From d6b30bab4776b83888eb1dfb1b2b181186d386dd Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2022 20:17:07 +0200
Subject: Variant for the 1880 shirt
---
.../shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 21 +++++++++++++++++++++
1 file changed, 21 insertions(+)
(limited to 'source/historical_menswear')
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index b594f29..eaeebde 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -670,6 +670,27 @@ button and buttonholes on the front placket.
Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the
half dozen :)
+Variants
+--------
+
+Flat front
+^^^^^^^^^^
+
+To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front
+that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and
+as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``.
+
+Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3``
+plus an additional ``#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width / 2``:
+this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a
+front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below.
+
+Fold down the button placket twice either to the right or the wrong
+side, as described above, hemstitch the right placket and topstitch the
+left.
+
+Continue working the rest of the shirt.
+
Gallery
-------
--
cgit v1.2.3
From 57c41f64874c6e1b501818497875030c43c6829e Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 9 Dec 2022 13:56:08 +0100
Subject: Typo in the front slit formula
---
source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 2 +-
1 file changed, 1 insertion(+), 1 deletion(-)
(limited to 'source/historical_menswear')
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index eaeebde..e88f62a 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -681,7 +681,7 @@ that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and
as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``.
Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3``
-plus an additional ``#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width / 2``:
+plus an additional ``(#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width) / 2``:
this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a
front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below.
--
cgit v1.2.3
From 2ec8fba01fdf0f7879805280df539e43329f4dc7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:25:19 +0100
Subject: Finished flat front variant of the shirt
---
.../shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg | Bin 0 -> 2060068 bytes
.../shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1969160 bytes
.../historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 10 ++++++++--
3 files changed, 8 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-)
create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg
create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg
(limited to 'source/historical_menswear')
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6fe8221
Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..02295ea
Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index e88f62a..aad06dc 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -222,8 +222,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam
-lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
-seaming allowance.
+lines on the front and back, and if you are sure about them cut them
+with a double seaming allowance.
.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
:align: center
@@ -676,6 +676,9 @@ Variants
Flat front
^^^^^^^^^^
+.. figure:: 0801-cuts.jpg
+ :align: center
+
To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front
that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and
as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``.
@@ -685,6 +688,9 @@ plus an additional ``(#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width) / 2``:
this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a
front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below.
+.. figure:: 0802-ready.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Fold down the button placket twice either to the right or the wrong
side, as described above, hemstitch the right placket and topstitch the
left.
--
cgit v1.2.3