From c0872e346ce4823941db2a2510571a09508e03d4 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2022 08:52:38 +0200
Subject: Pattern fixes

---
 .../shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val               | 58 +++++++++++-----------
 .../shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst                    | 23 +++++----
 2 files changed, 41 insertions(+), 40 deletions(-)

(limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt')

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
index e430c21..d66589b 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
@@ -36,7 +36,7 @@ treasury…</company>
         <increment formula="3" name="#armhole_width_front"/>
         <increment formula="9" name="#cuff_length"/>
         <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - #cuff_length / 2" name="#sleeve_length"/>
-        <increment formula="45" name="#sleeve_width"/>
+        <increment description="If using fabric for this is narrower than 45 cm, check that it is enough for your arms." formula="#shirt_width / 2" name="#sleeve_width"/>
         <increment formula="30" name="#sleeve_wrist_circumference"/>
         <increment formula="6" name="#sleeve_slit"/>
         <increment formula="2" name="#collar_band_height"/>
@@ -95,7 +95,7 @@ treasury…</company>
             <point angle="90" basePoint="77" id="78" length="neck_circ * 0.33" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="180" color="black" id="79" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="78" point4="76" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <arc aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" center="78" color="cornflowerblue" id="80" penStyle="hair" radius="shoulder_length" type="simple"/>
-            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="99" length="#sleeve_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="99" length="#sleeve_length + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="100" length="#sleeve_width" lineColor="black" mx="-3.34636" my="-2.01042" name="A26" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="100" id="101" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A27" secondPoint="99" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="1" id="102" length="(#sleeve_width - #sleeve_wrist_circumference) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.10226" my="-2.05174" name="A28" secondPoint="100" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -323,14 +323,14 @@ treasury…</company>
             </path>
         </modeling>
         <details>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" inLayout="false" mx="-0.177998" my="-0.707165" name="back" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" inLayout="false" mx="-0.177998" my="-0.707165" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{4b778d96-ec76-496d-a80e-97f40cf0ab78}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="B" mx="1757.58" my="895.829" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1311.57" my="889.071" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="66" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="65" visible="true"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="940.507" my="899.237" rotation="0" visible="true" width="20"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="66" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="65" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -346,14 +346,14 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <record>66</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="56" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="56" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{39cce96f-3477-4eea-b69e-952a64db3a38}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="-1640.87" my="1517.54" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-2080.12" my="1524.3" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="68" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="67" visible="true"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-2461.35" my="1509.05" rotation="0" visible="true" width="20"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="68" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="67" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node before="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="52" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node after="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="53" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -372,21 +372,21 @@ treasury…</company>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="92" mx="0.0834109" my="0.0834109" name="shoulder_piece" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b5420466-2b3d-4cbf-9400-acc1f9086324}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
-                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="415.665" my="-209.225" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="446.163" my="-209.225" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="104.665" my="-209.78" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="94.4989" my="-204.697" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
                 <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="220" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="219" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="225" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="226" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node idObject="89" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node after="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="228" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node before="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="227" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="227" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
                 <pins>
                     <record>219</record>
@@ -399,7 +399,7 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1286.23" my="-977.485" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1382.81" my="-977.485" rotation="0" visible="true" width="20"/>
                 <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="106" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -413,14 +413,14 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <record path="233"/>
                 </iPaths>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="131" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
-                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="E" mx="-377.325" my="-1499.09" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="131" mx="0" my="0" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e6f4e30b-0944-4c0f-b601-033bf1b0a0b5}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="E" mx="-430.899" my="-2942.05" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-752.478" my="-1489.63" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="135" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="134" visible="true"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="-847.329" my="-2942.05" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="135" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="134" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="127" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="128" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -432,14 +432,14 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <record>135</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="149" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="collar_band" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="149" mx="0" my="0" name="collar_band" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{377a38c3-dcad-4140-8dd5-75485ede2c64}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1.5" letter="F" mx="534.093" my="-1293.43" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="3">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%%wOnFold%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="342.26" my="-1293.43" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="151" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="150" visible="true"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="342.26" my="-1293.43" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="151" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="150" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node before="0" idObject="143" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="144" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -453,14 +453,14 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <record>151</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="169" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="curved_collar_band" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="169" mx="0" my="0" name="curved_collar_band" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{4bfdae47-da70-4841-8dac-7acfc499fe8d}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1.5" letter="G" mx="514.939" my="-1369.5" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="3">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="329.869" my="-1367.72" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="171" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="170" visible="true"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="329.869" my="-1367.72" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="171" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="170" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="162" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
@@ -476,13 +476,13 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <record>171</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="179" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="front_band" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
-                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="H" mx="237.311" my="-1701" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="179" mx="0" my="0" name="front_band" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{58720b46-eaf7-44fa-aceb-9dd45a436437}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="H" mx="332.162" my="-3327.47" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="45.0068" my="-1701" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="60.0968" my="-3323.16" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
                 <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="175" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -491,15 +491,15 @@ treasury…</company>
                     <node idObject="178" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="202" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="tongue" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
-                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="I" mx="54.08" my="-1800.3" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="1.2">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="202" mx="0" my="0" name="tongue" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{1b36418a-c278-4400-9c7c-c80a413628f9}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="I" mx="56.2357" my="-3383.66" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="1.2">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
                 <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
                 <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
                 <nodes>
-                    <node idObject="193" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node angle="1" idObject="193" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="194" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="196" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 6b81271..da03f2c 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -101,7 +101,8 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
    a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back;
 ``shirt_width``
    the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the
-   width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical);
+   width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical),
+   and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine;
 ``front_slit_length``
    the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily
    be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement
@@ -203,9 +204,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
 
 If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
 pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam
-lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with single (for
-the original felled seam) or double (for french seaming) seaming
-allowance.
+lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
+seaming allowance.
 
 .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
    :align: center
@@ -467,13 +467,14 @@ towards the body.
 
    Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original
    instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming
-   it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (this is
-   already marked in the valentina pattern), put the sleeve in with
-   wrong sides facing, backstitch at a bit less than the sewing
-   allowance from the edge, press; turn the sleeve inside out, right
-   sides facing, backstitch the straight part at a bit more than the
-   sewing allowance from the previous seam, turn it right side out and
-   hemstitch the gathered part catching each gather with a stitch.
+   it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you
+   want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and
+   before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing,
+   backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge,
+   press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the
+   straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the
+   previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part
+   catching each gather with a stitch.
 
 From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on
 the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the
-- 
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