From e16f2efc77b7c0e707b43c376c4368ac9b66788f Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2017 21:39:51 +0100
Subject: Shirtwaist: added ease

---
 american_system_shirtwaist.val | 25 ++++++++++++-------------
 1 file changed, 12 insertions(+), 13 deletions(-)

diff --git a/american_system_shirtwaist.val b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
index 0cc2f9a..53c462a 100644
--- a/american_system_shirtwaist.val
+++ b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@
         <increment description="Distance from the original center front to the center front line at the waist. Between 2.5 and 7.5 cm depending on bust size" formula="6" name="#front_distance_waist"/>
         <increment description="Distance between center front and neck. Formula is valid for neck circ between 25 and 37 cm." formula="5 + (neck_mid_circ - 25) / 4" name="#neck_hor_width"/>
         <increment description="" formula="neck_back_to_armfold_front_to_waist_side - arm_elbow_to_wrist_bent - 2" name="#short_sleeve_length"/>
-        <increment description="" formula="2" name="#placket_width"/>
+        <increment description="" formula="2.5" name="#placket_width"/>
         <increment description="" formula="6" name="#cuff_height"/>
     </increments>
     <draw name="front">
@@ -32,7 +32,7 @@
             <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="5" length="shoulder_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="5" id="6" length="shoulder_slope_neck_side_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="As" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="7" length="armscye_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Ab" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="8" length="bust_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Ac" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="8" length="bust_circ / 4 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.10269" name="Ac" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="0" basePoint="8" id="9" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Ad" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="9" id="10" length="armpit_to_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Ae" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="10" id="11" length="6.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.0473595" my="0.264583" name="A2" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
@@ -67,7 +67,7 @@
                 <pathPoint angle1="179.066" angle2="359.066" length1="4.4744" length2="1.00636" pSpline="8"/>
                 <pathPoint angle1="204.243" angle2="24.243" length1="1.00636" length2="0" pSpline="36"/>
             </spline>
-            <spline angle1="3.58686" angle2="271.299" color="black" id="38" length1="3.7114" length2="4.8293" point1="3" point4="4" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline angle1="0" angle2="270" color="black" id="38" length1="5.5" length2="5" point1="3" point4="4" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <spline angle1="96.4091" angle2="264.111" color="black" id="61" length1="17.7282" length2="17.8584" point1="17" point4="3" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <line firstPoint="4" id="94" lineColor="black" secondPoint="6" typeLine="hair"/>
             <line firstPoint="17" id="101" lineColor="black" secondPoint="20" typeLine="hair"/>
@@ -92,7 +92,6 @@
             <point id="209" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="210" idObject="198" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="211" idObject="197" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="212" idObject="188" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="224" idObject="3" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
             <point id="225" idObject="188" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
             <point id="226" idObject="35" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
@@ -113,7 +112,7 @@
             <point id="281" idObject="280" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="282" idObject="37" inUse="true" type="modelingPath"/>
             <point id="285" idObject="284" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="286" idObject="283" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="286" idObject="283" inUse="true" mx="-0.0338417" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="213" inLayout="true" mx="0.103" my="0.227496" name="front" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
@@ -140,8 +139,8 @@
                     <node idObject="209" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="210" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node angle="1" idObject="211" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="285" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node after="1" idObject="286" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="#placket_width" idObject="285" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="1" before="#placket_width" idObject="286" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
                 <iPaths>
                     <record path="256"/>
@@ -161,7 +160,7 @@
         <calculation>
             <point id="84" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B" type="single" x="34.2942" y="1.05833"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="84" id="85" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + 0.625" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="84" id="86" length="bust_circ / 4 - 2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B2" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="84" id="86" length="bust_circ / 4 - 2.5 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B2" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="86" id="87" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B3" secondPoint="85" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="84" id="88" length="0.625" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Bk" secondPoint="85" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="84" id="89" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Bl" secondPoint="85" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -323,7 +322,7 @@
             <spline id="279" idObject="143" inUse="true" type="modelingPath"/>
             <point id="290" idObject="288" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="291" idObject="289" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
-            <path id="292" name="short_sleeve" type="2" typeLine="dashLine">
+            <path id="292" inUse="true" name="short_sleeve" type="2" typeLine="dashLine">
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="290" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="291" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -331,7 +330,7 @@
             </path>
             <point id="296" idObject="294" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="297" idObject="295" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
-            <path id="298" name="cuff_length" type="2" typeLine="dashLine">
+            <path id="298" inUse="true" name="cuff_length" type="2" typeLine="dashLine">
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="296" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="297" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -375,13 +374,13 @@
     <draw name="collar">
         <calculation>
             <point id="234" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D" type="single" x="0.79375" y="73.1925"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="234" id="235" length="neck_mid_circ / 2 + 1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="234" id="235" length="neck_mid_circ / 2 + 1.25 + 1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="D1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="234" id="236" length="10" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Dc" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="234" id="237" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Da" secondPoint="236" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="235" id="238" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Dd" secondPoint="234" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="235" id="239" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Db" secondPoint="237" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
-            <spline angle1="0" angle2="201.531" color="black" id="240" length1="5" length2="1.66414" point1="237" point4="238" type="simpleInteractive"/>
-            <spline angle1="0" angle2="203.658" color="black" id="241" length1="7.00505" length2="2.70633" point1="236" point4="239" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline angle1="0" angle2="200" color="black" id="240" length1="6" length2="3" point1="237" point4="238" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline angle1="0" angle2="200" color="black" id="241" length1="8" length2="4" point1="236" point4="239" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <line firstPoint="238" id="242" lineColor="black" secondPoint="239" typeLine="hair"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
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