From b612f3cb9fc5533245aa661bb72c7f26b7fff3ba Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 21:56:58 +0200 Subject: Collection of menswear collars --- .../historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val | 205 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst | 140 ++++++++++++++ source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst | 1 + 3 files changed, 346 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst (limited to 'source') diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb3108b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val @@ -0,0 +1,205 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + + + Collar collection + + + + 2000-01-01 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 25 + 26 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 49 + 50 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 47 + 48 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 67 + 68 + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c787483 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,140 @@ +1880s Shirt +=========== + +.. figure:: + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + + + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Leftovers of linen or cotton shirting fabric; +* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing or linen canvas. + +If using linen or another crisp fabric you can use the same fabric also +as interfacing, especially if you plan to starch the collars when +wearing them. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`collars.val`. + +There is no measurement file, but you need to set the following +measurements in the table of variables in Valentina to change the +styling: + +``collar_circumference`` + circumference of the collar, as measured on the shirt you want to use + this collar with; +``stand_height`` + height of the stand, for two parts collars, or the full collar for + standing collars: change this for the desired style; +``collar_height`` + height of the collar proper: change this for the desired style; +``front_angle`` + angle of the front of the collar; + +as well as the following ones, for which the defaults are usually fine: + +``rise_of_curve`` + how much the back of the collar should rise compared to the front to + follow the curve of the neck: the default of 2.5 cm is usually + sensible; +``buttons_overlap`` + how much the collar should overlap for buttoning; +``stand_rounding`` + how much the front of the stand should be rounded (or the line of the + collar should go back); +``sewing_allowance`` + the default sewing allowance; if sewing by hand you can make it + as small as you can manage. + +In the Details screen select the pieces you want to print: A and B for a +two piece collar, or one of C or D for a single piece collar +(respectively straight or curved) + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +For either kind of collar cut all pieces on the fold, twice in the fabric +and twice in the interlining material. + +.. tip:: + If it helps using more of the fabric you can cut one of the + interlining layers in two pieces: don't add a sewing allowance in the + middle, but just put them side to side and either sew them together + by machine with a zig-zag or by hand with a herringbone stitch. + +Simple collar +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Put one layer of interlining at the bottom, the two layers of fabric, +right sides together, and one layer of interlining on top. + +Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the +interlining to reduce bulk. + +Press carefully, turn inside out. + +Press the bottom edge up, whipstitch it closed by hand. + +Continue with the finishing steps. + +Two parts collars +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Take the collar pieces and put one layer of interlining at the bottom, +the two layers of fabric, right sides together, and one layer of +interlining on top. + +Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the +interlining to reduce bulk. + +Press carefully, turn inside out. + +Take also the stand pieces and put one layer of interlining at the +bottom, one layer of fabric (right side on top), the collar, the other +layer of fabric (right side below), the final layer of interlining. + +Sew around the sides and top. Trim the allowances. + +Press carefully, turn inside out. + +Press the bottom edge up, whipstitch it closed by hand. + +Continue with the finishing steps. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +Make buttonholes of a size appropriate for the buttons you have on your +shirts close to the bottom edge of the collar (in the stand for two +parts collars): one in the middle (center back) and two close to the +ends that will close in the center front. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst index 8f77417..fe991cb 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst @@ -7,4 +7,5 @@ :caption: Contents: 1880s_shirt/index + collars/index -- cgit v1.2.3