fold down the top edge 5 cm twice, to
+add a bit more body to the pleats.
+
+Finish the prick stitch around the slit, sewing down the folded edge of
+the fabric.
+
+Waistband
+---------
+
+.. figure:: 0401-pressed_waistband_pieces.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the allowances at the short ends of the waistband towards the wrong
+side, press. Fold the long edges also to the wrong side so that they
+touch in the middle, press.
+
+Repeat with the waistband facing, folding the edge so that it's slightly
+smaller than the waistband front.
+
+.. figure:: 0402-sewing_waistband.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the facing on top of the waistband, applique stitch the facing to
+the waistband, only catching the allowances of the latter.
+
+.. figure:: 0403-marked_waistband.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Divide the waistband in as many parts as there are panels (and
+optionally half that measure), mark these points.
+
+Cartridge Pleating
+------------------
+
+Draw three lines horizontal on the top of the skirt, on the wrong side,
+starting at 1 cm from the folded edge and with 1 cm between the lines.
+
+Mark the vertical positions for the cartridge pleated stitches at a
+distance of 0.5 - 2 cm from each other, depending on the weight of the
+fabric, and starting at half such distance from the slit edge.
+
+Mark also the position of the center of each panel.
+
+.. tip:: if the fabric doesn't mark easily you can pin a sheet of paper
+   with the markings to the skirt, follow those markings and tear the
+   paper out before pulling the fabric to gather it.
+
+.. figure:: 0502-run_gathering_stitches.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut three pieces of strong thread a bit longer than the waistband; fix
+them in place at one end of the skirt with 2-3 backstitches in place,
+then start running each one at the positions you have marked before,
+starting from the wrong side of the skirt.
+
+After you're out of thread, start running the second row, and then the
+third.
+
+.. figure:: 0504-more_gathering_stitches.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Then pull on the threads to start gathering the fabric and freeing more
+thread, and resume running, starting with the first thread.
+
+.. tip:: if one of the threads break, you can leave as long a tail as
+   you can, tie a new one to it and keep and continue working with it.
+
+   If more than one thread breaks, or a thread breaks in multiple
+   places, I'd recommend starting from scratch with a stronger thread.
+
+Right sides together, pin the waistband to the skirt in the places you
+have marked before, arranging the pleats so that they are distributed
+evenly, but don't fasten off the threads at the ends yet.
+
+.. figure:: 0505-attaching_pleats_to_waistband.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Using again the strong thread, sew the waistband to the skirt with a
+whipstitch, catching each pleat twice for additional strength.
+
+Finishing
+---------
+
+Add hook an eyes or another closure of your choice to the waistband.
+
+Put the skirt on, arrange the pleats on the gathering threads so that
+they are balanced and allow the shirt to close, and fasten the threads
+with a few backstitches in place.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. .. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg
+   :align: center
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst
index 6494ef1..6f6213d 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst
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@@ -7,4 +7,5 @@
    :caption: Contents:
 
    1892_foundation_skirt/index
+   cartridge_pleated_skirt/index