From bcec4c15ce26bcc33efcc2cd8bc5f9f41038f55e Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2022 08:01:47 +0200 Subject: Fix name of generic aldrich measurements --- source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit | 2 +- 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+), 1 deletion(-) (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear') diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit index 337f953..512f624 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit @@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ cm 42 - EoV + Size 14 1800-01-01 female -- cgit v1.2.3 From 5a55066a98ecb949e8353ac3073eb076092cf18f Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2022 18:20:40 +0200 Subject: Start working on a pattern for leggings --- source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst | 10 ++ .../trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst | 82 +++++++++++ .../trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val | 153 +++++++++++++++++++++ 4 files changed, 246 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear') diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 1dd5d41..437fa2e 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -9,4 +9,5 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + trousers/index measurements/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..190e7b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********** + Trousers +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + leggins_shorts/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a774cf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,82 @@ +Leggings / Shorts +================= + +.. figure:: leggings.jpg + :align: center + + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* 2 cm wide elastic, enough to go around the waist; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich` + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``rise_length_side`` (N08) + vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level. +``height_waist_back`` (A23) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, + going over the buttocks; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the hips. +``leg_ankle_high_circ `` (M08) + ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is + the deepest. + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`leggings.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following +increments that need to be set: + +``front_curve_distance`` + 2.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 2.5 cm otherwise; +``back_curve_distance`` + 3.75 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4 cm otherwise; +``back_raise`` + how much the back should be higher than the front; 3 cm for people + who are less curvy, 5 cm is good for moderately curvy people; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the two legs on folded fabric. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + All seams are sewn with a french seam: wrong sides facing sew with a + 8 mm allowance + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6e6377 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val @@ -0,0 +1,153 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Based on the close fitting leggings block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition. + + Leggings + + + + + + + + + + + ../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 68 + 69 + + +
+ + + -- cgit v1.2.3 From ffa18e92d15e55b36888151ed0997b4095a86d07 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2022 18:08:45 +0200 Subject: seams --- .../trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst | 17 ++++++++++++++--- 1 file changed, 14 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-) (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear') diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst index 4a774cf..fc689c4 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -11,7 +11,8 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch. +* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch for full-length leggins, about + 1 m for shorts. Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -74,8 +75,18 @@ Sewing ^^^^^^ .. note:: - All seams are sewn with a french seam: wrong sides facing sew with a - 8 mm allowance + All seams are sewn with a french seam, using a narrow zig-zag + stitch. + + For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm + allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one + side. + + Alternatively, they can be sewn with a flat felled seam on the + *right* side of the garment, again with a narrow zig-zag stitch: + wrong sides facing sew with a 2 cm allowance, trim one of the + allowances down to 8 mm, fold the other allowance over it to cover + all raw edges and topstitch 2 mm from the folded edge. Gallery ------- -- cgit v1.2.3 From 8ff148f73762a27cc13b1bd0c6e471be1dbd65dd Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2022 16:45:56 +0200 Subject: Leggings: finished pattern --- .../measurements/aldrich/index.rst | 4 +- source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst | 2 +- .../trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1604284 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1433995 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1353143 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1431401 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1443015 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst | 46 +++++++++++-- .../trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val | 76 +++++++-------------- 9 files changed, 70 insertions(+), 58 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear') diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst index a1258a9..3fc9e55 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ -Aldrich -======= +Aldrich Drafting System +======================= The file :download:`aldrich.vit` includes the measurements used by the patterns based on blocks from `Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst index 190e7b9..ffb0630 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,5 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: - leggins_shorts/index + leggings_shorts/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f56f7a1 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f0780d Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..67183ca Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..72c9df9 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..04f444c Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst index fc689c4..531f9d1 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -1,9 +1,10 @@ Leggings / Shorts ================= -.. figure:: leggings.jpg +.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg :align: center +These are simple leggings with an elastic waist. Materials --------- @@ -26,7 +27,7 @@ Pattern Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ -This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich` +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. You need to take the following measurements: @@ -37,12 +38,12 @@ You need to take the following measurements: going over the buttocks; ``hip_circ`` (G09) circumference of the hips. -``leg_ankle_high_circ `` (M08) +``leg_ankle_high_circ`` (M08) ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is the deepest. -the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file -and has the list of needed measurements. +the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern ^^^^^^^ @@ -63,6 +64,11 @@ increments that need to be set: ``sewing_allowance`` enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. +If you want to make shorts rather than full leggins, measure from the +waist down the side the desired length, copy that measurement on the +pattern on the grain indicator line, add 2 cm for the hem and fold back +the pattern perpendicularly to the grain line. + Instructions ------------ @@ -88,6 +94,36 @@ Sewing allowances down to 8 mm, fold the other allowance over it to cover all raw edges and topstitch 2 mm from the folded edge. +.. figure:: 01-inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the legs and sew the inseam. + +.. figure:: 03-crotch_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Turn one leg inside out; place them one inside the other and sew the +crotch seam. + +.. figure:: 05-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the legs towards the inside by 2 cm, sew from the right side with a +triple zig-zag or another decorative *elastic* stitch. + +.. figure:: 07-pinned_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Cut enough elastic to go confortably while a little taut around the +waist, find the half and quarter points and pin them to the +corresponding points on the waist, folding down the edge to cover it. + +.. figure:: 09-sewn_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Sew from the right side with the same stitch used for the hem, while +keeping the elastic taut. + Gallery ------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val index d6e6377..a4271a7 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val @@ -66,51 +66,27 @@ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
@@ -122,19 +98,19 @@ - + - + - + - - + + -- cgit v1.2.3