From 4443b0ba5437c84c7123f2c00a85342d0bdfb454 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2024 21:08:08 +0100 Subject: Start drawers pattern --- .../underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val | 114 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst | 99 ++++++++++++++++++ .../underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit | 20 ++++ source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst | 1 + 4 files changed, 234 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit (limited to 'source') diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df3ae69 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + + + 1838 drawers + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 32 + 33 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e5007e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,99 @@ +1838 Drawers +============ + +.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one +size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*; +they are, converted to cm: + + +====== == +meas cm +====== == +width 80 +length 86 +A to B 23 +B to C 46 +C to G 40 +C to E 40 +F to G 6 +F to S 29 +====== == + +For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the +distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and +allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) +fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the +hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to +*twice* the circumference of the hips). + +For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between +the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested +measurements, and scale everything else in proportion. + +For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for +the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe +3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back. + +There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + + + + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + + +Variants +-------- + + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92fd2b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index c7e5381..fee8a48 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -10,4 +10,5 @@ 1904_combination_suit/index single_layer_midbust_corset/index 1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index + 1838_drawers/index -- cgit v1.2.3