From 9cf683beb4f5fa4b4053fb3800288908dbdb30c3 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2024 09:54:54 +0100 Subject: Start drafting basic womanswear jeans --- .../aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val | 270 ++++++++++++++++++++ .../drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst | 16 ++ .../trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val | 271 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst | 101 ++++++++ source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst | 1 + 5 files changed, 659 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear') diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ea632e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,270 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + + + Basic Jeans + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 43 + 44 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 91 + 92 + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst index 2cdd67a..f9262dd 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst @@ -61,6 +61,18 @@ to take these measurements on somebody. Blocks ------ +.. _aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans: + +Close fitting trouser/jeans block +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 54, 55. + +* :download:`close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val` + + +.. _aldrich_block_basic_tee_shirt: + Basic tee shirt ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -68,6 +80,8 @@ Page 186, 187. * :download:`basic_tee_shirt_block.val` +.. _aldrich_block_easy_fitting_tee_shirt: + Easy fitting tee shirt ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -75,6 +89,8 @@ Page 186, 187. * :download:`easy_fitting_tee_shirt_block.val` +.. _aldrich_block_tracksuit_fleece_jacket: + Tracksuit / fleece jacket block ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..47c8028 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val @@ -0,0 +1,271 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + + + Basic Jeans + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 43 + 44 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 91 + 92 + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1aa4e7d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,101 @@ +Basic Jeans +=========== + +.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg + :align: center + +These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear +:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`, +drafted + +The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can +be adjusted to go to the natural waist. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy, + heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant + 2nd layer fabric; +* 50 cm pocket fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern; +* a suitable button; +* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic; +* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as + it won’t show). + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``highhip_circ`` (G08) + circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to + sit; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the hips; +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + vertical distance from Waist to Hip; +``rise_length_side`` (N08) + vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level; +``height_waist_back`` (A23) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, + going over the buttocks; + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`basic_jeans.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following +increments: + +``waistband_depth`` + height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm; +``waist_position`` + the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans: + the drafting system suggested 5 cm; +``waist_circ`` + the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to + ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm; +``jeans_bottom_width`` + width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a + straight cut on average sizes; +``front_curve_distance`` + 3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise; +``back_curve_distance`` + 4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise; +``crutch_ease`` + 5 or 6 cm; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and +A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs. + +Instructions +------------ + +See the instructions for the +Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index` + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst index ffb0630..eec09f8 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,6 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + basic_jeans/index leggings_shorts/index -- cgit v1.2.3