Added new drafting system

5 files changed, 235 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/american.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/american.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..385012d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/american.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+    <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.5.2</version>
+    <read-only>false</read-only>
+    <notes/>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+    <personal>
+        <customer/>
+        <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+        <gender>unknown</gender>
+        <email/>
+    </personal>
+    <body-measurements>
+        <m name="neck_mid_circ" value="30"/>
+        <m name="bust_circ" value="91"/>
+        <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="53"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="38"/>
+        <m name="across_chest_f" value="36"/>
+        <m name="across_back_b" value="36"/>
+        <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="20"/>
+        <m name="armscye_circ" value="33"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/>
+        <m name="arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="63"/>
+        <m name="@arm_armscye_back_center_to_elbow" value="38"/>
+        <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="47"/>
+        <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="28"/>
+        <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/>
+        <m name="hip_circ" value="102"/>
+        <m name="waist_to_hip_side" value="15"/>
+        <m name="height_waist_front" value="102"/>
+        <m name="height_waist_side" value="104"/>
+        <m name="height_waist_back" value="104"/>
+    </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_1.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_1.svg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c36f57c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_1.svg
@@ -0,0 +1,53 @@
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2ff0e27
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,91 @@
+The American System of Dressmaking
+==================================
+
+This section follows :cite:`1909:american`.
+
+All measurements have been converted to metric.
+
+Measurements
+------------
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset, following the instructions given by the book.
+
+The file :download:`american.vit` include all the measurements used in
+these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
+
+Instructions on how to take these measurements start with general
+instructions at page 17, then the measurements used in the waists are
+described starting from page 20, those for the sleeve from page 53 and
+those for the skirt from page 133.
+
+.. figure:: fig_1.svg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: fig_2.svg
+   :align: center
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| American System      | Valentina                                          |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1 Neck               | G01 | ``neck_mid_circ``                            |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2 Bust               | G04 | ``bust_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3 Waist              | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4 Front              | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front``                 |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5 Length of back     | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6 Chest              | I03 | ``across_chest_f``                           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 7 Width of back      | I08 | ``across_back_b``                            |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 8 Under arm          | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 9 Armhole            | L19 | ``armscye_circ``                             |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 10 Shoulder          | I01 | ``shoulder_length``                          |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| American System      | Valentina                                          |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1 Length of sleeve   | O14 | ``arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent``    |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2 shoulder to elbow  | --- | ``@arm_armscye_back_center_to_elbow``        |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3 inside arm         | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4 Armhole            | L19 | ``armscye_circ``                             |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5 Elbow              | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6 Hand Measure       | D05 | ``hand_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| American System      | Valentina                                          |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1 Waist              | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2 Hip                | G09 | ``hip_circ``                                 |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3                    | H35 | ``waist_to_hip_side``                        |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4                    | A13 | ``height_waist_front``                       |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5                    | A05 | ``height_waist_side``                        |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6                    | A23 | ``height_waist_back``                        |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+
+Blocks
+------
+
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
index 97321bc..95576c4 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
@@ -8,5 +8,6 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files.
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
 
+   american/index
    blair/index
    cutters/index