From 2baef36de993246f3a170549fad49674e72d457c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 09:57:28 +0200
Subject: Shirtwaist: fixed cuff, added mens collar

---
 american_system_shirtwaist.val | 86 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++----
 1 file changed, 79 insertions(+), 7 deletions(-)

(limited to 'american_system_shirtwaist.val')

diff --git a/american_system_shirtwaist.val b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
index 11ea2f8..e7d538c 100644
--- a/american_system_shirtwaist.val
+++ b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
@@ -22,6 +22,7 @@
         <increment description="" formula="neck_back_to_armfold_front_to_waist_side - arm_elbow_to_wrist_bent - 2" name="#short_sleeve_length"/>
         <increment description="" formula="2.5" name="#placket_width"/>
         <increment description="" formula="6" name="#cuff_height"/>
+        <increment description="Total length of collar stand and depth. The stand will be half this measure, minus 1 cm." formula="12" name="#mens_collar_total_height"/>
     </increments>
     <draw name="front">
         <calculation>
@@ -115,7 +116,7 @@
             <point id="286" idObject="283" inUse="true" mx="-0.0338417" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
-            <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="213" mx="0.103" my="0.227496" name="front" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
+            <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="213" inLayout="false" mx="0.103" my="0.227496" name="front" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
                 <data fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="112.895" my="693.532" rotation="AngleLine_A16_An - 90" visible="true" width="5">
                     <mcp cutNumber="2" material="0" placement="0"/>
                 </data>
@@ -237,7 +238,7 @@
             <spline id="267" idObject="100" inUse="true" type="modelingPath"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
-            <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="223" mx="-0.103" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
+            <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="223" inLayout="false" mx="-0.103" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
                 <data fontSize="0" height="5" letter="B" mx="1357.95" my="389.903" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5">
                     <mcp cutNumber="1" material="0" placement="1"/>
                 </data>
@@ -346,6 +347,7 @@
                     <node idObject="345" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
+            <point id="394" idObject="135" type="pin"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="187" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0.0729353" name="shirtwaist_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
@@ -353,7 +355,7 @@
                     <mcp cutNumber="2" material="0" placement="0"/>
                 </data>
                 <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="2296.55" my="151.824" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
-                <grainline arrows="2" centerPin="229" length="40" mx="0" my="0" rotation="45" visible="true"/>
+                <grainline arrows="2" centerPin="394" length="40" mx="0" my="0" rotation="45" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="178" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="179" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -377,6 +379,7 @@
                 <pins>
                     <record>229</record>
                     <record>233</record>
+                    <record>394</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
         </details>
@@ -400,6 +403,23 @@
             <point firstPoint="299" id="303" length="1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D5" secondPoint="236" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="302" id="304" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D6" secondPoint="303" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <arc angle1="90" angle2="180" center="304" color="black" id="305" radius="1" type="simple"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="234" id="355" length="Spl_An_Am + Spl_Bk_Bo" lineColor="black" mx="-2.1719" my="0.0725674" name="Dw2" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="234" id="356" length="#mens_collar_total_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Dw3" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="234" id="357" length="CurrentLength * 3 /4" lineColor="black" mx="-3.25999" my="0.392594" name="Dw4" secondPoint="235" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="355" id="358" length="0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Dw5" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="234" id="359" length="CurrentLength/2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Dw6" secondPoint="356" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="355" id="360" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Dw7" secondPoint="359" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="360" id="361" length="0.75" lineColor="black" mx="-2.42792" my="0.328589" name="Dw8" secondPoint="359" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="358" id="362" length="-#placket_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Dw9" secondPoint="357" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="357" id="363" lineColor="black" secondPoint="362" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_Dw4_Dw9 + 180 + 5" color="black" id="364" length1="1.5" length2="1.5" point1="357" point4="362" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline angle1="AngleLine_Dw4_Dw9 + 90 + 5" angle2="0" color="black" id="365" length1="2" length2="1.5" point1="362" point4="361" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="355" id="366" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D7" secondPoint="356" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="366" id="367" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D8" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="367" id="368" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D9" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="357" id="369" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D10" secondPoint="356" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="369" id="370" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D11" secondPoint="356" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline angle1="0" angle2="220" color="black" id="371" length1="4" length2="1" point1="370" point4="368" type="simpleInteractive"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
             <point id="243" idObject="237" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -418,9 +438,29 @@
             <point id="311" idObject="300" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="312" idObject="239" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="313" idObject="241" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="372" idObject="356" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="373" idObject="370" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="374" idObject="371" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="375" idObject="368" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="376" idObject="361" inUse="false" mx="-2.42792" my="0.328589" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="377" idObject="364" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="378" idObject="357" inUse="false" mx="-3.25999" my="0.392594" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="379" idObject="234" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="380" idObject="356" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="381" idObject="370" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="382" idObject="371" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="383" idObject="361" inUse="true" mx="-2.42792" my="0.328589" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="384" idObject="359" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="386" idObject="359" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="387" idObject="361" inUse="true" mx="-2.42792" my="0.328589" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="388" idObject="365" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <spline id="389" idObject="364" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="390" idObject="357" inUse="true" mx="-3.25999" my="0.392594" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="391" idObject="234" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="393" idObject="362" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" id="249" mx="0" my="0" name="collar" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" id="249" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="collar" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
                 <data fontSize="0" height="4" letter="D" mx="222.329" my="2941.17" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4">
                     <mcp cutNumber="1" material="0" placement="1"/>
                 </data>
@@ -439,7 +479,7 @@
                     <record>251</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" id="314" mx="-1.38129" my="6.38846" name="collar_band" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" id="314" inLayout="false" mx="-1.38129" my="6.38846" name="collar_band" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
                 <data fontSize="0" height="1.5" letter="E" mx="123.265" my="3073.1" rotation="0" visible="true" width="1.5">
                     <mcp cutNumber="2" material="0" placement="1"/>
                 </data>
@@ -456,13 +496,45 @@
                     <node idObject="313" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
                 </nodes>
             </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="true" id="385" inLayout="true" mx="-24.337" my="21.0075" name="mens_collar_fall" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+                <data fontSize="0" height="5" letter="H" mx="341.102" my="2347" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <mcp cutNumber="2" material="0" placement="1"/>
+                    <mcp cutNumber="1" material="2" placement="1"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="92.4196" my="2347" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="90" mx="0" my="0" rotation="1" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="380" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="381" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="382" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="383" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="384" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="true" id="392" inLayout="true" mx="-24.8127" my="25.7639" name="mens_collar_stand" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+                <data fontSize="0" height="4" letter="I" mx="308.144" my="2591.84" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4">
+                    <mcp cutNumber="2" material="0" placement="1"/>
+                    <mcp cutNumber="1" material="2" placement="1"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="101.408" my="2597.83" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="90" mx="0" my="0" rotation="1" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="386" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="387" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="388" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="393" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="389" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="390" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="391" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </detail>
         </details>
         <groups/>
     </draw>
     <draw name="cuff">
         <calculation>
             <point id="315" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="E" type="single" x="30.9299" y="69.6894"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="315" id="316" length="hand_circ + 5 + 1.5 * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="E1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="315" id="316" length="arm_wrist_circ + 1 + 1.5 * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="E1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="315" id="317" length="#cuff_height * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="E2" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="316" id="318" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="E3" secondPoint="317" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="315" id="319" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="E4" secondPoint="317" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -529,7 +601,7 @@
                     <record path="341"/>
                 </iPaths>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" id="354" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="18.8422" name="cuff_band" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" id="354" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="18.8422" name="cuff_band" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
                 <data fontSize="0" height="2" letter="G" mx="1232.24" my="2558.84" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5">
                     <mcp cutNumber="4" material="0" placement="0"/>
                 </data>
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