From e8dfc965f6d5ff2a8c5d593299c5cb82cade380c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2022 21:17:40 +0200 Subject: Shirt pics --- .../shirts/1880_shirt/0201-sew_collar.jpg | Bin 37799 -> 309326 bytes .../shirts/1880_shirt/0308-back_band_gathers.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1662095 bytes .../shirts/1880_shirt/0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1239152 bytes .../1880_shirt/0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1083047 bytes .../1880_shirt/0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1046055 bytes .../shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 23 ++++++++++++++++----- 6 files changed, 18 insertions(+), 5 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0308-back_band_gathers.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg (limited to 'source/historical_menswear') diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0201-sew_collar.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0201-sew_collar.jpg index 8022cdb..2a1e996 100644 Binary files a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0201-sew_collar.jpg and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0201-sew_collar.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0308-back_band_gathers.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0308-back_band_gathers.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e7206b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0308-back_band_gathers.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4b66a3a Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7ee942f Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e2901a Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index b82ff16..beb8097 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -222,7 +222,7 @@ If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center and bast them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a -– g and h – g is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of +– g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of fabric along the fold. .. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg @@ -371,18 +371,30 @@ the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it. +.. figure:: 0308-back_band_gathers.jpg + :align: center + Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased. +.. figure:: 0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg + :align: center + Place two shoulder piece on top of each other, backstitch the center -seam and press open. Repeat with the two other collar pieces. +seam and press open. Repeat with the two other shoulder pieces. + +.. figure:: 0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg + :align: center Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back, then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and remove the collar from the assembly. +.. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg + :align: center + Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two shoulders. Press up. @@ -451,13 +463,14 @@ double allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the opposite direction). -Cut the slit one third of the way in, towards the front of the sleeve, +Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the backof the sleeve, fold down the edges twice and hem stitch them down. From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to -the top of the slit on both sides, using an applique stitch on the -outside and a hemstitch on the inside. +the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit +edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a +hemstitch on the inside. Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the -- cgit v1.2.3