More instructions

1 files changed, 31 insertions, 2 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
index 979ac8a..968e4a1 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
@@ -45,8 +45,8 @@ towards the seam.
 Working from the right side, sew the raw edges down with a prick stitch,
 i.e. a backstitch where the stitch in the front is much shorter than the
 stitch on the back, catching just a couple of threads of the fabric;
-continue this seam up to the top of the fabric, so that it also finishes
-the edges of the slit.
+stop this seam at some point before the top, as you will finish it after
+folding down the top edge.
 
 .. tip:: if your edges are raw rather than selvedges, you can also sew
    the side seams with a mantua maker's stitch, which already encloses
@@ -56,6 +56,9 @@ Repeat the same for the other seams between panels: if you want to add
 pockets stop again at 30 cm from the top and resume sewing for the top
 10 cm, otherwise continue until the top edge.
 
+Also sew the prick stitch up to the top edge of the fabric, or at least
+until past the place where it will be folded down.
+
 Hem
 ^^^
 
@@ -71,9 +74,35 @@ Right sides together, put the facing on the petticoat, starting from the
 folded edge at the center back of the skirt, sew with a running
 backstitch.
 
+Press the raw edge of the facing 1 cm towards the wrong side.
+
+Press flat and then press up, trying to leave about 1 mm of the front
+fabric showing on the back.
+
+.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) you can
+   also let about 1 mm of the facing show on the front and skip 
+
 Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with a running
 stitch.
 
+Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt.
+
+Top edge
+--------
+
+If your fabric is heavier, fold it down the top edge 5 cm, finish the
+raw edge e.g. with whipstitches or by covering it with tape.
+
+If using a lighter weight fabric, fold down the top edge 5 cm twice, to
+add a bit more body to the pleats.
+
+Finish the prick stitch around the slit, sewing down the folded edge of
+the fabric.
+
+Waistband
+---------
+
+
 Gallery
 -------