Collection of menswear collars

3 files changed, 346 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bb3108b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val
@@ -0,0 +1,205 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="de" passmarkLength="">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.1</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description></description>
+    <notes></notes>
+    <patternName>Collar collection</patternName>
+    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+    <company></company>
+    <customer></customer>
+    <birthDate>2000-01-01</birthDate>
+    <email></email>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="collar: %finalMeasurement_collar%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <finalMeasurements>
+        <finalMeasurment formula="#collar_circumference" name="collar"/>
+    </finalMeasurements>
+    <measurements/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment formula="40" name="#collar_circumference"/>
+        <increment formula="6" name="#collar_height"/>
+        <increment formula="4" name="#stand_height"/>
+        <increment formula="100" name="#front_angle"/>
+        <increment formula="2.5" name="#rise_of_curve"/>
+        <increment formula="2" name="#buttons_overlap"/>
+        <increment formula="1" name="#stand_rounding"/>
+        <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="collars">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#collar_circumference /  2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="-#buttons_overlap / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.85332" my="0.207776" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="sqrt((#collar_circumference/2)^2 - #rise_of_curve^2)" lineColor="black" mx="-2.0046" my="0.434694" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="4" id="5" length="#rise_of_curve" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="6" length="#stand_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="8" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <line firstPoint="1" id="9" lineColor="black" secondPoint="5" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" id="10" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="5" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="AngleLine_A_A4 + 90" basePoint="5" id="11" length="#stand_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" id="12" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="6" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="8" id="13" length="#stand_rounding" lineColor="black" mx="-1.36167" my="-2.13705" name="A8" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="8" id="14" length="#stand_rounding" lineColor="black" mx="-2.04242" my="-0.624258" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" color="black" id="15" length1="0.6" length2="0.6" penStyle="hair" point1="14" point4="13" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="16" length="-#collar_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="#front_angle" basePoint="6" id="17" length="#collar_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="18" length="#stand_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="19" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C2" secondPoint="18" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A5_A11 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" duplicate="1" id="38" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="6" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A5_A11 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" id="39" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="17" point4="16" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="#front_angle" basePoint="3" id="51" length="#stand_height" lineColor="black" mx="-2.49626" my="-1.72103" name="E1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A2_E1 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" id="52" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="51" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="20" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="21" idObject="2" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="22" idObject="18" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="23" idObject="19" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="25" idObject="2" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="26" idObject="18" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="27" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="28" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="-2.04242" my="-0.624258" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="29" idObject="15" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="30" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="-1.36167" my="-2.13705" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="31" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="32" idObject="12" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="33" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="34" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="35" idObject="10" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="37" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="40" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="41" idObject="39" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="42" idObject="16" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="43" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="44" idObject="38" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="45" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="47" idObject="16" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="48" idObject="11" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="49" idObject="11" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="50" idObject="5" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="53" idObject="51" inUse="false" mx="-2.49626" my="-1.72103" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="54" idObject="52" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="55" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="56" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="57" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="-1.49361" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="59" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="60" idObject="10" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="61" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="62" idObject="15" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="63" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="64" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="65" idObject="39" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="66" idObject="16" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="67" idObject="16" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="68" idObject="5" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="24" inLayout="false" mx="0.0567158" my="2.21192" name="straight_collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{88bd1f5d-3a2c-4894-a19e-88520fd84b0c}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="199.354" my="38.6456" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mInterlining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="30.0102" my="38.6456" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="26" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="25" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="20" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="21" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="23" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>25</record>
+                    <record>26</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="36" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="stand" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e6d6d64f-ad01-434b-8451-ada5a1ec8325}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="A" mx="209.502" my="-116.459" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mInterlining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="42.6406" my="-92.8121" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="50" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="49" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="28" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="29" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="30" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="31" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="32" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="33" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="34" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="35" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="37" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>49</record>
+                    <record>50</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="46" inLayout="false" mx="0.0567158" my="-0.0567158" name="collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e80ece5a-57a2-41be-84a1-01e43c03ab44}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="B" mx="250.47" my="-345.89" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mInterlining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="68.97" my="-327.74" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="48" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="47" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="41" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="43" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="44" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>47</record>
+                    <record>48</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="58" mx="-1.56871" my="-12.2936" name="one_piece_collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{a12b6329-ac40-4efe-8e94-5f848dc67b78}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="D" mx="267.311" my="-296.329" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mInterlining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="82.6297" my="-299.719" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="68" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="67" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node after="0" before="0" idObject="55" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="60" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="56" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="57" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="61" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="62" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="64" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="65" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="66" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>67</record>
+                    <record>68</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c787483
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,140 @@
+1880s Shirt
+===========
+
+.. figure:: 
+   :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+   .. contents::
+
+
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Leftovers of linen or cotton shirting fabric;
+* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing or linen canvas.
+
+If using linen or another crisp fabric you can use the same fabric also
+as interfacing, especially if you plan to starch the collars when
+wearing them.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match the fabric.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`collars.val`.
+
+There is no measurement file, but you need to set the following
+measurements in the table of variables in Valentina to change the
+styling:
+
+``collar_circumference``
+   circumference of the collar, as measured on the shirt you want to use
+   this collar with;
+``stand_height``
+   height of the stand, for two parts collars, or the full collar for
+   standing collars: change this for the desired style;
+``collar_height``
+   height of the collar proper: change this for the desired style;
+``front_angle``
+   angle of the front of the collar;
+
+as well as the following ones, for which the defaults are usually fine:
+
+``rise_of_curve``
+   how much the back of the collar should rise compared to the front to
+   follow the curve of the neck: the default of 2.5 cm is usually
+   sensible;
+``buttons_overlap``
+   how much the collar should overlap for buttoning;
+``stand_rounding``
+   how much the front of the stand should be rounded (or the line of the
+   collar should go back);
+``sewing_allowance``
+   the default sewing allowance; if sewing by hand you can make it
+   as small as you can manage.
+
+In the Details screen select the pieces you want to print: A and B for a
+two piece collar, or one of C or D for a single piece collar
+(respectively straight or curved)
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+For either kind of collar cut all pieces on the fold, twice in the fabric
+and twice in the interlining material.
+
+.. tip::
+   If it helps using more of the fabric you can cut one of the
+   interlining layers in two pieces: don't add a sewing allowance in the
+   middle, but just put them side to side and either sew them together
+   by machine with a zig-zag or by hand with a herringbone stitch.
+
+Simple collar
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Put one layer of interlining at the bottom, the two layers of fabric,
+right sides together, and one layer of interlining on top.
+
+Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the
+interlining to reduce bulk.
+
+Press carefully, turn inside out.
+
+Press the bottom edge up, whipstitch it closed by hand.
+
+Continue with the finishing steps.
+
+Two parts collars
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Take the collar pieces and put one layer of interlining at the bottom,
+the two layers of fabric, right sides together, and one layer of
+interlining on top.
+
+Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the
+interlining to reduce bulk.
+
+Press carefully, turn inside out.
+
+Take also the stand pieces and put one layer of interlining at the
+bottom, one layer of fabric (right side on top), the collar, the other
+layer of fabric (right side below), the final layer of interlining.
+
+Sew around the sides and top. Trim the allowances.
+
+Press carefully, turn inside out.
+
+Press the bottom edge up, whipstitch it closed by hand.
+
+Continue with the finishing steps.
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+Make buttonholes of a size appropriate for the buttons you have on your
+shirts close to the bottom edge of the collar (in the stand for two
+parts collars): one in the middle (center back) and two close to the
+ends that will close in the center front.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: 
+   :align: center
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst
index 8f77417..fe991cb 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst
@@ -7,4 +7,5 @@
    :caption: Contents:
 
    1880s_shirt/index
+   collars/index