From bcf38f3275e2b414a01ea380450d8b85e6a29f73 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2022 23:24:11 +0200 Subject: A Pair of Pockets, initial instructions. --- source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst | 145 ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 145 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst (limited to 'source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst') diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0630697 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Pair of Pockets +=============== + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg + :align: center + +In the 18th and parts of the 19th century, pockets for women were an +accessory not attached to any garment, but tied around the waist and +worn under the skirt (the more modest and privacy-respecting way) or on +top of it (for convenience, usually done just by the working classes). + +Beside being significantly bigger than what is usually found in modern +womenswear clothing (but not necessarily the ones found in the +ones from the 19th century), they have the advantage of not letting the +weight of the contents hang from the fabric of a garment, and thus they +are a good match to ligtweight skirts or ones made from knit fabric. + +Or, since it's the 2020s and there is no sense of decency anymore :D one +can wear them on top of a pair of jeans, visible to anybody. + +Historical pockets were quite diverse: a good overview of their history +is in :cite:`2019:pocket` (or a very short version in +:cite:`2021:vampockets`), and an internet search will get you lots of +historical examples to reproduce or take inspiration from, as well as +people who made their own pockets and publish instructions, some of +which are listed in the :ref:`pockets_see_also` section. + +This is just one way to make a pair of pockets which works and is easy +enough to do; if you are so inclined the rabbit hole of historical +construction methods can offer you many hours of research and making. + +I sew most of my pockets by hand, as it is a quick and easy project, +but machine sewing is also an option, especially for more modern +variants. To sew by machine, lockstitch where the instructions say to +backstitch, and topstitch instead of hem/applique-stitching. + +Materials +--------- + +* Fabric: about 40 cm of strong cotton or linen; +* optional, about 40 cm of dense cotton or linen for a lining; +* 2.4 m edge binding (bias or straight); +* 1.5 m tape; +* sewing thread. + +This is of course a great way to use scraps and leftovers, and if you +don't have enough fabric to make a pair there are plenty of historical +examples of single pockets mounted on a tape of their own. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for these pockets is a vaguely pear shaped bag with a slit +in the top half of the front, often more than 40 cm deep. If you're not +reproducing an existing pocket you may want to download my own pattern, +which has the width and height of a B4 sheet and is on the smaller end +of typical historical sizes: + +:download:`pockets_B4.svg` + SVG source, can be scaled to taste; +:download:`pockets_B4-A4.pdf` + PDF, tiled on two A4 sheet; + +Instructions +------------ + +If you want to make embroidered pockets it's easiest to do on the fabric +before cutting it: mark the outline and slit of the pocket and embroider +leaving a clear space around those markings of half the width of your +binding. + +Cut the pattern four times in your fabric. If you need to protect the +back of the fabric (e.g. because it is embroidered and the contents may +catch on it) also cut the pattern four times in lining. + +If using a lining, lay it on the wrong side of each panel, baste it and +from now on treat as one. + +Cut the slit on two of the panels, bind both sides. + +If your binding has raw edges, align one raw edge of the binding to the +raw edge of the slit, right sides together, backstitch on the fold of +the binding, press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. + +If your binding is a tape with finished edges, fold it in half, pin it +over the raw edge of the slit, applique stitch on the right side and +then hemstitch the wrong side. + +Cut four small patches from the scraps of fabric, fold their edges +towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on both sides +to reinforce the weak point, applique stitching to the rigth side and +hemstitching to the wrong. + +Put one panel with a slit on top of a panel with no slit, wrong sides +together, backstitch all around it at 5 mm from the edge. + +Bind the side and bottom edges using the same tecnique used for the +slit. + +Cut a piece of tape long enough to go around the waist and be tied, pin +the top edge of the two pockets on top of it so that they are +symmetrical and lie at the right position for the slits in your skirts. + +.. tip:: + If you're making more than one pair of pockets, put them at different + distances from the front, so that you can choose the ones that fit + better with the line of each skirt you're wearing. + +Hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom edge of the tape. + +Put another piece of tape on top of just the front of each pocket, +folding down the raw edges, applique stitch it to the pocket and to the +tape at the sides; whipstitch the two tapes at the top, enclosing the +raw edge of the pocket. + +Fold down the ends of the long tape, hemstitch them down to finish even +these raw edges. + +Your pair of pockets is done! + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg + :align: center + +.. _pockets_see_also: + +See Also +-------- + +In the 2020s, pockets are IN, at least in the online sewing community: +this is a small selection of people who made their own pockets. + +* `Make your own Pocket (Victoria and Albert Museum) + `_ +* `Pair of pockets (Miss Hendrie's Workbook) + `_ +* `Making an Embroidered Pocket (Tea in a Teacup) + `_ +* `If they can't fit pockets in our clothes, we'll bring back POCKETS AS + FASHION (Bernadette Banners) + `_ +* `Linen pocket (Josefin Waltin spinner) + `_ -- cgit v1.2.3