From cab6c90ec6e121599381ca085e13fb86fe93ccf0 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2022 19:57:36 +0200
Subject: pattern improvements
---
.../shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 35 +++++++++++-----------
1 file changed, 18 insertions(+), 17 deletions(-)
(limited to 'source/historical_menswear')
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 96c4db9..5dcfee7 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -25,8 +25,8 @@ you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front
opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era.
I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would
-be hand sewn in the home, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home
-were most definitely a thing (and is mentioned in a later chapter of the
+be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most
+definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the
book).
If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine
@@ -65,25 +65,26 @@ Measurements
You need to take the following measurements:
``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
- ;
+ vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee;
``neck_circ`` (G02)
- ;
+ circumference of the neck;
``bust_circ`` (G04)
- ;
+ circumference of the torso, just below the armholes;
``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01)
- ;
+ vertical distance from the front of the neck to the waist;
``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05)
- ;
+ vertical distance from the side of the neck to the waist in the
+ front;
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
- ;
+ vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist;
``shoulder_length`` (I01)
- ;
+ distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder;
``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07)
- ;
+ distance from one shoulder tip to the other one;
``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01)
- ;
+ distance from the shoulder tip to the wrist, following a bent arm;
``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15)
- ;
+ circumference of the wrist;
refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the
file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and
@@ -221,8 +222,8 @@ seaming allowance.
If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the
best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the
rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center
-and bast them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a
-– g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of
+and baste them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance
+a – g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of
fabric along the fold.
.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
@@ -281,9 +282,9 @@ Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg
:align: center
-Put two cuff pieces right sides together with the interfacing on top,
-backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the trapezium),
-leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.
+Put two cuff pieces right sides together (with the optional interfacing
+on top), backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the
+trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.
.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg
:align: center
--
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