From 5eb60325377f0b77d4274ef4bfd7b1c26f4ac7e4 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2023 20:25:57 +0200 Subject: Corset pattern --- .../single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt | 367 +++++++++++++ .../single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst | 45 +- .../single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit | 4 +- .../single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val | 586 +++++++++++++++++++-- 4 files changed, 949 insertions(+), 53 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear') diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..404f5f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_layout.vlt @@ -0,0 +1,367 @@ + + + + + cm + + + + + + + + + + + + + -453.254031749,-621.114278159 -184.447107155,-574.584172544 -196.771653543,-451.338708661 -201.496062992,39.9998740157 -154.251968504,417.952629921 -154.251968504,424.645543307 -431.102362205,461.125782832 -431.102362205,417.952629921 -421.181102362,39.9998740157 -423.543307087,-451.338708661 -453.254031749,-621.114278159 + -532.552019293,-635.735334453 -109.684210305,-562.537503544 -121.217344043,-447.206166164 -125.860248372,35.6558840224 -78.6614173228,413.246532412 -78.6614173228,415.574263616 -506.692913386,471.975453051 -506.692913386,416.960674787 -496.776422681,39.1896003276 -499.102305929,-444.594115229 -532.552019293,-635.735334453 + -311.338582677,417.952629921 -317.801955464,400.194659135 -304.87520989,400.194659135 -311.338582677,417.952629921 -311.338582677,-337.95288189 -304.87520989,-320.194911103 -317.801955464,-320.194911103 -311.338582677,-337.95288189 + + + -496.797692366,39.9998740157 -421.181102362,39.9998740157 -201.496062992,39.9998740157 -125.317249622,39.9998740157 + + + + + + B + panel_2 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + 24.0308087625,-525.95359913 203.659251691,-574.835260309 193.779527559,-451.338708661 178.661417323,39.9998740157 235.354330709,417.952629921 235.354330709,484.146745588 -11.5748031496,387.243968504 45.1181102362,39.9998740157 30,-451.338708661 24.0308087625,-525.95359913 + 281.253636653,-596.864382896 269.277271578,-447.159819469 254.425596039,35.5196355509 310.94488189,412.314874554 310.94488189,514.757888421 -83.6997233993,359.886903309 -30.6612495449,35.0262509504 -45.4977440194,-447.159819469 -50.2570807429,-506.651528513 281.253636653,-596.864382896 + 111.88976378,417.952629921 105.426390992,400.194659135 118.353136567,400.194659135 111.88976378,417.952629921 111.88976378,-337.95288189 118.353136567,-320.194911103 105.426390992,-320.194911103 111.88976378,-337.95288189 + + + -31.4732696372,39.9998740157 45.1181102362,39.9998740157 178.661417323,39.9998740157 255.097631809,39.9998740157 + + + + + + D + panel_4 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + -209.096199932,-574.584172544 33.7379942892,-526.098594445 30,-451.338708661 25.2755905512,39.9998740157 115.039370079,387.243968504 -239.291338583,424.645543307 -239.291338583,417.952629921 -192.047244094,39.9998740157 -196.771653543,-451.338708661 -209.096199932,-574.584172544 + -286.703204332,-590.978579044 108.719364327,-512.026387421 105.572394319,-449.086987263 100.958621345,30.745401982 191.263969263,380.084511031 -314.881889764,433.511018373 -314.881889764,413.246532412 -267.683058715,35.6558840224 -272.325963044,-447.206166164 -286.703204332,-590.978579044 + -83.3858267717,399.054992126 -89.8491995589,381.297021339 -76.9224539844,381.297021339 -83.3858267717,399.054992126 -83.3858267717,-319.055244094 -76.9224539844,-301.297273308 -89.8491995589,-301.297273308 -83.3858267717,-319.055244094 + + + -268.226057464,39.9998740157 -192.047244094,39.9998740157 25.2755905512,39.9998740157 103.350933844,39.9998740157 + + + + + + C + panel_3 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + 183.899803427,-574.835260309 371.134791155,-621.035409127 357.559055118,-451.338708661 342.440944882,39.9998740157 399.133858268,417.952629921 399.133858268,552.011334238 152.204724409,484.146745588 152.204724409,417.952629921 208.897637795,39.9998740157 193.779527559,-451.338708661 183.899803427,-574.835260309 + 448.568016651,-641.050038385 433.056799137,-447.159819469 418.205123598,35.5196355509 474.724409449,412.314874554 474.724409449,573.700471466 76.6141732283,464.286134662 76.6141732283,412.314874554 133.133459079,35.5196355509 118.28178354,-447.159819469 109.464458044,-557.376388164 448.568016651,-641.050038385 + 275.669291339,417.952629921 269.205918551,400.194659135 282.132664126,400.194659135 275.669291339,417.952629921 275.669291339,-337.95288189 282.132664126,-320.194911103 269.205918551,-320.194911103 275.669291339,-337.95288189 + + + 132.461423309,39.9998740157 208.897637795,39.9998740157 342.440944882,39.9998740157 418.877159368,39.9998740157 + + + + + + E + panel_5 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + 343.983319081,-621.035409127 578.031496063,-678.110362205 812.079673045,-621.035409127 798.503937008,-451.338708661 783.385826772,39.9998740157 840.078740157,417.952629921 840.078740157,552.011334238 578.031496063,626.140346457 315.984251969,552.011334238 315.984251969,417.952629921 372.677165354,39.9998740157 357.559055118,-451.338708661 343.983319081,-621.035409127 + 577.822635895,-678.966838453 813.01834475,-621.713913644 799.382704241,-451.268407283 784.266984557,40.026986563 840.950561528,417.821856716 840.960314961,552.678120052 578.271462882,626.988633 240.393700787,531.544134682 240.393700787,412.314874554 296.912986638,35.5196355509 282.061311099,-447.159819469 269.531142932,-603.786921557 577.822635895,-678.966838453 + 578.031496063,626.140346457 571.568123276,608.38237567 584.49486885,608.38237567 578.031496063,626.140346457 578.031496063,-678.110362205 584.49486885,-660.352391418 571.568123276,-660.352391418 578.031496063,-678.110362205 + + + 296.240950868,39.9998740157 372.677165354,39.9998740157 578.031496063,39.9998740157 784.262916646,39.9998740157 + + + + + + F + panel_6 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + + + Sheet 1 + + + + + -453.254031749,-621.114278159 -184.447107155,-574.584172544 -196.771653543,-451.338708661 -201.496062992,39.9998740157 -154.251968504,417.952629921 -154.251968504,424.645543307 -431.102362205,461.125782832 -431.102362205,417.952629921 -421.181102362,39.9998740157 -423.543307087,-451.338708661 -453.254031749,-621.114278159 + -532.552019293,-635.735334453 -109.684210305,-562.537503544 -121.217344043,-447.206166164 -125.860248372,35.6558840224 -78.6614173228,413.246532412 -78.6614173228,415.574263616 -506.692913386,471.975453051 -506.692913386,416.960674787 -496.776422681,39.1896003276 -499.102305929,-444.594115229 -532.552019293,-635.735334453 + -311.338582677,417.952629921 -317.801955464,400.194659135 -304.87520989,400.194659135 -311.338582677,417.952629921 -311.338582677,-337.95288189 -304.87520989,-320.194911103 -317.801955464,-320.194911103 -311.338582677,-337.95288189 + + + -496.797692366,39.9998740157 -421.181102362,39.9998740157 -201.496062992,39.9998740157 -125.317249622,39.9998740157 + + + + + + B + panel_2 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + -650.31496063,-678.110362205 -393.832582425,-621.114278159 -423.543307087,-451.338708661 -425.905511811,39.9998740157 -415.984251969,417.952629921 -416.847542386,461.117150791 -650.31496063,493.543181102 -650.31496063,-678.110362205 + -725.905511811,-695.811342255 -392.818988871,-621.792114935 -422.674929046,-451.186742504 -425.023947196,40.0041123072 -415.102980739,417.929496551 -415.981185479,461.886860475 -725.905511811,504.931905799 -725.905511811,-695.811342255 + -644.607493354,493.543181102 -651.070866142,475.785210316 -638.144120567,475.785210316 -644.607493354,493.543181102 -644.607493354,-678.110362205 -638.144120567,-660.352391418 -651.070866142,-660.352391418 -644.607493354,-678.110362205 + + + -725.905511811,39.9998740157 -650.31496063,39.9998740157 -425.905511811,39.9998740157 -425.024058456,39.9998740157 + + + + + + A2 + panel_1_right_facing + Fabric, Cut 1 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + -906.797338835,-621.114278159 -650.31496063,-678.110362205 -650.31496063,493.543181102 -883.782378874,461.117150791 -884.645669291,417.952629921 -874.724409449,39.9998740157 -877.086614173,-451.338708661 -906.797338835,-621.114278159 + -574.724409449,-695.811342255 -574.724409449,504.931905799 -959.580797075,451.479629739 -960.256060195,417.716473737 -950.319729768,39.1896003276 -952.645613016,-444.594115229 -980.816170376,-605.568728716 -574.724409449,-695.811342255 + -656.022427905,493.543181102 -662.485800693,475.785210316 -649.559055118,475.785210316 -656.022427905,493.543181102 -656.022427905,-678.110362205 -649.559055118,-660.352391418 -662.485800693,-660.352391418 -656.022427905,-678.110362205 + + + -950.340999452,39.9998740157 -874.724409449,39.9998740157 -650.31496063,39.9998740157 -574.724409449,39.9998740157 + -762.519685039,-653.175979003 -762.519685039,477.959191601 + + + + + + A1 + panel_1_right + Fabric, Cut 1 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + 24.0308087625,-525.95359913 203.659251691,-574.835260309 193.779527559,-451.338708661 178.661417323,39.9998740157 235.354330709,417.952629921 235.354330709,484.146745588 -11.5748031496,387.243968504 45.1181102362,39.9998740157 30,-451.338708661 24.0308087625,-525.95359913 + 281.253636653,-596.864382896 269.277271578,-447.159819469 254.425596039,35.5196355509 310.94488189,412.314874554 310.94488189,514.757888421 -83.6997233993,359.886903309 -30.6612495449,35.0262509504 -45.4977440194,-447.159819469 -50.2570807429,-506.651528513 281.253636653,-596.864382896 + 111.88976378,417.952629921 105.426390992,400.194659135 118.353136567,400.194659135 111.88976378,417.952629921 111.88976378,-337.95288189 118.353136567,-320.194911103 105.426390992,-320.194911103 111.88976378,-337.95288189 + + + -31.4732696372,39.9998740157 45.1181102362,39.9998740157 178.661417323,39.9998740157 255.097631809,39.9998740157 + + + + + + D + panel_4 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + -209.096199932,-574.584172544 33.7379942892,-526.098594445 30,-451.338708661 25.2755905512,39.9998740157 115.039370079,387.243968504 -239.291338583,424.645543307 -239.291338583,417.952629921 -192.047244094,39.9998740157 -196.771653543,-451.338708661 -209.096199932,-574.584172544 + -286.703204332,-590.978579044 108.719364327,-512.026387421 105.572394319,-449.086987263 100.958621345,30.745401982 191.263969263,380.084511031 -314.881889764,433.511018373 -314.881889764,413.246532412 -267.683058715,35.6558840224 -272.325963044,-447.206166164 -286.703204332,-590.978579044 + -83.3858267717,399.054992126 -89.8491995589,381.297021339 -76.9224539844,381.297021339 -83.3858267717,399.054992126 -83.3858267717,-319.055244094 -76.9224539844,-301.297273308 -89.8491995589,-301.297273308 -83.3858267717,-319.055244094 + + + -268.226057464,39.9998740157 -192.047244094,39.9998740157 25.2755905512,39.9998740157 103.350933844,39.9998740157 + + + + + + C + panel_3 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + -650.31496063,-678.110362205 -393.832582425,-621.114278159 -423.543307087,-451.338708661 -425.905511811,39.9998740157 -415.984251969,417.952629921 -416.847542386,461.117150791 -650.31496063,493.543181102 -883.782378874,461.117150791 -884.645669291,417.952629921 -874.724409449,39.9998740157 -877.086614173,-451.338708661 -906.797338835,-621.114278159 -650.31496063,-678.110362205 + -650.506201056,-678.97094412 -319.813750884,-605.568728716 -347.984308244,-444.594115229 -350.310191492,39.1896003276 -340.373861065,417.716473737 -341.049124185,451.479629739 -650.19368382,494.416374133 -884.648735781,461.886860475 -885.527067832,417.970257892 -875.605680679,39.976740646 -877.968178788,-451.33447037 -907.810932389,-621.792114935 -650.506201056,-678.97094412 + -650.31496063,493.543181102 -656.778333417,475.785210316 -643.851587843,475.785210316 -650.31496063,493.543181102 -650.31496063,-678.110362205 -643.851587843,-660.352391418 -656.778333417,-660.352391418 -650.31496063,-678.110362205 + + + -875.605569441,39.9998740157 -650.31496063,39.9998740157 -425.905511811,39.9998740157 -350.288921808,39.9998740157 + -538.11023622,-653.175979003 -538.11023622,477.959191601 + + + + + + A + panel_1_left + Fabric, Cut 1 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + 183.899803427,-574.835260309 371.134791155,-621.035409127 357.559055118,-451.338708661 342.440944882,39.9998740157 399.133858268,417.952629921 399.133858268,552.011334238 152.204724409,484.146745588 152.204724409,417.952629921 208.897637795,39.9998740157 193.779527559,-451.338708661 183.899803427,-574.835260309 + 448.568016651,-641.050038385 433.056799137,-447.159819469 418.205123598,35.5196355509 474.724409449,412.314874554 474.724409449,573.700471466 76.6141732283,464.286134662 76.6141732283,412.314874554 133.133459079,35.5196355509 118.28178354,-447.159819469 109.464458044,-557.376388164 448.568016651,-641.050038385 + 275.669291339,417.952629921 269.205918551,400.194659135 282.132664126,400.194659135 275.669291339,417.952629921 275.669291339,-337.95288189 282.132664126,-320.194911103 269.205918551,-320.194911103 275.669291339,-337.95288189 + + + 132.461423309,39.9998740157 208.897637795,39.9998740157 342.440944882,39.9998740157 418.877159368,39.9998740157 + + + + + + E + panel_5 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + 343.983319081,-621.035409127 578.031496063,-678.110362205 812.079673045,-621.035409127 798.503937008,-451.338708661 783.385826772,39.9998740157 840.078740157,417.952629921 840.078740157,552.011334238 578.031496063,626.140346457 315.984251969,552.011334238 315.984251969,417.952629921 372.677165354,39.9998740157 357.559055118,-451.338708661 343.983319081,-621.035409127 + 577.822635895,-678.966838453 813.01834475,-621.713913644 799.382704241,-451.268407283 784.266984557,40.026986563 840.950561528,417.821856716 840.960314961,552.678120052 578.271462882,626.988633 240.393700787,531.544134682 240.393700787,412.314874554 296.912986638,35.5196355509 282.061311099,-447.159819469 269.531142932,-603.786921557 577.822635895,-678.966838453 + 578.031496063,626.140346457 571.568123276,608.38237567 584.49486885,608.38237567 578.031496063,626.140346457 578.031496063,-678.110362205 584.49486885,-660.352391418 571.568123276,-660.352391418 578.031496063,-678.110362205 + + + 296.240950868,39.9998740157 372.677165354,39.9998740157 578.031496063,39.9998740157 784.262916646,39.9998740157 + + + + + + F + panel_6 + Fabric, Cut 2 + + + + + Midbust corset + measurements + 2023-12-17 + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst index e037678..db1c0a1 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst @@ -4,7 +4,8 @@ Single Layer Midbust Corset .. figure:: :align: center -This is a simple corset in 6 panels, suitable for a generic victorian +This is a simple corset in 6 panels, suitable for a generic victorian +model. Materials --------- @@ -19,8 +20,9 @@ Notions * strong sewing thread to match the fabric; * boning: either ~ 14 m 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 10 mmspiral - steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel; -* one steel busk; + steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel (precise amounts will depend on the + height of the corset); +* one steel busk to fit the center front height; * ~ 4 m 25 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same amount premade boning channel tape; * less than 1 m 10 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; @@ -138,15 +140,44 @@ table of variables: Instructions ------------ +Mockup +^^^^^^ + +If this is the first time you're making a corset from this pattern it's +strongly recommended that you start by making a mockup: + Cutting ^^^^^^^ -Cut 2 of panels 2-5, cut 2 of panels 1 and 5 *on the fold* (both the -center front and the center back panels will have two layers, everything -else will be single layer). +Making sure to follow the grainline, cut 2 each of panels 2-6, 1 of panels 1 +left, right and right facing (both the center front and the center back +panels will have two layers, everything else will be single layer). + +Note that the pattern is for a corset with internal boning channels: if +making external boning channels you will have to mirror all panel 1 +pieces. + +Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. Optionally +mark also the center panel line (grainline) if you want to add boning on +it. + +Busk Insertion +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Panels +^^^^^^ + +Boning +^^^^^^ -Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. +Lacing holes +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Binding +^^^^^^^ +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ Variants -------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit index 27a24d8..ccb1b45 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit @@ -18,8 +18,8 @@ - - + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val index 534577f..a81329b 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val @@ -5,13 +5,24 @@ cm + Midbust corset + + + + + + + + + + - + - - + + @@ -24,10 +35,10 @@ - - + + - + @@ -36,16 +47,16 @@ - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + @@ -54,14 +65,14 @@ - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + @@ -70,33 +81,520 @@ - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + - -
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 186 + 226 + 227 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 187 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 188 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 189 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 190 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 191 + 239 + 240 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 263 + 265 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 264 + 266 + + +
-- cgit v1.2.3