The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments
==============================================================

This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`.

At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they
have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances
from Valentina used instead.

All measurements have also been converted to metric.

Measurements
------------

The blocks have been converted to metric measures.

All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book.

The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in
these blocks and the patterns derived from them.

Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book
itself.

.. _cutters_jackets:

Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3

+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters'             | Valentina                                          |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| Chest                | G04 | ``bust_circ``                                |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Waist                | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Hips                 | G09 | ``hip_circ``                                 |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Scye Depth           | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b``                  |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Natrl Waist          | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b``                     |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Side lenght          | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side``                     |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Long Side Length     | A04 | ``height_armpit``                            |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Across Back          | I08 | ``across_back_b``                            |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Width of B. to Elb.  | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent``     |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Full length sleeve   | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent``     |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Across Chest         | I03 | ``across_chest_f``                           |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Prominence of Bust   | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust``                  |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Neck                 | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2``                            |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Front Sholdr.        | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front``               |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Over Sholdr.         | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front``                  |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Sholdr to waist      | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front``                 |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
|                      | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+

Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle

Skirts and Trousers
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters'             | Valentina                                          |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| Front length         | A13 | ``height_waist_front``                       |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Side length          | A05 | ``height_waist_side``                        |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Back length          | A23 | ``height_waist_back``                        |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Waist to chair       | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting``                 |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+

Riding Habits etc.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters'             | Valentina                                          |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
|                      |     |                                              |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
|                      |     |                                              |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
|                      |     |                                              |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+

Blocks
------

S. B. tight-fitting Jacket
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate
21.

* :download:`ladies_jacket.val`

Skirt
^^^^^

Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38.

* :download:`foundation_skirt.val`