Camisole
========

.. figure:: camisole.jpg
   :align: center

A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric.

This is an excellent project to use leftovers.

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity.

You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very
narrow.

Notions
^^^^^^^

* ~20 cm underwear elastic
* sewing thread matching the fabric.

Pattern
-------

Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^

This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.

You need to take the following measurements:

``bust_circ`` (G04)
   Bust circumference.
``waist_circ`` (G07)
   Waist circumference.
``across_back_b`` (I08)
   Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
``neck_circ`` (G02)
   Circumference at the base of the neck.
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
   Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21)
   Depth of the armscye.

the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`camisole.val`.

You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of
Variables; the defaults are sensible.

``finished_length``
  lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual
  camisole will be shorter).
``strap_width``
  width of the straps and of the binding for the back.
``seam_allowance``
  enought for flat felled seams.

Instructions
------------

Cutting
^^^^^^^

Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given
for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric.

Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear
elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding.

.. tip::
   When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big
   enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the
   pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides
   together and leaving the allowances on the outside.

Sewing
^^^^^^

.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg
   :align: center

Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a
narrow zig zag.

.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg
   :align: center

Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges.
Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag.

.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg
   :align: center

Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece,
pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag.

.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg
   :align: center

Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic.

.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams
with a narrow zig zag.

.. tip::
   the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled
   seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is
   smoother.

.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg
   :align: center

Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back
and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a
narrow zig zag to fell the seam.

.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg
   :align: center

Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the
side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag.

.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg
   :align: center

.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the
binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating
part.

.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg
   :align: center

Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag
that catches the raw edge.

Gallery
-------