From 9cf683beb4f5fa4b4053fb3800288908dbdb30c3 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2024 09:54:54 +0100
Subject: Start drafting basic womanswear jeans

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+Basic Jeans
+===========
+
+.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear
+:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`,
+drafted 
+
+The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can
+be adjusted to go to the natural waist.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
+  heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
+  2nd layer fabric;
+* 50 cm pocket fabric.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
+* a suitable button;
+* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
+* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
+  it won’t show).
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``highhip_circ`` (G08)
+   circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to
+   sit;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   circumference of the hips;
+``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
+   vertical distance from Waist to Hip;
+``rise_length_side`` (N08)
+   vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level;
+``height_waist_back`` (A23)
+   height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
+   going over the buttocks;
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`basic_jeans.val`.
+
+In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following
+increments:
+
+``waistband_depth``
+   height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm;
+``waist_position``
+   the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans:
+   the drafting system suggested 5 cm;
+``waist_circ``
+   the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to
+   ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm;
+``jeans_bottom_width``
+   width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a
+   straight cut on average sizes;
+``front_curve_distance``
+   3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise;
+``back_curve_distance``
+   4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise;
+``crutch_ease``
+   5 or 6 cm;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
+
+After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and
+A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+See the instructions for the
+Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
-- 
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