From fe5649c2d94109b156a9ae937bf61f97597e871c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2022 07:52:41 +0200 Subject: New patterns: apron and sleevelets. --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 + .../01-cutting_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 928297 bytes .../02-aligning_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1494359 bytes .../03-felled_hem_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1494795 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1710161 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1184381 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1394033 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1153339 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1311421 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1317840 bytes .../11-attaching_bib.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1083004 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1103487 bytes .../20-button_stand.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1095280 bytes .../21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1039805 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1555633 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1097679 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 974781 bytes .../cutting_pattern.svg | 207 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst | 183 ++++++++++++++++++ source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst | 11 ++ .../accessories/sleevelets/index.rst | 111 +++++++++++ .../sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val | 104 +++++++++++ source/historical_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + 23 files changed, 625 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/11-attaching_bib.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/20-button_stand.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index f7276a8..a4b894c 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -36,3 +36,11 @@ year = {1916}, url = "https://archive.org/details/schoolsewingbase00burt", } + +@Book{1892:home + author = {Myers, Annie E}, + title = {Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing}, + publisher = {Chicago, C.H. Sergel & company}, + year = {1892}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/homedressmakingc00myer", +} diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4f65dc Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d71ef1 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg 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b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4ea0936 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg @@ -0,0 +1,207 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + front + side + side + band + band + bib + bib + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb7cf5e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,183 @@ +Full Apron with Bib from Modern Fabric +====================================== + +.. figure:: apron.jpg + :align: center + +This apron is inspired on the instructions from :cite:`1892:home` (pag +137) from 1892, adapted for modern, double-width fabric. + +The original instructions claimed that the apron without a bib could be +sewn in one hour by machine, and even with the bib and a pocket it is a +quick and easy project. + +The adaptation kept the selvedges on the sides, and most of the +construction methods, but significantly changed the original +proportions: the side gores are half as wide, their selvedge length is a +bit shorter and the band is shorter and narrower. The hem in these +instructions is also much narrower, but that can be easily changed back +to the recommended 8 cm. + +For cutting efficiency there is also some piecing, most notably on the +bib, which probably wouldn't have been needed, but then *piecing is +period, period*. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~1 m washable fabric ~150 cm wide. + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good for a serviceable working apron; the original instructions +recommended gingham. The pattern requires a fabric that has no right or +wrong side, as half of the bib will have to show the wrong side. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* tape for ties or two buttons and button twist thread; +* 2 safety pins. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure the desired lenght of the apron, add 5 cm for the hem, cut a +rectangle of fabric of that length, selvedge to selvedge, on the straigh +grain (either by ripping or cutting on a thread). + +.. figure:: cutting_pattern.svg + :align: center + +Cut on the straight grain two panels on the sides, each one quarter of +the width of the fabric, leaving a center panel that is twice as wide. + +.. figure:: 01-cutting_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Now cut two side gores such that the diagonal is as long as the length +of the center panel; for a 100 cm long panel this will be a bit more +than 90 cm, leaving a rectangle a bit less than 10 cm high for the band. + +Decide how high you want the bib to be, and cut two trapeziums from the +remaining triangles such that when sewn together they will form a +square with that side. + +From the remaining fabric you'll cut a base for buttons and a pocket. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 02-aligning_gores.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-felled_hem_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Align the bias edge of a side panel at half the sewing allowance +distance from the edge of the front panel, sew, press towards the side +panel, fold down the front panel edge and topstitch. Repeat on the other +side. + +.. figure:: 04-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the bottom edge: fold it down by 2 cm twice, rounding the corners, +topstitch. The side edges won't need an hem because they use the +selvedge. + +.. figure:: 05-bands.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the a band piece in half lengthwise, sew the two short edges without +selvedge and press open; repeat for the other band piece. + + +.. figure:: 06-gathers.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 07-sandwich.jpg + :align: center + + +Run two rows of gathering stitches at the top of the apron, gather it to +46 cm; sandwich it between the two bands, centered on them, and sew +from one selvedge to the other of the band. +Press the allowances up. + +.. figure:: 09-bib.jpg + :align: center + +Align the two bias edges of the bib at half an allowance of distance +from each other, sew, press towards the short side, fold down the long +allowance and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 10-bib_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top and sides of the bib with a 1 cm hem with mitered corners. + + +.. figure:: 11-attaching_bib.jpg + :align: center + +Put the right side of the bib centered on the right side of the front +band, sew, press towards the band all allowances, including the ones to +the side of the band. + +.. figure:: 12-band.jpg + :align: center + +Press also the back band, topstitch close to both borders of the band. + +Ties +^^^^ + +If you want to close the apron with ties, sew them to the ends of the +band, long enough to go around the waist and tie in front; finish the +ends. + +Button closure +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The band will probably be too short to go around the waist, so you will +have to make a small extension with two buttons. + +Make two buttonholes at the ends of the band. + +From the leftovers, cut a rectangle long enough to go from below one +buttonhole to the other one with the apron around the waist, plus sewing +allowance, and four time as high as the finished band. + +.. figure:: 20-button_stand.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it in half, then fold the allowances towards the center: you will +get a rectangle made of four layers of fabric, press. +Fold the ends in, press. + +Topstitch all around this rectangle, close to the border. + +.. figure:: 21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + +Add two buttons at the ends. + +Pocket +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 30-pocket.jpg + :align: center + +When you've finished adding parts to the apron, you can cut a pocket +from whatever leftovers you still have, hem all sides with a 1 cm hem, +and topstitch to the front of the apron. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: apron_front.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..93946fa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +************* + Accessories +************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + 1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index + sleevelets/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b06d6d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,111 @@ +Sleevelets +========== + +.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg + :align: center + +Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on +:cite:`1916:school` from 1916. + +They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project, +suitable for beginners. + +This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at +the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in +the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed +and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed. +In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic +anyway. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~35 cm washable fabric + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the +kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 2 small buttons; +* 60–70 cm elastic (optional). + +Pattern +------- + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the +following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables: + +``#elbow_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm; +``#wrist_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the + ``#elbow_width``; +``#length`` + length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the + original instructions this was 30 cm; +``#cuff_circ`` + the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm; +``#cuff_height`` + height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure. + +Instructions +------------ + +Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut +two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material +doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce +waste. + +From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as +the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and +sew all around with a 2 mm allowance. Carefully cut the slit, turn the +facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all +sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by +machine or hemstitch by hand. + +Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with +wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside +out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance. +Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to +press in the opposite direction. + +Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand. + +.. note:: + + If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long + enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly. + +With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and +sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the +rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1 +cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and +press towards the cuff. Fold the other allowance of the cuff and +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances. + +Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to +the other end. + +Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where +they don't interfere with the use of the hands. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f5cd1a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val @@ -0,0 +1,104 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Sleevelet after School Sewing based on Home Problems by Burton & Burton, p. 73 + + Sleevelet + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 86dae5a..d67d4c7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,3 +11,4 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + accessories/index -- cgit v1.2.3