From 7f0931bf9921f66b6388ec5ff536f1dba73fa2c1 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2017 17:23:05 +0200
Subject: Adapted to use same measurements as the American System

---
 5-gore-skirt.val | 104 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++------------------
 1 file changed, 71 insertions(+), 33 deletions(-)

(limited to '5-gore-skirt.val')

diff --git a/5-gore-skirt.val b/5-gore-skirt.val
index 5acd82c..0f48b22 100644
--- a/5-gore-skirt.val
+++ b/5-gore-skirt.val
@@ -7,26 +7,27 @@
     <description>Edwardian 5-gore skirt based on `Garment drafting by simple rule method by Mrs. Mae Milbourne Gingles &lt;https://archive.org/details/garmentdraftingb00ging&gt;`_.
 
 Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw&gt;`_</description>
-    <notes></notes>
+    <notes/>
     <patternName>5 gored skirt</patternName>
-    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
-    <company></company>
-    <customer></customer>
-    <size></size>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <customer/>
+    <size/>
     <showDate>true</showDate>
     <showMeasurements>true</showMeasurements>
-    <measurements>size14.vit</measurements>
+    <measurements>../measurements/EoV_americansystem.vit</measurements>
     <increments>
-        <increment description="" formula="12" name="#yoke_depth"/>
         <increment description="" formula="14" name="#placket_lenght"/>
+        <increment description="Depth of the yoke (for the petticoat version)" formula="12" name="#yoke_depth"/>
+        <increment description="Distance from the floor of the petticoat lenght" formula="20" name="#floor_to_petticoat"/>
     </increments>
     <draw name="front_gore">
         <calculation>
             <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="height_waist_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="3" length="@corset_reduced_waist / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2a" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="3" length="waist_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2a" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="90" basePoint="3" id="4" length="1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="height_waist_side_to_hip" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" secondPoint="2" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="waist_to_hip_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" secondPoint="2" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="6" length="waist_circ / 6 + 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline angle1="0.0154783" angle2="190.419" color="black" id="7" length1="4.69372" length2="4.53455" point1="1" point4="4" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <spline angle1="287.31" angle2="102.472" color="black" id="8" length1="8.92608" length2="9.01799" point1="4" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/>
@@ -36,6 +37,9 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
             <point firstPoint="1" id="80" length="#yoke_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" secondPoint="5" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point id="81" length="#yoke_depth" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A8" spline="8" type="cutSpline"/>
             <spline angle1="0" angle2="190.735" color="black" id="82" length1="3" length2="4.0375" point1="80" point4="81" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="2" id="125" length="#floor_to_petticoat" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A9" secondPoint="5" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="126" length="#floor_to_petticoat" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A10" secondPoint="6" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline angle1="0" angle2="189.739" color="black" id="133" length1="12" length2="7.24078" point1="125" point4="126" type="simpleInteractive"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
             <point id="36" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -46,8 +50,6 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
             <point id="41" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="42" idObject="11" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
             <point id="43" idObject="2" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="74" idObject="5" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="75" idObject="6" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
             <point id="79" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="83" idObject="80" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="84" idObject="82" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
@@ -59,8 +61,18 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
                     <node idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="117" idObject="5" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="118" idObject="2" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="117" idObject="5" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="118" idObject="2" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="134" idObject="125" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="135" idObject="133" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="136" idObject="126" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <path id="137" name="petticoat_hem" type="2" typeLine="dotLine">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="134" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="135" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="136" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="44" inLayout="true" mx="-0.102459" my="0" name="front_gore" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
@@ -74,14 +86,15 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
                     <node idObject="37" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node before="1" idObject="38" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="39" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node idObject="40" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="41" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="42" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node after="0" idObject="43" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node after="0" before="0" idObject="79" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="0" before="0" idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
                 <iPaths>
                     <record path="86"/>
+                    <record path="137"/>
                 </iPaths>
                 <pins>
                     <record>117</record>
@@ -94,9 +107,9 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
     <draw name="side_gore">
         <calculation>
             <point id="12" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B" type="single" x="29.5654" y="1.05833"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="12" id="13" length="@corset_reduced_waist / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="12" id="13" length="waist_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="12" id="14" length="1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B2" secondPoint="13" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="270" basePoint="12" id="15" length="height_waist_side_to_hip" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B3" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="12" id="15" length="waist_to_hip_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B3" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline angle1="90.3395" angle2="260.628" color="black" id="16" length1="8.15677" length2="4.45235" point1="15" point4="14" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="15" id="17" length="height_waist_front - Spl_B3_B2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B4" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="90" basePoint="13" id="18" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B5" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
@@ -105,10 +118,13 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
             <spline angle1="359.319" angle2="191.046" color="black" id="21" length1="6.75013" length2="5.92453" point1="14" point4="18" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point angle="0" basePoint="17" id="22" length="hip_circ / 4 * 1.6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B7" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="19" id="23" length="height_waist_side - Spl_B5_B6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B8" secondPoint="22" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <spline angle1="181.029" angle2="0" color="black" id="24" length1="15.6413" length2="15.6388" point1="23" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline angle1="188.504" angle2="0" color="black" id="24" length1="15.8126" length2="15.6388" point1="23" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point id="87" length="Spl_B3_B2 - #yoke_depth" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B9" spline="16" type="cutSpline"/>
             <point id="88" length="#yoke_depth" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B10" spline="20" type="cutSpline"/>
             <spline angle1="0" angle2="193.418" color="black" id="89" length1="5" length2="5.45826" point1="87" point4="88" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="17" id="127" length="#floor_to_petticoat" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B11" secondPoint="15" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="23" id="128" length="#floor_to_petticoat" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="B12" secondPoint="19" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline angle1="0" angle2="189.437" color="black" id="132" length1="15" length2="12.9893" point1="127" point4="128" type="simpleInteractive"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
             <point id="45" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -121,8 +137,6 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
             <point id="52" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="53" idObject="15" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="54" idObject="16" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="76" idObject="15" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="77" idObject="19" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
             <point id="90" idObject="87" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="91" idObject="89" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
             <point id="92" idObject="88" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -133,8 +147,18 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
                     <node idObject="92" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="119" idObject="15" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="120" idObject="17" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="119" idObject="15" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="120" idObject="17" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="138" idObject="127" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="139" idObject="132" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="140" idObject="128" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <path id="141" name="petticoat_hem" type="2" typeLine="dotLine">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="138" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="139" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="140" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="55" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0.15001" name="side_gore" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
@@ -148,15 +172,16 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
                     <node idObject="46" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node before="1" idObject="47" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="48" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node idObject="49" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="49" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="50" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="51" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node idObject="52" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="53" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="53" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="54" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                 </nodes>
                 <iPaths>
                     <record path="93"/>
+                    <record path="141"/>
                 </iPaths>
                 <pins>
                     <record>119</record>
@@ -169,20 +194,23 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
     <draw name="back_gore">
         <calculation>
             <point id="25" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C" type="single" x="79.9703" y="1.05833"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="25" id="26" length="@corset_reduced_waist / 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="25" id="26" length="waist_circ / 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C1" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="25" id="27" length="1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C2" secondPoint="26" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="270" basePoint="25" id="28" length="height_waist_side_to_hip" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C3" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="25" id="28" length="waist_to_hip_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C3" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline angle1="86.5428" angle2="260.287" color="black" id="29" length1="20.4026" length2="1.12165" point1="28" point4="27" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="28" id="30" length="height_waist_side - Spl_C3_C2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C4" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="31" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C5" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="0" basePoint="30" id="32" length="hip_circ / 3 * 1.6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C6" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="31" id="33" length="height_waist_back" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C7" secondPoint="32" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <spline angle1="0.980622" angle2="189.382" color="black" id="34" length1="8.48258" length2="9.20882" point1="27" point4="31" type="simpleInteractive"/>
-            <spline angle1="185.495" angle2="359.726" color="black" id="35" length1="19.5148" length2="20.5727" point1="33" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline angle1="189.594" angle2="359.726" color="black" id="35" length1="19.7007" length2="20.5727" point1="33" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point id="94" length="Spl_C3_C2 - #yoke_depth" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C8" spline="29" type="cutSpline"/>
             <point firstPoint="31" id="95" length="#yoke_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C9" secondPoint="33" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <spline angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_C5_C7 - 90" color="black" id="96" length1="5" length2="5" point1="94" point4="95" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="31" id="123" length="#placket_lenght" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C10" secondPoint="33" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="30" id="129" length="#floor_to_petticoat" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C11" secondPoint="28" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="33" id="130" length="#floor_to_petticoat" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C12" secondPoint="31" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline angle1="190.538" angle2="0" color="black" id="131" length1="19.8921" length2="15" point1="130" point4="129" type="simpleInteractive"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
             <point id="56" idObject="27" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -193,7 +221,6 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
             <point id="61" idObject="30" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="62" idObject="28" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="63" idObject="29" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="78" idObject="28" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
             <point id="97" idObject="94" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <spline id="98" idObject="96" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
             <point id="99" idObject="95" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -204,9 +231,19 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
                     <node idObject="99" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="121" idObject="28" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="122" idObject="30" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="121" idObject="28" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="122" idObject="30" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
             <point id="124" idObject="123" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="142" idObject="129" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="143" idObject="131" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="144" idObject="130" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+            <path id="145" name="petticoat_hem" type="2" typeLine="dotLine">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="142" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="143" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="144" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="64" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0.102459" name="back_gore" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
@@ -223,11 +260,12 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
                     <node idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="60" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node idObject="61" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="62" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="62" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="63" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                 </nodes>
                 <iPaths>
                     <record path="100"/>
+                    <record path="145"/>
                 </iPaths>
                 <pins>
                     <record>121</record>
@@ -282,8 +320,8 @@ Yoke from `The American System of Dressmaking by Miss Pearl Merwin &lt;https://a
             <point id="111" idObject="107" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
             <arc id="112" idObject="105" inUse="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="113" idObject="103" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="115" idObject="102" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="116" idObject="103" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="115" idObject="102" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="116" idObject="103" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" id="114" inLayout="true" mx="123.212" my="-117.172" name="yoke" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
-- 
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