Sleevelets
==========

.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg
   :align: center

Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on
:cite:`1916:school` from 1916.

They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project,
suitable for beginners.

This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at
the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in
the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed
and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed.
In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic
anyway.

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* ~35 cm washable fabric

Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are
good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the
kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham.

Notions
^^^^^^^

* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
* 2 small buttons;
* 60–70 cm elastic (optional).

Pattern
-------

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the
following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables:

``#elbow_width``
  the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before
  gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm;
``#wrist_width``
  the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before
  gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the
  ``#elbow_width``;
``#length``
  length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the
  original instructions this was 30 cm;
``#cuff_circ``
  the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm;
``#cuff_height``
  height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure.

Instructions
------------

Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut
two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material
doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce
waste.

From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as
the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and
sew all around with a 2 mm allowance.  Carefully cut the slit, turn the
facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all
sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by
machine or hemstitch by hand.

Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with
wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside
out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance.
Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to
press in the opposite direction.

Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either
topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand.

.. note::

   If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long
   enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly.

With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and
sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press.

Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the
rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1
cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and
press towards the cuff.  Fold the other allowance of the cuff and
topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances.

Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to
the other end.

Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where
they don't interfere with the use of the hands.

Gallery
-------