From 33a18f3b6e29e12237798cfcf678da4b4ed37a26 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 23:01:55 +0100
Subject: New pattern: combination suit.

---
 .../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit               |  38 +++++++++++
 .../drafting_methods/blair/index.rst               |  76 +++++++++++++++++++++
 .../drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png        | Bin 0 -> 137162 bytes
 .../drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit              |  37 ----------
 .../drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst              |  74 --------------------
 .../drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png       | Bin 137162 -> 0 bytes
 .../drafting_methods/index.rst                     |   2 +-
 7 files changed, 115 insertions(+), 112 deletions(-)
 create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit
 create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst
 create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png
 delete mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
 delete mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
 delete mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png

(limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods')

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..44b5eea
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,38 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+    <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.5.2</version>
+    <read-only>false</read-only>
+    <notes/>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+    <personal>
+        <customer/>
+        <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+        <gender>unknown</gender>
+        <email/>
+    </personal>
+    <body-measurements>
+        <m name="neck_circ" value="30"/>
+        <m name="bust_circ" value="86"/>
+        <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="36"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="37"/>
+        <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="22"/>
+        <m name="across_chest_f" value="33"/>
+        <m name="across_back_b" value="29"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/>
+        <m name="arm_upper_circ" value="30"/>
+        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="60"/>
+        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent" value="41"/>
+        <m full_name="Outside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@outside_arm_to_elbow" value="34"/>
+        <m full_name="Inside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@inside_arm_to_elbow" value="24"/>
+        <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="30"/>
+        <m name="hip_circ" value="97"/>
+        <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/>
+        <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/>
+        <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/>
+        <m name="leg_waist_side_to_knee" value="60"/>
+    </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c4e54a1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,76 @@
+Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting.
+==========================================================
+
+This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`.
+
+All measurements have been converted to metric.
+
+Measurements
+------------
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset, following the instructions given by the book.
+
+The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in
+these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
+
+Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of
+:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and
+page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`..
+
+.. figure:: measurements.png
+   :align: center
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Blair's              | Valentina                                          |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1 Neck               | G02 | ``neck_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2 Bust               | G04 | ``bust_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3 Waist              | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4 Front              | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front``                 |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5 Length of Back     | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6 Back Balance       | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back``               |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 7 Under Arm          | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 8 Chest              | I03 | ``across_chest_f``                           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 9 Width of Back      | I08 | ``across_back_b``                            |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 10 Shoulder          | I01 | ``shoulder_length``                          |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 11 Arm's Eye         | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ``                           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 12 Shoulder to Hand  | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent``           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 14 Outside Arm's…    |     | ``outside_arm_to_elbow``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 15 Inside Arm's…     |     | ``inside_arm_to_elbow``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 16 Elbow             | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 17 Hip               | G09 | ``hip_circ``                                 |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Dart No. 1           | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f``                          |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Hand Measure         | D05 | ``hand_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Inside Arm           | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Drawers Length       | M14 | ``leg_waist_side_to_knee``                   |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Blocks
+------
+
+
+
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0e9ea9
Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png differ
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
deleted file mode 100644
index 7936b21..0000000
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,37 +0,0 @@
-<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
-<vit>
-    <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
-    <version>0.5.2</version>
-    <read-only>false</read-only>
-    <notes/>
-    <unit>cm</unit>
-    <pm_system>998</pm_system>
-    <personal>
-        <customer/>
-        <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
-        <gender>unknown</gender>
-        <email/>
-    </personal>
-    <body-measurements>
-        <m name="neck_circ" value="30"/>
-        <m name="bust_circ" value="86"/>
-        <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/>
-        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/>
-        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="36"/>
-        <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="37"/>
-        <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="22"/>
-        <m name="across_chest_f" value="33"/>
-        <m name="across_back_b" value="29"/>
-        <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/>
-        <m name="arm_upper_circ" value="30"/>
-        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="60"/>
-        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent" value="41"/>
-        <m full_name="Outside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@outside_arm_to_elbow" value="34"/>
-        <m full_name="Inside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@inside_arm_to_elbow" value="24"/>
-        <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="30"/>
-        <m name="hip_circ" value="97"/>
-        <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/>
-        <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/>
-        <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/>
-    </body-measurements>
-</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
deleted file mode 100644
index 0b97cf8..0000000
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,74 +0,0 @@
-Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting.
-==========================================================
-
-This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`.
-
-All measurements have been converted to metric.
-
-Measurements
-------------
-
-The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
-
-All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
-corset, following the instructions given by the book.
-
-The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in
-these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
-
-Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of
-:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and
-page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`..
-
-.. figure:: measurements.png
-   :align: center
-
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| Blair's              | Valentina                                          |
-+======================+=====+==============================================+
-| 1 Neck               | G02 | ``neck_circ``                                |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 2 Bust               | G04 | ``bust_circ``                                |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 3 Waist              | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 4 Front              | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front``                 |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 5 Length of Back     | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b``                     |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 6 Back Balance       | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back``               |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 7 Under Arm          | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side``                     |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 8 Chest              | I03 | ``across_chest_f``                           |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 9 Width of Back      | I08 | ``across_back_b``                            |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 10 Shoulder          | I01 | ``shoulder_length``                          |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 11 Arm's Eye         | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ``                           |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 12 Shoulder to Hand  | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``           |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent``           |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 14 Outside Arm's…    |     | ``outside_arm_to_elbow``                     |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 15 Inside Arm's…     |     | ``inside_arm_to_elbow``                      |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 16 Elbow             | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent``                      |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| 17 Hip               | G09 | ``hip_circ``                                 |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| Dart No. 1           | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f``                          |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| Hand Measure         | D05 | ``hand_circ``                                |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-| Inside Arm           | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``                      |
-+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
-
-Blocks
-------
-
-
-
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png
deleted file mode 100644
index a0e9ea9..0000000
Binary files a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png and /dev/null differ
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
index 53e77f3..97321bc 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
@@ -8,5 +8,5 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files.
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
 
-   blairs/index
+   blair/index
    cutters/index
-- 
cgit v1.2.3