Detached Collars
================

.. figure:: 
   :align: center

.. only:: html

   .. contents::



Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* Leftovers of linen or cotton shirting fabric;
* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing or linen canvas.

If using linen or another crisp fabric you can use the same fabric also
as interfacing, especially if you plan to starch the collars when
wearing them.

Notions
^^^^^^^

* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* buttonhole thread to match the fabric.

Pattern
-------

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`collars.val`.

There is no measurement file, but you need to set the following
measurements in the table of variables in Valentina to change the
styling:

``collar_circumference``
   circumference of the collar, as measured on the shirt you want to use
   this collar with;
``stand_height``
   height of the stand, for two parts collars change this for the
   desired style;
``collar_height``
   height of the collar proper, or the full straightcollar: change this
   for the desired style;
``front_angle``
   angle of the front of the collar;

as well as the following ones, for which the defaults are usually fine:

``rise_of_curve``
   how much the back of the collar should rise compared to the front to
   follow the curve of the neck: the default of 2.5 cm is usually
   sensible;
``buttons_overlap``
   how much the collar should overlap for buttoning;
``stand_rounding``
   how much the front of the stand should be rounded (or the line of the
   collar should go back);
``sewing_allowance``
   the default sewing allowance; if sewing by hand you can make it
   as small as you can manage.

In the Details screen select the pieces you want to print: A and B for a
two piece collar, or one of C or D for a single piece collar
(respectively straight or curved)

Instructions
------------

Cutting
^^^^^^^

For either kind of collar cut all pieces on the fold, twice in the fabric
and twice in the interlining material.

.. tip::
   If it helps using more of the fabric you can cut one of the
   interlining layers in two pieces: don't add a sewing allowance in the
   middle, but just put them side to side and either sew them together
   by machine with a zig-zag or by hand with a herringbone stitch.

One part collar
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Put one layer of interlining at the bottom, the two layers of fabric,
right sides together, and one layer of interlining on top.

Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the
interlining to reduce bulk.

Press carefully, turn inside out.

Continue with the finishing steps.

Two parts collars
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Take the collar pieces and put one layer of interlining at the bottom,
the two layers of fabric, right sides together, and one layer of
interlining on top.

Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the
interlining to reduce bulk.

Press carefully, turn inside out.

Take also the stand pieces and put one layer of interlining at the
bottom, one layer of fabric (right side on top), the collar, the other
layer of fabric (right side below), the final layer of interlining.

Sew around the sides and top. Trim the allowances.

Press carefully, turn inside out.

Continue with the finishing steps.

Finishing
^^^^^^^^^

Press the bottom edge up, whipstitch it closed by hand.

Make buttonholes of a size appropriate for the buttons you have on your
shirts close to the bottom edge of the collar (in the stand for two
parts collars): one in the middle (center back) and two close to the
ends that will close in the center front.

Variants
--------

Attached Collar
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

These patterns also work for a collar attached to its shirt: to make one
simply follow the instructions until the finishing steps, don't do them,
but attach the collar to the shirt as instructed in the shirt
instructions (for shirts with a collar band, treat the full collar as
the collar band).

Gallery
-------

.. figure:: 
   :align: center