From a2675f91e2724a3018ec3a7ab2fb525e292a9430 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2022 20:04:54 +0200 Subject: Use sphinxcontrib-bibtex to manage the bibliography --- source/bibliography/drafting.bib | 8 ++++++++ source/bibliography/index.rst | 16 ++++++++++++++++ source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 ++++++++ 3 files changed, 32 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/bibliography/drafting.bib create mode 100644 source/bibliography/index.rst create mode 100644 source/bibliography/misc.bib (limited to 'source/bibliography') diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed73732 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +@Book{1892:cutters + author = {Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.)}, + title = {The cutters’ practical guide to the cutting of ladies’ garments}, + publisher = {London, J. Williamson}, + year = {1892}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/", + note = "Drafting manual." +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/index.rst b/source/bibliography/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cafdc6f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +############## + Bibliography +############## + +Drafting Manuals +================ + +.. bibliography:: drafting.bib + :all: + +Miscellaneous +============= + +.. bibliography:: misc.bib + :all: + diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1150537 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +@Book{1898:household + author = {Bertha Banner}, + title = {Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking}, + publisher = {Longmans, Green, and co.}, + year = {1898}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/householdsewing00banngoog", + note = "" +} -- cgit v1.2.3 From 23c306103e7f79f5f2bcd074e881b6d590ac73e7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2022 20:14:49 +0200 Subject: More drafting manuals for the bibliography --- source/bibliography/drafting.bib | 18 +++++++++++++++++- 1 file changed, 17 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) (limited to 'source/bibliography') diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib index ed73732..4d09b45 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -4,5 +4,21 @@ publisher = {London, J. Williamson}, year = {1892}, url = "https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/", - note = "Drafting manual." + note = "", +} + +@Book{1909:american + author = {Merwin, Pearl}, + title = {The American system of dressmaking}, + publisher = {Kansas City, Mo., The American College of Dressmaking}, + year = {1909}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw", +} + +@Book{1897:superlative + author = {Stone, Charles John.}, + title = {Superlative system of cutting ladies' garments}, + publisher = {Chicago, The C. J. Stone co. cutting school}, + year = {1897}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/superlativesyste00ston", } -- cgit v1.2.3 From 7150df49b8e1be7ba46acf2eedd0476273e60ce7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2022 21:09:00 +0200 Subject: More sewing manuals --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 14 ++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 14 insertions(+) (limited to 'source/bibliography') diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 1150537..26a36fd 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -6,3 +6,17 @@ url = "https://archive.org/details/householdsewing00banngoog", note = "" } +@Book{1840:workwoman + author = {Workwoman}, + title = {The workwoman's guide, containing instructions in cutting out and completing articles of wearing}, + publisher = {}, + year = {1840}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog", +} +@Book{1896:elements + author = {Davis, Jeanette E}, + title = {The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker : being also a handbook for the use of students and for candidates preparing for the examinations in dressmaking under the City and Guilds of London Institute}, + publisher = {}, + year = {1896}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/krl00001156", +} -- cgit v1.2.3 From bcf38f3275e2b414a01ea380450d8b85e6a29f73 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2022 23:24:11 +0200 Subject: A Pair of Pockets, initial instructions. --- source/accessories/bags/index.rst | 1 + source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst | 145 ++++++++++++ .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1251945 bytes .../pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1487794 bytes .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf | Bin 0 -> 339303 bytes .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg | 256 +++++++++++++++++++++ source/bibliography/index.rst | 5 + source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 + source/bibliography/web.bib | 8 + source/conf.py | 1 + 10 files changed, 424 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg create mode 100644 source/bibliography/web.bib (limited to 'source/bibliography') diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst index c8185a8..f85f7fa 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,4 @@ drawstring_backpack/index modular_backpack_base/index + pair_of_pockets/index diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0630697 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Pair of Pockets +=============== + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg + :align: center + +In the 18th and parts of the 19th century, pockets for women were an +accessory not attached to any garment, but tied around the waist and +worn under the skirt (the more modest and privacy-respecting way) or on +top of it (for convenience, usually done just by the working classes). + +Beside being significantly bigger than what is usually found in modern +womenswear clothing (but not necessarily the ones found in the +ones from the 19th century), they have the advantage of not letting the +weight of the contents hang from the fabric of a garment, and thus they +are a good match to ligtweight skirts or ones made from knit fabric. + +Or, since it's the 2020s and there is no sense of decency anymore :D one +can wear them on top of a pair of jeans, visible to anybody. + +Historical pockets were quite diverse: a good overview of their history +is in :cite:`2019:pocket` (or a very short version in +:cite:`2021:vampockets`), and an internet search will get you lots of +historical examples to reproduce or take inspiration from, as well as +people who made their own pockets and publish instructions, some of +which are listed in the :ref:`pockets_see_also` section. + +This is just one way to make a pair of pockets which works and is easy +enough to do; if you are so inclined the rabbit hole of historical +construction methods can offer you many hours of research and making. + +I sew most of my pockets by hand, as it is a quick and easy project, +but machine sewing is also an option, especially for more modern +variants. To sew by machine, lockstitch where the instructions say to +backstitch, and topstitch instead of hem/applique-stitching. + +Materials +--------- + +* Fabric: about 40 cm of strong cotton or linen; +* optional, about 40 cm of dense cotton or linen for a lining; +* 2.4 m edge binding (bias or straight); +* 1.5 m tape; +* sewing thread. + +This is of course a great way to use scraps and leftovers, and if you +don't have enough fabric to make a pair there are plenty of historical +examples of single pockets mounted on a tape of their own. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for these pockets is a vaguely pear shaped bag with a slit +in the top half of the front, often more than 40 cm deep. If you're not +reproducing an existing pocket you may want to download my own pattern, +which has the width and height of a B4 sheet and is on the smaller end +of typical historical sizes: + +:download:`pockets_B4.svg` + SVG source, can be scaled to taste; +:download:`pockets_B4-A4.pdf` + PDF, tiled on two A4 sheet; + +Instructions +------------ + +If you want to make embroidered pockets it's easiest to do on the fabric +before cutting it: mark the outline and slit of the pocket and embroider +leaving a clear space around those markings of half the width of your +binding. + +Cut the pattern four times in your fabric. If you need to protect the +back of the fabric (e.g. because it is embroidered and the contents may +catch on it) also cut the pattern four times in lining. + +If using a lining, lay it on the wrong side of each panel, baste it and +from now on treat as one. + +Cut the slit on two of the panels, bind both sides. + +If your binding has raw edges, align one raw edge of the binding to the +raw edge of the slit, right sides together, backstitch on the fold of +the binding, press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. + +If your binding is a tape with finished edges, fold it in half, pin it +over the raw edge of the slit, applique stitch on the right side and +then hemstitch the wrong side. + +Cut four small patches from the scraps of fabric, fold their edges +towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on both sides +to reinforce the weak point, applique stitching to the rigth side and +hemstitching to the wrong. + +Put one panel with a slit on top of a panel with no slit, wrong sides +together, backstitch all around it at 5 mm from the edge. + +Bind the side and bottom edges using the same tecnique used for the +slit. + +Cut a piece of tape long enough to go around the waist and be tied, pin +the top edge of the two pockets on top of it so that they are +symmetrical and lie at the right position for the slits in your skirts. + +.. tip:: + If you're making more than one pair of pockets, put them at different + distances from the front, so that you can choose the ones that fit + better with the line of each skirt you're wearing. + +Hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom edge of the tape. + +Put another piece of tape on top of just the front of each pocket, +folding down the raw edges, applique stitch it to the pocket and to the +tape at the sides; whipstitch the two tapes at the top, enclosing the +raw edge of the pocket. + +Fold down the ends of the long tape, hemstitch them down to finish even +these raw edges. + +Your pair of pockets is done! + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg + :align: center + +.. _pockets_see_also: + +See Also +-------- + +In the 2020s, pockets are IN, at least in the online sewing community: +this is a small selection of people who made their own pockets. + +* `Make your own Pocket (Victoria and Albert Museum) + `_ +* `Pair of pockets (Miss Hendrie's Workbook) + `_ +* `Making an Embroidered Pocket (Tea in a Teacup) + `_ +* `If they can't fit pockets in our clothes, we'll bring back POCKETS AS + FASHION (Bernadette Banners) + `_ +* `Linen pocket (Josefin Waltin spinner) + `_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5f034a Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7617443 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e10997 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4368721 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg @@ -0,0 +1,256 @@ + + + + + Pair of Pockets + + + + + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + Pair of Pockets + + 2018-07-04 + + + Elena ``of Valhalla'' + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Pair of Pockets + This square should be 10 cm on all sides to make B4 sized pockets,or 8.4 cm for an A4 sized one. + Embroider fabric to taste, keeping at least 1 cminside the outlineCut 2 of fabricIf embroidering, cut 2 of lining, lay on the back ofthe embroidered panels and treat as one.(Or cheat, and use sturdy prints.)Cut the opening as marked from the front panel.Lay the two panels with wrong sides together,sew all around 5 mm from the edge.Cover the raw edges of the sides, bottom andopening with tape or ribbon.Repeat for the second pocket.Cover the top edges of both pockets with a tapelong enough to go around your waist and be tied. + + + + + front opening + + + diff --git a/source/bibliography/index.rst b/source/bibliography/index.rst index cafdc6f..fd75ae4 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/index.rst +++ b/source/bibliography/index.rst @@ -14,3 +14,8 @@ Miscellaneous .. bibliography:: misc.bib :all: +Websites +======== + +.. bibliography:: web.bib + :all: diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 26a36fd..22ae67e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -20,3 +20,11 @@ year = {1896}, url = "https://archive.org/details/krl00001156", } + +@Book{2019:pocket + author = {Barbara Burman and Ariane Fennetaux}, + title = {The Pocket — A Hidden History of Women's Lives}, + publisher = {Yale University Press}, + year = {2019}, + url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL29481979M/Pocket", +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/web.bib b/source/bibliography/web.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ca93ae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/web.bib @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +@misc{2021:vampockets + author = {Victoria and Albert Museum}, + title = {Women's tie-on pockets}, + year = {2021}, + url = "https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/womens-tie-pockets", + note = "Accessed 2022-04-18", +} + diff --git a/source/conf.py b/source/conf.py index 09c46d8..60da271 100644 --- a/source/conf.py +++ b/source/conf.py @@ -83,4 +83,5 @@ latex_elements = { bibtex_bibfiles = [ "bibliography/drafting.bib", "bibliography/misc.bib", + "bibliography/web.bib", ] -- cgit v1.2.3 From 7a4da477afcf2a7bfeffd9421e22035e5bb6959a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 2 May 2022 16:52:55 +0200 Subject: New sewing book --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 ++++++++ 1 file changed, 8 insertions(+) (limited to 'source/bibliography') diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 22ae67e..f7276a8 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -28,3 +28,11 @@ year = {2019}, url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL29481979M/Pocket", } + +@Book{1916:school + author = {Burton, Ida Robinson and Burton, Myron Garfield}, + title = {School sewing based on home problems}, + publisher = {Muncie, Ind., Vocational Supply Company}, + year = {1916}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/schoolsewingbase00burt", +} -- cgit v1.2.3 From fe5649c2d94109b156a9ae937bf61f97597e871c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2022 07:52:41 +0200 Subject: New patterns: apron and sleevelets. --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 + .../01-cutting_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 928297 bytes .../02-aligning_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1494359 bytes .../03-felled_hem_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1494795 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1710161 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1184381 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1394033 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1153339 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1311421 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1317840 bytes .../11-attaching_bib.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1083004 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1103487 bytes .../20-button_stand.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1095280 bytes .../21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1039805 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1555633 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1097679 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 974781 bytes .../cutting_pattern.svg | 207 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst | 183 ++++++++++++++++++ source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst | 11 ++ .../accessories/sleevelets/index.rst | 111 +++++++++++ .../sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val | 104 +++++++++++ source/historical_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + 23 files changed, 625 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/11-attaching_bib.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/20-button_stand.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val (limited to 'source/bibliography') diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index f7276a8..a4b894c 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -36,3 +36,11 @@ year = {1916}, url = "https://archive.org/details/schoolsewingbase00burt", } + +@Book{1892:home + author = {Myers, Annie E}, + title = {Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing}, + publisher = {Chicago, C.H. Sergel & company}, + year = {1892}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/homedressmakingc00myer", +} diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4f65dc Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d71ef1 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4df1d5 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0f3866e Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc466a0 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4fcfd79 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d0e03e9 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1be156f Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e92f6ed Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/11-attaching_bib.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/11-attaching_bib.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cfbbd4f Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/11-attaching_bib.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b80b618 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/20-button_stand.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/20-button_stand.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5873de8 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/20-button_stand.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..979129c Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..77d9323 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..647eb5d Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c66d795 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4ea0936 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg @@ -0,0 +1,207 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + front + side + side + band + band + bib + bib + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb7cf5e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,183 @@ +Full Apron with Bib from Modern Fabric +====================================== + +.. figure:: apron.jpg + :align: center + +This apron is inspired on the instructions from :cite:`1892:home` (pag +137) from 1892, adapted for modern, double-width fabric. + +The original instructions claimed that the apron without a bib could be +sewn in one hour by machine, and even with the bib and a pocket it is a +quick and easy project. + +The adaptation kept the selvedges on the sides, and most of the +construction methods, but significantly changed the original +proportions: the side gores are half as wide, their selvedge length is a +bit shorter and the band is shorter and narrower. The hem in these +instructions is also much narrower, but that can be easily changed back +to the recommended 8 cm. + +For cutting efficiency there is also some piecing, most notably on the +bib, which probably wouldn't have been needed, but then *piecing is +period, period*. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~1 m washable fabric ~150 cm wide. + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good for a serviceable working apron; the original instructions +recommended gingham. The pattern requires a fabric that has no right or +wrong side, as half of the bib will have to show the wrong side. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* tape for ties or two buttons and button twist thread; +* 2 safety pins. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure the desired lenght of the apron, add 5 cm for the hem, cut a +rectangle of fabric of that length, selvedge to selvedge, on the straigh +grain (either by ripping or cutting on a thread). + +.. figure:: cutting_pattern.svg + :align: center + +Cut on the straight grain two panels on the sides, each one quarter of +the width of the fabric, leaving a center panel that is twice as wide. + +.. figure:: 01-cutting_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Now cut two side gores such that the diagonal is as long as the length +of the center panel; for a 100 cm long panel this will be a bit more +than 90 cm, leaving a rectangle a bit less than 10 cm high for the band. + +Decide how high you want the bib to be, and cut two trapeziums from the +remaining triangles such that when sewn together they will form a +square with that side. + +From the remaining fabric you'll cut a base for buttons and a pocket. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 02-aligning_gores.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-felled_hem_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Align the bias edge of a side panel at half the sewing allowance +distance from the edge of the front panel, sew, press towards the side +panel, fold down the front panel edge and topstitch. Repeat on the other +side. + +.. figure:: 04-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the bottom edge: fold it down by 2 cm twice, rounding the corners, +topstitch. The side edges won't need an hem because they use the +selvedge. + +.. figure:: 05-bands.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the a band piece in half lengthwise, sew the two short edges without +selvedge and press open; repeat for the other band piece. + + +.. figure:: 06-gathers.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 07-sandwich.jpg + :align: center + + +Run two rows of gathering stitches at the top of the apron, gather it to +46 cm; sandwich it between the two bands, centered on them, and sew +from one selvedge to the other of the band. +Press the allowances up. + +.. figure:: 09-bib.jpg + :align: center + +Align the two bias edges of the bib at half an allowance of distance +from each other, sew, press towards the short side, fold down the long +allowance and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 10-bib_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top and sides of the bib with a 1 cm hem with mitered corners. + + +.. figure:: 11-attaching_bib.jpg + :align: center + +Put the right side of the bib centered on the right side of the front +band, sew, press towards the band all allowances, including the ones to +the side of the band. + +.. figure:: 12-band.jpg + :align: center + +Press also the back band, topstitch close to both borders of the band. + +Ties +^^^^ + +If you want to close the apron with ties, sew them to the ends of the +band, long enough to go around the waist and tie in front; finish the +ends. + +Button closure +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The band will probably be too short to go around the waist, so you will +have to make a small extension with two buttons. + +Make two buttonholes at the ends of the band. + +From the leftovers, cut a rectangle long enough to go from below one +buttonhole to the other one with the apron around the waist, plus sewing +allowance, and four time as high as the finished band. + +.. figure:: 20-button_stand.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it in half, then fold the allowances towards the center: you will +get a rectangle made of four layers of fabric, press. +Fold the ends in, press. + +Topstitch all around this rectangle, close to the border. + +.. figure:: 21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + +Add two buttons at the ends. + +Pocket +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 30-pocket.jpg + :align: center + +When you've finished adding parts to the apron, you can cut a pocket +from whatever leftovers you still have, hem all sides with a 1 cm hem, +and topstitch to the front of the apron. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: apron_front.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..93946fa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +************* + Accessories +************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + 1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index + sleevelets/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b06d6d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,111 @@ +Sleevelets +========== + +.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg + :align: center + +Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on +:cite:`1916:school` from 1916. + +They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project, +suitable for beginners. + +This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at +the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in +the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed +and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed. +In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic +anyway. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~35 cm washable fabric + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the +kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 2 small buttons; +* 60–70 cm elastic (optional). + +Pattern +------- + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the +following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables: + +``#elbow_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm; +``#wrist_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the + ``#elbow_width``; +``#length`` + length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the + original instructions this was 30 cm; +``#cuff_circ`` + the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm; +``#cuff_height`` + height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure. + +Instructions +------------ + +Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut +two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material +doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce +waste. + +From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as +the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and +sew all around with a 2 mm allowance. Carefully cut the slit, turn the +facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all +sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by +machine or hemstitch by hand. + +Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with +wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside +out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance. +Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to +press in the opposite direction. + +Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand. + +.. note:: + + If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long + enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly. + +With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and +sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the +rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1 +cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and +press towards the cuff. Fold the other allowance of the cuff and +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances. + +Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to +the other end. + +Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where +they don't interfere with the use of the hands. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f5cd1a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val @@ -0,0 +1,104 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Sleevelet after School Sewing based on Home Problems by Burton & Burton, p. 73 + + Sleevelet + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 86dae5a..d67d4c7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,3 +11,4 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + accessories/index -- cgit v1.2.3