From 9119b9749fd2ce243c410987d7b99089a81d25d0 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2022 07:31:14 +0200 Subject: Rename shirt to refer to the decade, not year --- .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0101-marking_armholes.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1397851 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0102-cutting_tongue.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1027251 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0201-sew_collar.jpg | Bin 0 -> 309326 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0202-pressed_collar.jpg | Bin 0 -> 394042 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0203-sew_cuffs.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1070171 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0204-press_cuffs.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1107220 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0205-tongue.jpg | Bin 0 -> 330790 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0301-folded_pleats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1279538 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0302-sewn_pleats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1336061 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0303-sewn_plackets.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1226894 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg | Bin 0 -> 692665 bytes 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b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0603-armscye_measurement.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1880_shirt.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2bb040d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1880_shirt.val @@ -0,0 +1,519 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + + + 1880 gentleman's shirt + + Beeton's housewife's +treasury… + + + + + + + + + shirt.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 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+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 65 + 66 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 67 + 68 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 219 + 220 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 134 + 135 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 150 + 151 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 170 + 171 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770-6.svg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770-6.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e525140 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770-6.svg @@ -0,0 +1,51 @@ + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770-7.svg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770-7.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cbefd48 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770-7.svg @@ -0,0 +1,51 @@ + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770.svg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f8d9c99 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-770.svg @@ -0,0 +1,55 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-773.svg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-773.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe780a6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/gri_33125012088023-773.svg @@ -0,0 +1,51 @@ + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..93e7896 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,629 @@ +1880s Shirt +=========== + +.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg + :align: center + +A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's +treasury of domestic information +`_ +from around 1880. + +While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern +instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either), +so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual +for a modern pattern. + +Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a +mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may +want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece. + +This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've +seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use +a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but +you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front +opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. + +I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would +be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most +definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the +book). + +If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine +everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything +else (this option looks pretty close to a fully handsewn garment), or to +sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every time the +instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for +historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however, +unless that's not a concern. + +The pictures in this page are of a shirt where the backstitching is done +by machine, and everything else by hand. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric; +* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs (optional). + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 5 or more small buttons. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee; +``neck_circ`` (G02) + circumference of the neck; +``bust_circ`` (G04) + circumference of the torso, just below the armholes; +``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01) + vertical distance from the front of the neck to the waist; +``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05) + vertical distance from the side of the neck to the waist in the + front; +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist; +``shoulder_length`` (I01) + distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder; +``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07) + distance from one shoulder tip to the other one; +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01) + distance from the shoulder tip to the wrist, following a bent arm; +``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15) + circumference of the wrist; + +refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the +file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and +has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible, +but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits +nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible: + +``shirt_length_back`` + usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``; +``shirt_length_front`` + a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back; +``shirt_width`` + the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the + width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical), + and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine; +``front_slit_length`` + the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily + be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement +``button_placket_width`` + the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste; +``ease`` + the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two + variables; +``front_slit_width`` + the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at + least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be + pleated; +``front_gathers_width`` + the final width to which the material in the front slit is pleated / + gathered: at least the width of the button placket; +``front_band_height`` + the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to + taste; +``yoke_depth`` + from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends in the back, to taste; +``cuff_length`` + length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste, or 2 cm for a cuff band used + with detached cuffs; +``sleeve_length`` + length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half + the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to + be; +``sleeve_width`` + the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this + is often half the ``shirt_width``; +``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` + the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before + gathering it into the cuff; +``sleeve_slit`` + the length of the slit at the wrist: 6 cm or to taste; +``collar_band_height`` + the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2 + cm is usually fine; +``sewing_allowance`` + the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering + that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be + cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin + fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit + more. + +The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are +used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width`` +from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can +ignore them. + +The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as +those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements in Draw +mode as follows: + +back: + a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as + ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1); +front: + a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as + ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8); +sleeves: + the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of + ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of + ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds + to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the + other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a + rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as + ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained + below. + +This pattern also includes just a collar band, which is used with +detached collars; you can of course add a full collar from any other +source. There is however a choice between a straight collar band (as +used in the book) and a more fitted curved collar band. + +Instructions +------------ + +Pattern adjustments +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Print the shoulder piece pattern and try it on; make any adjustments to +it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck +and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving +the space for the button placket. + +You probably need to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then +bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +.. tip:: + + While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular + pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip + them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread. + +Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. + +.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg + :align: center + +If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper +pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam +lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double +seaming allowance. + +.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg + :align: center + +If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the +best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the +rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center +and baste them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance +a – g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of +fabric along the fold. + +.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg + :align: center + +After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you +will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to +complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this +won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough +for it not to be a problem. + +.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg + :align: center + +If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong +side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides +of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above +schematic. + +.. figure:: 0102-cutting_tongue.jpg + :align: center + + The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when + cutting the shoulder piece. + +Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each +collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue. + +If your fabric requires it, cut two or four cuff pieces also in +interfacing, and one or two collar pieces if not using a simple collar +band. + +Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small +reinforcement patches. + +Collar and Cuffs +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sew_collar.jpg + :align: center + +Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides +and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_collar.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +.. note:: + + If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its + construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or + two layers of interfacing. + +.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg + :align: center + +Put two cuff pieces right sides together (with the optional interfacing +on top), backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the +trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: 0205-tongue.jpg + :align: center + +Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing +backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the +corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again. +Make a buttonhole in the tongue. + +Front +^^^^^ + +Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front. + +.. figure:: 0301-folded_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice +towards the front. + +.. note:: + + This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket, + and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct + right or wrong side. + + If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you + can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in + place instead of applique stitching it. + +Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing +outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half +the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket +(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other). Overlap the +pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams. + +Press everything. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line. + + +.. figure:: 0303-sewn_plackets.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden +below the placket itself. Press back the placket flat. + +On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from +each edge. + +Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom +horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers. + +.. figure:: 0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg + :align: center + +Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides +together, and backstitch it. + +Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side. + +.. figure:: 0305-placket_and_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Put the left placket on top of the right placket and baste it in place. +Pull the gathering threads to the same length, pinning the excess thread +from the wrong side, strike the gathers to make them neater. + +.. figure:: 0306-front_band_applique.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0307-front_band_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the band with the tongue on top of the right side so that it covers +the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch +the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and +sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it. + +.. figure:: 0308-back_band_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to +the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so +that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased. + +.. figure:: 0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Place two shoulder piece on top of each other, backstitch the center +seam and press open. Repeat with the two other shoulder pieces. + +.. figure:: 0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg + :align: center + +Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back, +then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on +the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and +remove the collar from the assembly. + +.. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides +together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two +shoulders. Press up. + +.. note:: + + This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original + instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back + first. + + This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it + easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit. + +Back +^^^^ + +Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top +edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides. + +.. figure:: 0401-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the +shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together +at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part +should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side +for the armhole. Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case +you want to use this pattern again. + +.. figure:: 0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg + :align: center + +Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece, +backstitch the ungathered sides, press all allowances towards the +shoulder piece. +Pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder +piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_inner_shoulder_piece.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the +back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one. + +.. figure:: 0404-pinned_collar.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides +together, backstitch one side of the collar band. + +.. tip: + + While sewing the collar, take special care to cover all raw edges + where the shoulder piece attaches to the front: after pinning the + collar band in place it's probably better to either baste it by hand + and then machine sew it, or sew it directly by hand. + +Press the allowances towards the collar band, fold down and press the +remaining edge of the collar and hemstitch it into place to cover all +raw edges. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-allowances_alignment.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning +the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0502-gusset_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the +gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and +hemstitch it to the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0503-sleeve_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one +seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch + +.. figure:: 0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg + :align: center + +Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between +the gusset and the sleeve, fold the double allowance down to cover the +raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other +sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the +opposite direction). + +.. figure:: 0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the back of the sleeve +(i.e. closest to the hemstitched side), fold down the edges twice and +hem stitch them down. + +.. figure:: 0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg + :align: center + +From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the +diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to +the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit +edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a +hemstitch on the inside. + + +.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff.jpg + :align: center + + +Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather +it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the +edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching +each gather with a stitch. + +.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff_wrong_side.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the wrong side, again catching +each gather. + +.. insert figure: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg + +Add a button to the smaller side of the cuff and a corresponding +buttonhole to the larger part. + +Assembly of the body +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-aligning_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, align the back and front so that the back is 8–10 +cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and mark a +point 8–10 cm from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam +will end. + +.. insert figure: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg + +.. figure:: 0603-armscye_measurement.jpg + :align: center + +Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4 +cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end +of the side seam. + +Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back +is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double +allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch. + +Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice, +mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side +seam, and hemstitch. + +.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes: + +Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a +reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. + + + +Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the +sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, +starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the +excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. + +Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. + +When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper +and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front +and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern. + +Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end, +save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another +shirt in this size. + +.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg + :align: center + +Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on +both sides of the shirt. + +Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the +points just marked. + +.. tip:: + + Even when doing straight seams by machine, it is probably easier and + quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and + sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance. + +Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the +edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on +the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the +ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam +allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder +piece, catching each gather. + +Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of +fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it +towards the body. + +.. note:: + + Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original + instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming + it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you + want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and + before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing, + backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge, + press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the + straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the + previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part + catching each gather with a stitch. + +From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on +the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the +bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the +outside and a hemstitch on the inside. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more +button and buttonholes on the front placket. + +Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the +half dozen :) diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt.vit b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92321c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt.vit @@ -0,0 +1,27 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f21adb7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg @@ -0,0 +1,85 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7006673 --- /dev/null +++ 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b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0613-triangle_patch.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..83e4950 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 93e7896..5610e00 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -520,7 +520,8 @@ each gather with a stitch. Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the wrong side, again catching each gather. -.. insert figure: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg +.. figure:: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center Add a button to the smaller side of the cuff and a corresponding buttonhole to the larger part. @@ -532,11 +533,12 @@ Assembly of the body :align: center Right sides together, align the back and front so that the back is 8–10 -cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and mark a -point 8–10 cm from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam -will end. +cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and the +back is one sewing allowance from the front and mark a point 8–10 cm +from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam will end. -.. insert figure: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg +.. figure:: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg + :align: center .. figure:: 0603-armscye_measurement.jpg :align: center @@ -545,9 +547,11 @@ Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4 cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end of the side seam. -Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back -is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double -allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch. +Backstitch the side seams between the points just marked. Fold the +double allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 0605-hem.jpg + :align: center Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice, mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side @@ -555,10 +559,14 @@ seam, and hemstitch. .. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes: +.. figure:: 0606-marking_armscye.jpg + :align: center + Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. - +.. figure:: 0607-basted_sleeve.jpg + :align: center Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, @@ -567,9 +575,14 @@ excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. -When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper -and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front -and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern. +.. figure:: 0608-tracing_seam_on_paper.jpg + :align: center + +When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper, +aligning the corner and sides, and use a pin or another pointed +implement to prick the paper following the seam line where you basted +for both the front and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and +cut the pattern. Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end, save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another @@ -581,6 +594,9 @@ shirt in this size. Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on both sides of the shirt. +.. figure:: 0609-sleeve_gathering_thread.jpg + :align: center + Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the points just marked. @@ -590,12 +606,23 @@ points just marked. quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance. +.. figure:: 0610-sewing_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on -the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the -ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam -allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder -piece, catching each gather. +the body. + +.. figure:: 0611-sewing_gathered_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the ungathered part of +the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam allowance and applique +stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder piece, catching each +gather. + +.. figure:: 0612-felling_sleeve_seam.jpg + :align: center Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it @@ -614,6 +641,9 @@ towards the body. previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part catching each gather with a stitch. +.. figure:: 0613-triangle_patch.jpg + :align: center + From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the @@ -622,6 +652,9 @@ outside and a hemstitch on the inside. Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more button and buttonholes on the front placket. -- cgit v1.2.3 From 855dd624d1efb1d05e09c8673bebce2cb85565be Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2022 15:12:17 +0200 Subject: Improved pattern description --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 16 ++++++++++++ .../shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 29 +++++++++++++--------- 2 files changed, 33 insertions(+), 12 deletions(-) (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt') diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index a4b894c..aa91a2e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -44,3 +44,19 @@ year = {1892}, url = "https://archive.org/details/homedressmakingc00myer", } + +@Book{1879:beeton + author = {Beeton}, + title = {Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information}, + publisher = {London ; New York : Ward, Lock & Co., Warwick House, Salisbury Square, E.C.}, + year = {1979}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/", +} + +@Book{1840:godey + author = {Godey}, + title = {Godey's lady's book}, + publisher = {L.A. Godey}, + year = {1840}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/godeysladysboo00phil", +} diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 5610e00..d7b7df1 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -4,10 +4,21 @@ .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg :align: center -A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's -treasury of domestic information -`_ -from around 1880. +A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's +treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. + +This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from +rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the +more structured shirts of the 20th century. + +This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've +seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use +a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but +you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front +opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. + +The same pattern can also be used for an early ladies' Garibaldi Shirt +:cite:`1840:godey` (pag 29). While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either), @@ -18,12 +29,6 @@ Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece. -This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've -seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use -a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but -you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front -opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. - I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the @@ -212,7 +217,7 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. :align: center If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper -pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam +pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double seaming allowance. @@ -557,7 +562,7 @@ Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice, mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side seam, and hemstitch. -.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes: +.. _1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes: .. figure:: 0606-marking_armscye.jpg :align: center -- cgit v1.2.3 From c4d12451b875b1a3c6ddcc3310db627ae34f3f19 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2022 16:06:40 +0200 Subject: Finished item pictures --- .../shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_back.jpg | Bin 0 -> 831223 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 957970 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 25 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_back.jpg | Bin 0 -> 954164 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1024114 bytes source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst | 2 +- 6 files changed, 26 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_back.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_front.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_back.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_front.jpg (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt') diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_back.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df1090a Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_back.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0492f2 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/full_shirt_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index d7b7df1..d9a202c 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -1,6 +1,10 @@ 1880s Shirt =========== +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg :align: center @@ -665,3 +669,24 @@ button and buttonholes on the front placket. Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the half dozen :) + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: shirt_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: shirt_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: full_shirt_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: ../../../historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of the shirt, in powder blue cotton (with too small + cuffs and misplaced buttons). diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_back.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..32d2361 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_back.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..020dd47 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/shirt_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst index c5d1c11..8f77417 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,5 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: - 1880_shirt/index + 1880s_shirt/index -- cgit v1.2.3 From aca03bbf83ba3050d8582e879aabf9bcff5ada0b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2022 16:08:53 +0200 Subject: Fix typo --- .../historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 2 +- .../skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg | Bin 1225481 -> 0 bytes .../skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1225481 bytes .../skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst | 2 +- 4 files changed, 2 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-) delete mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt') diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index d9a202c..ffe947b 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -685,7 +685,7 @@ Gallery .. figure:: full_shirt_back.jpg :align: center -.. figure:: ../../../historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg +.. figure:: ../../../historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg :align: center The first version of the shirt, in powder blue cotton (with too small diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index f6b158b..0000000 Binary files a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6b158b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index faa4cb2..0ec412f 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ 1892 Foundation Skirt ===================== -.. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg +.. figure:: full_skirt_front.jpg :align: center A foundation skirt based on the instructions on :cite:`1892:cutters`, -- cgit v1.2.3 From 8297252ae00ec79e7c3dc77f70df7c26ff106916 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2022 16:15:42 +0200 Subject: Move picture above ToC --- source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 6 +++--- 1 file changed, 3 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-) (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt') diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index ffe947b..b594f29 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -1,13 +1,13 @@ 1880s Shirt =========== +.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg + :align: center + .. only:: html .. contents:: -.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg - :align: center - A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. -- cgit v1.2.3