From 430293826cf0b703150690c4f67a6397fa634963 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 09:46:07 +0100 Subject: Fitting jersey top: new pattern --- source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg | Bin 0 -> 652468 bytes .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg | Bin 0 -> 980070 bytes .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1256176 bytes .../fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg | Bin 0 -> 758210 bytes .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg | Bin 0 -> 980259 bytes .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 777511 bytes .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg | Bin 0 -> 722965 bytes .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val | 255 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst | 191 +++++++++++++++ .../tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg | Bin 0 -> 745572 bytes source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst | 10 + 12 files 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source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear') diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 0ed5993..34ee605 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + tops/index trousers/index underwear/index drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ef686d Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg new file mode 100644 index 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b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val @@ -0,0 +1,255 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + Fitting jersey top, flat cutting. + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition. + + Fitting Jersey Top + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 103 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 99 + 101 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..13fced5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +Fitting jersey top +================== + +.. figure:: top.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple, figure-hugging top with a round neck and a choice of +long or short sleeves, designed for knit fabric. + +Beside being a good, if somewhat boring, wardrobe staple, this pattern +is also suitable for sports- and technical-wear: try it in lightweight +merino jersey as a thermal 1st layer, or in wicking jersey for something +like a cycling shirt. + +In these cases, you may also want to make a pair of matching +:doc:`../../trousers/leggings_shorts/index`, and if you have fabric +leftovers you can add a matching +:doc:`../../trousers/underwear/camisole/index`. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1.5 m of fabric with a high stretch for a long sleeved top, 1 m + for short sleeves. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm cotton tape, 1 – 1.5 cm wide; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G.04) + circumference around the bust. +``waist_circ`` (G.07) + circumference of the waist. +``hip_circ`` (G.09) + circumference of the hips. +``across_back_b`` (I.08) + width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G.02) + circumference at the base of the neck. +``arm_wrist_circ`` (L.15) + circumference of the wrist. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H.19) + length from the nape of the neck to the waist, on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + depth of the armscye. +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L.01) + from the tip of the shoulder to the bent elbow to the wrist. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + distance from the waist to the hip, measured on the side. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`fitting_jersey_top.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following +increments that need to be set; the defaults are reasonable: + +``finished_length`` + measured from the nape of the neck, on the back; +``short_sleeve_length`` + desired length of the short sleeve; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back on the fold; to cut the sleeves it may be +convenient to trace the pattern on the fold of a piece of paper and use +that to cut two sleeves flat. + +Also cut a strip about 4 cm wide and as long as the neck opening plus 2 +cm on the cross-grain or the direction where the fabric has more give. + +.. figure:: 0101-cutting_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Use the pattern for the front to cut the right length of tape for the +shoulders. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + All seams except for the shoulders are sewn with a french seam, using + a narrow zig-zag stitch or another elastic stitch, if available on + the machine used. + + For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm + allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one + side. + + +.. figure:: 0201-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seams: right sides together, put the front over the +back and add the tape so that it's mostly over the allowances but will +get just caught by the seam. Sew with a *straight* stitch. + +.. figure:: 0202-shoulder_flat.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances and the tape towards the back, trim the allowances +so that they are shorter than the tape, and topstitch with a straight +stitch at 8 mm from the first seam, enclosing the raw edges under the +tape. + +.. figure:: 0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg + :align: center + +Put the band over the neck opening, right sides together and starting in +the center back with the raw edge folded back once, sew with a narrow +zig-zag, pulling the fabric a bit to preserve the elasticity in the seam. + +Check that the head can still pass through the neckline; if it doesn't +redo the seam pulling the fabric a bit more (or enlarge the neckline a +bit). + +Press the band and allowances up, fold the band to cover all raw edges +and sew it down by hand with a herringbone stitch. + +Check again that the head passes through. + +.. note:: alternatively, you can fold the allowance down once towards + ther inside and stitch in the ditch by machine from the right side, + remembering to use an elastic stitch. + +.. tip:: + Finishing the neck at this stage will keep it stable, avoiding the + need for stay stitching it; after the first seam you can however + postpone the hand stitching until the end. + +.. figure:: 0205-sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the sleeves to the back and front with a french seam, aligning the +center of the sleeve with the shoulder seams. +Press the seam towards the body. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side and sleeve seams with a french seam. Press the seam towards +the back. + +.. figure:: 0207-hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hem of the shirt up towards the inside 2 cm, then again, and +topstitch from the front with an elastic stitch such as a 3-step zig zag +or a twin needle. + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +Variants +-------- + +Simpler hems and neckline +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +If making this as 1st layer, you can make even simpler hems and neckline +finish by cutting them with just 1 cm allowance, folding it towards the +wrong side and top stitching with a 3-step zig-zag. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3758261 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..01c3afa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +***************** + Tops and Shirts +***************** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + fitting_jersey_top/index + -- cgit v1.2.3