From 1a4529bf061319beee97f51c20a75b35f98510b2 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2022 21:41:09 +0100 Subject: More parts of the shirt pattern --- .../shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 79 ++++++++++++++++++++-- 1 file changed, 75 insertions(+), 4 deletions(-) (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst') diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index b40090b..53e8245 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -9,7 +9,21 @@ treasury of domestic information `_ from 1880. - +This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've +seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use +a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but +you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front +opening and especially collar and cuffs for earch era. + +I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would +be hand sewn in the home, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home +were most definitely a thing. + +If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine +everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything +else, or to sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every +time the instructions say to hemstitch something; buttonholes should +probably still be done by hand, however. Materials --------- @@ -100,6 +114,12 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible: length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to be; +``sleeve_width`` + the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this + is often half the ``shirt_width``; +``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` + the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before + gathering it into the cuff; ``sewing_allowance`` the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be @@ -117,12 +137,63 @@ those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements from the Draw mode as follows: back: - width: A – A2, height: A – A1; + a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as + ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1); front: - width: A – A2, height: A — A8; + a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as + ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8); sleeves: - ; + the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of + ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of + ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds + to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the + other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a + rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as + ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained + below. Instructions ------------ +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. + +.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg + :align: center + +If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the +best way to cut it is as described on the book fold the rectangle in +such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center and bast +them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a – g and +h – g is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of fabric +along the fold. + +.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg + :align: center + +After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you +will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to +complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this +won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough +for it not to be a problem. + +Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each +collar piece and four of each cuff piece. + +Front +^^^^^ + +Back +^^^^ + +Assembly of the body +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + -- cgit v1.2.3