From 9eadb21861f33a1ef6f1d7532b4b25bed7a47def Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2021 14:53:41 +0200
Subject: Foundation skirt: adjusted hem

---
 .../elaborations/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val | 59 +++++++++++-----------
 1 file changed, 29 insertions(+), 30 deletions(-)

diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val
index 77d3c22..3466105 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val
@@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc
 The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, so that the same pattern can be used even if they differ significantly (e.g. for bustle era skirts).</description>
     <notes/>
     <patternName>Foundation Skirt, straight hem</patternName>
-    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+    <patternNumber/>
     <company>Cutter's Practical Guide</company>
     <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
         <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
@@ -23,14 +23,15 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
     <measurements>../measurements.vit</measurements>
     <increments>
         <increment formula="2.5" name="#placket_depth"/>
-        <increment formula="45" name="#pocket_depth_from_waist"/>
-        <increment formula="14" name="#pocket_width"/>
+        <increment formula="50" name="#pocket_depth_from_waist"/>
+        <increment formula="20" name="#pocket_width"/>
+        <increment formula="10" name="#height_hem_ground"/>
     </increments>
     <previewCalculations/>
     <draw name="pattern">
         <calculation>
             <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
-            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="height_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A40" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="height_waist_back - #height_hem_ground" lineColor="black" mx="0.374078" my="0.28738" name="A40" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="3" length="hip_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="18" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="3" id="5" mx="-3.64244" my="-0.0496415" name="A20a" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
@@ -55,7 +56,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
             <point angle="180" basePoint="11" id="24" length="33" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="11" id="25" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B13" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="24" id="26" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
-            <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="27" length="height_waist_back - height_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0r" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="27" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0r" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="160" color="black" id="28" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="27" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="10" id="30" length="25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="10" id="31" length="13" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -70,12 +71,14 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
             <point angle="90" basePoint="99" id="100" length="18" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="-30" angle2="90" color="black" id="101" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="31" point4="100" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="10" id="107" length="height_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point firstPoint="1" id="108" length="height_waist_side - height_waist_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="108" length="height_waist_back - height_waist_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="-10" angle2="180" color="black" id="109" length1="3" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="9" point4="108" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="9" id="129" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="270" basePoint="129" id="130" length="Line_A_A7 / 2 + 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="129" id="130" length="Line_A_A7 / 2 + 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="129" id="131" length="Line_A_A1 / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.18299" my="-1.91472" name="A22" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="129" id="132" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="-1.09518" my="-1.71076" name="A23" secondPoint="131" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="18" id="137" length="height_waist_back - height_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180" color="black" id="138" length1="10" length2="15" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="108" type="simpleInteractive"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
             <point id="36" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
@@ -88,8 +91,6 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
             <point id="43" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="44" idObject="20" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="45" idObject="9" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="46" idObject="29" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="47" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="48" idObject="4" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="49" idObject="2" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="50" idObject="23" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
@@ -110,9 +111,6 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
                     <node idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="71" idObject="7" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="72" idObject="8" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="73" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="74" idObject="27" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
             <point id="75" idObject="24" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
             <point id="76" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
@@ -140,14 +138,6 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
                     <node idObject="116" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="118" idObject="15" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="119" idObject="21" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="120" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="dart" type="2" typeLine="hair" visible="1">
-                <nodes>
-                    <node idObject="118" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/>
-                </nodes>
-            </path>
             <point id="121" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="122" idObject="20" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
             <point id="123" idObject="9" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
@@ -178,6 +168,9 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
                     <node idObject="135" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
+            <spline id="139" idObject="138" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="140" idObject="3" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="141" idObject="34" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="55" mx="0.0834221" my="0.0834221" name="front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2">
@@ -191,16 +184,17 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
                 <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="113" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="112" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="36" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="37" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="139" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="37" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node excluded="true" idObject="38" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="39" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="39" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node excluded="true" idObject="41" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="43" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="43" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node excluded="true" idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="110" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="110" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node after="0" idObject="111" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node after="0" before="0" idObject="48" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node before="0" idObject="49" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -243,13 +237,14 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
                 </pins>
             </detail>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="80" mx="-4.26945" my="-1.82976" name="facing" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="1">
-                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="C" mx="-1925.45" my="136.389" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="AngleLine_A19_A2 - 180" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="C" mx="-1925.45" my="136.389" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="AngleLine_A19_A2 - 180" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
                 </data>
                 <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="2" mx="-1964.47" my="428.627" rotation="AngleLine_A19_A2 - 180" visible="true" width="5"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="141" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="140" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="76" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node after="2" idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -257,12 +252,16 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length,
                     <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>140</record>
+                    <record>141</record>
+                </pins>
             </detail>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="96" mx="56.7407" my="-11.4161" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="-1808.78" my="1170.48" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
-                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
                 <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1810.7" my="992.061" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
                 <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
-- 
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