The American System of Dressmaking
==================================

This section follows :cite:`1909:american`.

All measurements have been converted to metric.

Measurements
------------

The blocks have been converted to metric measures.

All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
corset, following the instructions given by the book.

The file :download:`american.vit` include all the measurements used in
these blocks and the patterns derived from them.

Instructions on how to take these measurements start with general
instructions at page 17, then the measurements used in the waists are
described starting from page 20, those for the sleeve from page 53 and
those for the skirt from page 133.

.. figure:: fig_1.svg
   :align: center

.. figure:: fig_2.svg
   :align: center

+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| American System      | Valentina                                          |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| 1 Neck               | G01 | ``neck_mid_circ``                            |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 2 Bust               | G04 | ``bust_circ``                                |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 3 Waist              | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 4 Front              | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front``                 |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 5 Length of back     | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b``                     |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 6 Chest              | I03 | ``across_chest_f``                           |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 7 Width of back      | I08 | ``across_back_b``                            |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 8 Under arm          | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side``                     |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 9 Armhole            | L19 | ``armscye_circ``                             |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 10 Shoulder          | I01 | ``shoulder_length``                          |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+


+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| American System      | Valentina                                          |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| 1 Length of sleeve   | O14 | ``arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent``    |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 2 shoulder to elbow  | --- | ``@arm_armscye_back_center_to_elbow``        |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 3 inside arm         | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``                      |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 4 Armhole            | L19 | ``armscye_circ``                             |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 5 Elbow              | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent``                      |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 6 Hand Measure       | D05 | ``hand_circ``                                |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+


+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| American System      | Valentina                                          |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| 1 Waist              | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 2 Hip                | G09 | ``hip_circ``                                 |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 3                    | H35 | ``waist_to_hip_side``                        |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 4                    | A13 | ``height_waist_front``                       |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 5                    | A05 | ``height_waist_side``                        |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 6                    | A23 | ``height_waist_back``                        |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+


Blocks
------